What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Like 80 bucks? or 60?

Delrin is WAY harder than Poly is all. If you solid mount the lowers then you want to eliminate play in the bushings. This is because the bolts will just be straight, they don't need to twist bushings as the alignment will be done with the Uppers.


You can NOT solid mount the lower without a heim upper adjustable UCA. As in the mounts are heim joints that screw in and out. This is because if you solid mount the lowers and use a standard UCA you have literally not way to adjust for an alignment.

So no Heim UCAs, No solid lowers.

@austinmtb is going through this process now. This is also a very popular mod on 2nd gens more so than 1sts. He is making his own UCAs I think and he got Derlin bushings from somewhere for his Solos.


Solo is way understaffed right now. but they are busting ass as best they can. It took a while but they go to it. Think Carl told me they were operating at 25% staff...

YES! it is one of my biggest complaints. my LT kit LCAs have them. Not sure why these don't. I was planning on doing it but I ran out of time and just had to get it back together. The thickness of the wall for the mounts though is HUGE. Like twice as thick as my LT kit ones. So maybe a zert won't clear.

 

Mine are permanently covered in cooked on dirt lol. Rust isn't really an issue where I'm at

 

Lucky you. No salt here, but it’s always humid and a chance of rain.

 

Ah thanks for the education ! Noob forever Any specific procedures on rinsing the strainer?

 

The 02 whines in first gear. I’ve noticed a lot of Tacoma’s do it with the a340. My 01 never did though

 

Has anyone seen a side by side or know the answer to whether the new gloss grey wheels (

$1,125 PTR20-35110-G4 (4)

PTR20-35110-G4) are lighter in color than the matte grey version? Or are they simply just a gloss version without the red TRD lettering?

 

Just rinse it reverse of the flow with some transmission fluid. There shouldn't be much of anything on it. You may see a grey haze on it that should pretty much go away once you rinse it.

 

Sweet thanks!

 

Tried to do some proactive maintenance and made things much worse. I noticed my clutch fluid was very dark a week ago and decided to do a flush. My flush involved putting new fluid in the reservoir and cracking the slave cylinder bleeder to drain into a 20oz bottle, I did this until the fluid ran clear. I believe I introduced air into the system and now I'm having trouble fully actuating the clutch to get out of gear.

[Edit]. After taking some videos, I've found that the slave cylinder does not consistently hold pressure. I can press the clutch pedal and on some attempts the slave cylinder stays extended, on others it slowly retracts and after a second or two the clutch is no longer disengaged. Does this sound like I still have air in the system, or do I have a failing slave cylinder?

 

Wok= Overlander, right?

 

I can feel my colon shaking from all that protein. Fuckin jelly man, enjoy it

 

So I noticed one of the studs on the output flange of my transfer case was loose. Splines are rounded on the stud and completely gone in the flange. I noticed my prerunner output flange uses nuts and bolts, can I just use those or should I get a new flange from toyota.

 

I would just order a new one from Toyota or aftermarket. Might need to get one with a larger spline as the id might have wallowed out on the output flange. You shouldn't need a new flange.

 

I ask about swapping to bolts because toyota does not seem to sell the studs by themselves

 

Just put a nut and bolt on it you wont die

 

I'd you have calipers you can take dimensions and purchase online. McMaster Carr is a good place to start.

 

For once I don't totally disagree with your half assed suggestions. If the hole on the flange isn't too wallowed out it shouldn't be a problem until he gets a new stud. But I wouldn't run it like that long term

 

What I find interesting is the 2wd driveshaft uses nuts and bolts but the 4wd uses studs.

 

He could take the stud 180 degrees away from it out and put the same nut and bolt there so whatever minute harmonic imbalance results is mitigated

I'm not wrong