What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Hi lifts are over rated. Stock bottle jack works fine and if your inexperienced with a hi lift, the bottle jack is way safer. Plus you don’t have to droop out the suspension and have the truck lifted sky high.

my next thing is to get a hf aluminum jack and put a skid on it and mount that to make it even easier.

 

Where did you get those and how much?

 

@Ace115 I ordered through Corbeau, and I got them optioned with lumbar and heat, and brackets.. it wasn’t cheap, I think it was like 1400ish.. but if you just want the seats without any extras or brackets I think they’re like 900ish.

They’re sweet though, I have a more detailed post in my build thread (on page 9), if you want more details.

 

Went to 2010-2015 4Runner front calipers and pre-2010 Lexus GX470 rotors today. Initial test fit shows they favor the outboard face of the rotor so I ordered some shims to take up inboard slack room. Calipers are OEM $156 online and rotors are $68. Not much more (sometimes less than) parts store prices. Calipers are stamped 14WB but have a 12mm bolt hole like 14WA that used be be cast into calipers 2010-2015. They have a machined face that looks like it could accept a banjo bolt but I’m going to get some extended lines made with a 10x1mm 90* fitting from an aircraft line store instead.



I got the info from @Bandido

 

I should’ve had you help me with my tundra upgrade, you’re getting downright scientific with that!

 

haha I didn’t do anything just read this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-brakes-swaps-and-tech.468271/page-5#post-20254498

I did get a little worried when I showed up to the dealer and opened the box and saw the 14WB casting in the caliper but the mounting holes didn’t look bigger than 12mm like our mounting bolts and the 14WA calipers instead of 14mm 14WB calipers which came on 2015+ 4runners and GX460’s. Not a deal breaker if you got the 14mm hole 14WB’s you could make sheathes with 12mm ID 14mm OD aluminum tube which is cheap off of Amazon. Luckily ordering part numbers for earlier 2010-2015 calipers have the 12mm bolt holes despite not coming with the 14WB casting.

Not today, but made bed cage mounting points out of tube and big washers for replacing the factory mounting points on the bed (which at least one had been stripped by someone else already) so it bolts from the top. All bolts are 1/2” grade 8 which fit well with drilling out the threads in the factory nutserts and adding spacers to pinch the cross members of the bed to the frame. The bed cage floats on top of the spacers so you don’t have to get things lined up 100% before dropping the bolts in and can nudge them around one at a time as needed before tightening everything. Made some tabs to hold the bolts still so you can just use a socket to tighten the nuts from the bottom. 3/4” socket fits perfectly up through the two holes in the frame for the last two bolts in the rear and I just slipped the spacers under the bed in the bracket that spaces the bed off of the frame for those. Flange nuts work well for those since getting a washer up there is nearly impossible.

The other good thing for me is that because I got fiberglass bedsides I can build off of this keeping everything tied into the frame instead of my weakened bedrails and keep it all modular and completely removeable if I use bolt on flanges and eventually want to use the bed for carrying stuff - I’ll just impact the bolts from underneath.

 

Appreciate the summary. I'm going to have to pull my CVs in the next week or two and I've never pulled a CV before - I've got one slinging grease. Not sure if I should reboot my original CVs or buy rebuilt OEM axles. Swapping in some rebuilt ones sounds like a lot less work.

 

Re-booting is not bad at all. Most say its messy but if you have plenty of rags and a few gloves, you'll be alright. I went with @SDHQ OFFROAD boots.

 

Picked up a little tote to stash my tools since I’ve been just throwing everything in my backseat and it’s starting to fly around the cab when things get rowdy lol

I’m still looking for a permanent solution that I can leave mounted in the bed but being a short bed tool box’s that fit and don’t take up the whole bed aren’t super common . What are some of you double cab guys using for tool boxes ?

 

I do the same thing for wheeling/camping trips, put my tools in a tote up against the cab. I like it because at least on the xtra cabs, it leaves enough room on either side of the tote for my jerry cans to fit. Run a strap across the top through the cans and anchored to the bed hooks, and it all stays in place.

Looks like the wheel wells on the double cab are right there though so I guess the jerry can idea wouldn't work well in this case

 

Do you have a picture of this bottle jack mod?

 

I have three of those, great little totes that make hitting the road super fast and easy

 

I have the 56qt plano case

ignore the messy setup right now, but I the 56qt Plano bin, can definitely slide it over and fit a gas can beside it. Fits in the back seat nicely as well if I need the whole bed

 

Was actually thinking about going to the large bin like Trigo has cause everything is kinda crammed in this smaller bin

 

You all let me know a part on the Yota you’d like to see get cleaned and polished up if possible. I’ll do my best to make it happen!

 

My whole car

 

The intake mani?

 

lol...that's awesome

 

If is to be, it's up to me! Consider it done and i'll post some pics this evening.