Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

many, many years ago when I was a simple labourer, I was sent around a jobsite asking everyone where the skyhook was.
No one ever told me.
I'm still looking for one

 

How about the board stretcher ?

 

box of toe nails

 

In the grocery biz it was the 'shelf stretcher'.

 

Managed to achieve the goal for today of getting all 6 bottom chord timbers up on the wall plates



tomorrow I'll cut out the plates running through the beam pockets , and start installing the timbers

 

That kinda makes me wanna vomit.

 

On the flight line: prop wash, fallopian tube cutter, ..... my mind is failing me on others.

 

jet keys
i D 10-t form
Exhaust samples

 

carpenters will try to nail anything that's (old school) talk .
carpenters of this generation use a screw gun

 

In the oilfield, newbies are sent to the company man to ask for the key to the V door. (V door is where the drill pipe rides up to the derrick)

 

Impressive erection...I know.

 

So today I ran a string line on the exterior wall on the side that has the covered storage overhang and braced that wall straight down to my concrete columns , then I cut out the top plate I had run through the beam pockets and prepped the beam pockets for the timbers .

All my timbers are 1" short of the exterior width of the building on each side (ie 22' wide building plate to plate , timbers are 21' 10") , this allows me to install a piece of 1" XPS styrofoam between the plywood and timbers while still allowing for 4 1/2" of bearing .

This is to reduce the thermal bridging in this area and give me a way to have a continuous air barrier behind the timber interruption of the future interior air and vapour barrier .

Not to get too Matt Risinger , but wood is R-1 / inch , so if the timbers filled the whole 5 1/2" deep beam pocket cavity (2x6) , the R value would be R 5.5 . XPS styrofoam is R-5 / inch so I almost double the effective R value there to R 9.5 (4 1/2" wood + 1" XPS) .

The XPS is an air barrier so by taping in the seams of the cavity and the XPS , the insulator will be able to caulk the interior air / vapour barrier to the exposed tape edges and I will effectively have the air barrier continuous around the timber ends .




1 bottom chord timber of each pair is installed and screwed into the framing which is now setting the width of the building to the 22' mark



Tomorrow I'll install the timber posts and lift the timber rafters up onto the top side of the crossing beams as I need to disassemble my lifting towers in order to install the 3 ply 2x12 structural ridge beam

 

I love it when you go all Matt Risinger.

 

I've started watching Matt a bit, is he a good contractor to watch? Does he know his stuff?

also, when I see pics posted on forums, I like to look at the other stuff in the pic and I thought, "Cool he's got a Tacoma!" ... then I remembered what forum I'm on... doh!

 

great for more advanced / building science stuff

 

got any recommendations for a serious renovation, so I don't screw it up. I'm starting a 1920's home tearing it down to studs. Mostly concerned with proper insulation (fibreglass and blown) and vapour barrier.
Thanks

 

Lumber prices are bananas right now

Is it a permitted job ?

 

it might be. I want to take it on solo, but the smarter people in the house want to hire people

 

be aware that permits for new homes in BC require a Licensed Residential Builder or an Owner Builder exemption that entails a paid course and test . If a renovation is substantial enough , ie gutted to studs / structural changes / wiring / plumbing etc , it can be deemed a new building and thus kicks in the requirement for licensing so I would suggest asking your local building department

 

well... now I know why Bob hates you. You're a real downer.