Long Travel BS Thread

I just grabbed this a few weeks ago gonna use it for the first time this weekend.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-r...ss-chuck-8-CHUCK-FILL-TOOL-VALVE/153933894202

 

https://www.schmidtyracing.com/nitrogen-regulator-kits-s/1871.htm
Been eyeing up a couple of these- Seem to be the only ones i can find that the regulators look considerably high quality/have a name brand
Input?

 

I was looking at those but cheaped out. The added accuracy is a plus but imho not super necessary for what the majority of us in here are doing.

 

That's the exact debate i'm having in my head now. Most of me wants quality, part of me knows there's a big chance i only use this once a year at most and the price ain't worth it. Post an update when you try yours!

 

If I don’t then ask again next weekend after I take the truck out again. If it’s way inaccurate then I’ll notice when beating on the truck again next weekend

 

i buy from smidty all the time good stuff. I deal with shock rebuilds and nitrogen refills at home all the time. If its a good quality guage on the regulator it will be okay, but if you cheap out on it or drop it it wont be accurate. I was getting almosr 50 psi off with a cheap regulator. Which is actually fine, in the end just also buy a No loss fill tool with guage! I use the king shocks one. That way you get correct pressures with no loss.

 

I just bought a regulator and hose and bottle from my local welding supply. If i ever have an issue i know they will warranty it no problem.

 

This is my setup for nitrogen filling. Regulator doesn't matter too much if you have a good fill tool.

 

Those of you that have glass bedsides, how did you widen your rear stance to match it better? Would 1.25" spacers look ok, or do you get new wheels with a different backspace/offset? Looking into rear glass since I destroyed my passenger bedside, but it would look pretty goofy with stock trd pro wheels. I mainly want the glass for the rise, not the bulge, but McNeil is the only one I can find that has 2", but they dont appear to have any rise. Figured the LT guys would have the most glass experience. Also, can you reinstall the bed rails and use a shell with glass?

Most guys just run 1.5-1.25 spacers to get close to their front track width and you can easily trim fiberglass before it’s painted if you want to get more room to stuff 35-37’s. FYI legit prerunning / race trucks have glass that goes way out past their rear wheels. Stuffing tires is way easier that way. So you’d be going +2 on all for corners? Wheel spacers and 12.5” tires would make that work if you want a similar factory look. Quote- @Dalandser

I'm not going lt, just love the fiberglass look and ability to fit bigger tires easier, plus no rust. Since I have no plans on jumping the truck I guess the shell should be ok. Because I do trails, I want to try to keep the width thinner, but +2 shouldn't be much of an issue. Unless anyone else makes +2" bedsides, I guess I'll trim McNeil's bedsides. I just want a good rise, if only somebody made 2" flare 4" rise that'd be perfect. For now I'm just looking at doing bedsides, but yeah I'll eventually get to swapping the front fenders. A tree pushed glass up to the top of the mod list today, so trying to keep it simple for now.

 

Pretty much what @Dalandser said.
I have rear 4” glass, with no spacers. 4.75” backspacing wheels though. They are sucked in to the wheel wells a bit, but I like that look.

I don’t think anyone else makes 2” glass besides McNeil.

You can install the bed rails, goes back on like oem.

I’d be a little wary of a shell causing the bedsides to crack over time, as they aren’t designed to support weight.
But people do run them with glass from time to time.
You might have to trim a little bit of the shell / glass to get a oem fit - although I think the McNeil 2” ones have an oem like shape moulded on top, so they might work better than the flat or trophy style bulge that other fenders have.

 

Good to know, thanks for the info. Chances are if I got the +2 glass I'd end up cutting it to fit 35s and have to add some brackets inside. When I do eventually step up tire size I'll also look into different wheels. Good to know about the shell though. I thought the McNeils looked like they had an oem shaped riser for a shell, I was just concerned about the rails. Looking at a few other threads it seems like as long as I'm not thrashing on the truck a cap should be ok. I've got bed stiffeners on the way, and I can always get some brackets made up inside for strength and mounting fender liners. Do you have to mess with the fill neck when getting bulged bedsides? On McNeils website it says "For gas filler location Possible extension of the stock filler hoses is needed." Did you guys have to do any work to that?

 

If anyone’s looking for a brand new 96-04 camburg LT kit i’ll be listing mine soon for $2700. found a nice f100 for sale i’m going to build instead

 

@Prayn4surf

 

Let's see this F100!

 

just need to sell this darn kit so i have the cash to get it

 

It’s a raptor, but check out this bump stop design by camburg. I hadn’t seen it before and thought it was a bit outside the box, although I doubt it’s superior to bumping off the upper arm.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDtbV9jBgEV/?igshid=q4co6vytkjsw

 

The idea here is leverage and using the motion ratio to your advantage. This design allows them to push the bump pad further out on the lower arm, therefore engaging later on in the travel. It's a pretty cool idea IMO.

That concept is the primary reason I'm not for hydros on the front of an IFS truck like ours (unless you're bumping off the upper arm, etc.) If you put a 2" bump our a Tacoma and you've only got 3" of up travel at ride height on an MT setup (5" stroke shock + 60%) or 4.5" on an LT then you're engaging the bump EARLY in the travel. With this design they can push the bump zone further out on the arm so it engages in that very last bit of travel where it's supposed to be. This is all theory though as you have other variables to consider.

 

Same place as my kit - the pivot looks sexy

 

Pics of the kit?

 

this is the only pic i have, but i can open the box up and take more if you want