Loose Spark Plug From The Factory

My old boss was a die hard GM guy and was the same way. But you’d have to be pretty dumb to be a die hard GM guy anyways lol

 

Same. I never break out the torque wrench either. Although I did cross thread one on a Silverado once when I was 16.

 

only 1 firing correctly

2 are burnt

2 are MISfiring

as I mentioned b4 i know NOT the respective cylinders they were removed from
while they are laid out in a row...............may Not correspond with the cylinders they came out of

was watching a race mechanic rebuild a 7second (F A S T ! )supra the other day
he explained what was going on Inside the engine at teardown

actually ' reading ' various components b4 failure

those plugs as shown are Not in good shape................
dont mind expanding on the matter
tho i wont get into a pissin contest

the photoz speak for themselves

good luck

 

With a $20 HF torque wrench, I embarrassed a guy who said that he wrenches on hydros and had a calibrated arm. Dood was struggling with warped rotors and I told him that torquing the lugs would fix him up. He didn't believe me but gave it a shot with my wrench. He might have been a bit red faced bringing the wrench back to me.

They're too easy to use and have saved me thousands in breakage and frustration. The cheap digi torque adapters are even better for me.

 

Yeah no way was I reusing them. That’s like reusing a condom. I’ll be interested to see the difference with the OVTune and properly torqued down. It already feels a lot better on the old gluteus maximus dyno

 

Nah, as long as you're not going full gorilla with a breaker you're probably in the neighborhood anyway. I was doing it for the curiosity to see if they actually tightened them at all. I don't torque me small engine plugs, life is too short.

 

I use torque sticks on the lug nuts and then have a dedicated budget torque wrench for lug nuts. No way am I using my $500 digital Snap-On one for every lug nut I remove.

 

if i was out in the hinterlands

needed to get moving to get home /back to civilization
that mcgyver/ country boy / Boy Scout attitude can work

most would avoid leaks .......loss .........breaks

all the snap on & various goodies still might not get U home

yet if one wants to avoid serious negative scenarios
consistent procedures help

me riding with U 1st person anecdotal is gospel
hope we dont have to walk out

 

Yeah. I'd never use an expensive wrench to break bolts free. I just know that torque tools have saved my bacon, esp on aluminum threads.

 

2 have ' Black ' deposits = Misfires

2 are ' Burnt ' running excessively hot

i ask which ONE (1) shows good health ???

new plugs in after 10000miles id luv to see what they look like

are U familiar with ' Indexing '

 

^^^ See, I knew someone would have something to say about it. It's a spark plug on a truck not a rocket ship. Even if I installed them 10ft/lbs higher, it's a huge improvement over the Toyota factory.

 

When shifting from P to R, R to D and vice versa, especially when cold, did yours clunk a bit? I was actually going to post a question on this but as a newbie was probably going to get a lot of "it's normal for a truck". Engaging Drive after reversing has a distinguishable clunk vs going from Park directly to Drive after being warmed up. Just curious if this is "normal truck thing" or something to look into like ATF fluid, diff fluid... etc. And yes, I was going to bring it up to the dealer at the 5k but wanted to confirm if/when they tell me "it's normal" speech.

Edit: I should add i have absolutely no low atf symptoms like slipping, downshifting or good engagement. Monitored atf Temps and they stay below 200. I have not checked the level.

 

Yes I was getting that clunk and it was a lot better after changing the fluids, remarkably better surprisingly. I went to the dealer to buy the fluid and they actually told me they don't use OEM toyota fluid, they said they use Mobil 1 out of a 55gal drum. You should buy the OEM fluid, the crush washers, and do it yourself. It's very easy and it's the only way you’ll be certain that you’re getting OEM fluid. Make sure you can get the fill plug out before draining it!

 

I would also check the transmission fluid level, I flushed mine before replacing the spark plugs with a $20 oil transfer pump I got on ebay, it worked like a charm.

- I put 11.2 quarts of water into a 5 gallon bucket and marked that level on the bucket so I knew when the full system amount had drained.
- I disconnected the return line from the transmission cooler, put a hose on it and ran it into that 5 gallon bucket.
- I put 14 quarts into a brand new 5 gallon container like this: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...VTtbACh2b4wH_EAQYASABEgKnGvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
- I ran a hose from that container to the oil transfer pump and a hose from the other side of the transfer pump to the other side of the transmission cooler line that I previously disconnected.
- I hooked the pump to my jump box for power. This is the pump I used: https://www.ebay.com/i/392618568949?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=392618568949&targetid=930621147540&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9005173&poi=&campaignid=10459991409&mkgroupid=100467641501&rlsatarget=aud-622027676388%3Apla-930621147540&abcId=2146000&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2-X98smR6wIVBdvACh1OZAwHEAQYASABEgKifPD_BwE
- I had a buddy start the truck and slowly run it through the gears while I ran the pump, putting new fluid into the tranny as it was emptying into the bucket.
- Once the fluid level reached the mark, I let it run for a short while longer.
- I then pumped the remaining 1-2 quarts into the fill plug on the side of the transmission.
- I locked the transmission thermostat open with a 1/16 drill bit
- I put the truck into "transmission fluid level check mode" and waited for the "D" indicator to come on.
- As soon as it came on, I got under the truck and opened the plug for the level indicating tube (or whatever its called), the one that's removed with a hex drive allen head.
- The excess fluid poured out and once it slowed to a trickle, I replaced the plug.
- Verified the "D" indicator was still on indicating the fluid wasn't outside of the "temp level check range".

If you only need to check yours, buy a couple quarts of ATF and do the last 6 steps I mentioned for the flush. The level check sounds like a pain in the ass, but if you're just checking it, it's not that hard.

 

This is the transfer case fluid I used (if you don't spill any, you only need one). https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-p...MIgKiBq8iR6wIVD77ACh3LaQoiEAQYAiABEgLLUvD_BwE

This is the differential fluid I used. https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-p...al-gear-oil-lt-gl-5-75w-85-1-liter-0888502506

 

I am in the same boat.

 

So what do you think ended up making the biggest difference: ATF, diff or transfer? I'm only just over 1k so not near servicing any of these. If anything, I would think it would be the ATF. If it's low on fluid, it's probably very close to what should be so thinking of just asking dealer to check the level (actually crack it open). Then again, I have absolutely no basis of comparison.

 

The biggest difference was the transfer case and diff fluid by a long shot. I changed the diffs and t-case fluid at the same time, I don’t know which was causing the clunk. The ATF didn’t make a difference at all for gear selecting at a stop, it only made a slight improvement in the smoothness of down/up shifting.

I’ve heard A LOT of reports of these trucks coming low on ATF from the factory. Mine was about 1-1.5 quarts low. I’ve also heard a few reports of low diff fluid from the factory. I would mention it to the dealer the next time you go in and sternly mention that you want the fluid levels visually checked for your transmission, differentials, and transfer case. For the price of these trucks, it’s the least they can do, especially considering their shitty QC track record. They can apparently check the transmission with Techstream, but it’s not that accurate, it’s more of a ball park measurement. Tip the technician $20 BEFORE he works on the truck and I can almost guarantee you that he will physically crack every plug open and check the fluid levels.

 

You usually won’t see the technician so put $20 in an envelope with a note that says “take good care of her and lunch is on me”. I’m telling you, it works every time.

 

Finally! Some forum members with some common sense! Everyone here would torque spec their own nuts if they could.