Methods to prevent seized LCA hardware

We all know (or should know) that the LCA alignment hardware has a tendency to seize up with time, making alignments difficult. Removing the seized hardware involves cutting, swearing, and lots of money for OEM replacements. Is there a "best" way to stop this from happening?

The best option I can think of would probably be regular greasing of the hardware, but the lack of zerk fittings on the OEM LCAs makes this an extremely time-intensive and invasive regular maintenance task.

A simpler one-time option would be removing the alignment hardware and coating it with anti-seize. Makes perfect sense, but I have to wonder how long this fix would last.

An untested third option is applying some sort of permanent surface coating to the alignment hardware, preventing corrosion from causing the issue in the first place. I have no idea if this is feasible, nor do I know what type of surface coating should be used.

It's oh-dark-hundred and I'm spitballing ideas while half conscious. Let me know what you think. Hopefully @Crom chimes in with some of his maintenance expertise.

 

Blue loctite would be my choice. Counter intuitive perhaps but where the loctite is, water won't be and it's just medium strength so it won't be an issue for removal. I've used so much of that stuff, I absolutely love it. Most used place was u-joint strap bolts on dana axles (steel bolt/steel threads). There are a mind-blowing number of options for strength, temps, materials, time of application like after assembly before and dry, etc. Have a look through the catalog.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/about/our-brands/loctite.html

 

There's definitely value in applying fluids to displace water. My concern would be the viscosity of the Loctite. Won't it just run off (away from the needed location) in short order?

 

I'll be replacing my lower arms and all related hardware once I can access a lift (and a sawzall).
I'll be using anti-seize on the part that goes into the sleeve on the bushing.

 

Ideally it's before assembly but there are some like green that go on after assembly and it creeps up the threads. (I think it's green.)

I edited that into the original post, I didn't think you'd be replying that fast at 530am on a Saturday, haha.

On the spacer tubes, etc i agree with havoc. Some kind of antiseize that's safe for the rubber or poly, whatever your bushings are.

 

Understood. I was planning on yanking all my LCA hardware out to make sure the application is heavy and comprehensive.

Yeah, I'm in the process of force-resetting my sleep cycle. Coming off nights and back to days. This suuucks.

 

I probably went about 5 or 6 years without an alignment after the one I had done in which a liberal amount of anti-seize was applied. Had an alignment done about 6 months ago and they said nothing was seized. So it lasts at least that long w/o having to reapply. Your experiences may vary based on conditions though.

 

I used anti seize on everything but the threads

 

It seems like anti-seize is the consensus. Unless someone else chimes in with a better idea - if you have one, please do - I’ll be going the same route.

 

I use spray anti seize and apply a light coat when I replace LCA and UCA bolts.

It's not the threads its the bolt seizing to the sleeve inside the bushing thats the problem.

 

Ditch the cam bolts altogether.

https://www.polyperformance.com/pol...5-tacoma-03-09-4runner-gx470-07-09-fj-cruiser

 

When I replaced my LCAs I used marine grease and sprayed everything with fluid film. A few winters later and it’s all still removable.

 

Well this is new. I'm gonna do some research.

*EDIT*
Did some research and asked some knowledgeable people. Turns out these wouldn't really work for me. If they had more adjustability, they would be perfect. Tires are expensive, so I'm gonna do everything I can to keep mine in serviceable condition for a long time. I was told that OEM hardware with anti-seize is still my best option, so that's what I'm gonna go with.

 

I used grease when I replaced mine a few years ago. I applied it liberally to the bolts and sleeves. I don't know if it's still working because I haven't checked them but I'd bet my next paycheck it is.
In my opinion, grease or anti-seize would work. I tend to think the grease would be less prone to wash out but that's just a guess.
I did have to re-torque my hardware a couple of times and I check it every few months. It's been solid for the last year or so.

 

Yeah, it’s not the answer for everyone. Works great for me. I’ll never need to pay for an alignment, I can adjust the toe myself. I did have to use a sawzall to get the OEM cam bolts out, they were seized.

 

Good recommendations here. I have one at the very far end of the spectrum, move below the rust belt/down south just kidding...

 

I bought greasable bolts like these.

$33 MOOG K100128 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HCQ5NYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

These are the same parts that come with Moog LCAs, right? I have read that the hardware has a tendency to wallow out or break, losing its ability to adjust.