Vagabond Drifter Camper Buildout and Mods

You can also use a circuit breaker, which is what I use. Just make sure it’s matches the max amperage of your fuse block.

 

Do you have a link to one? Sorry, total electrical n00b here.

 

This is the fuse block I have installed.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks

$30 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Circuit with Ground and Cover

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6aWmFbNBJ7MNY

 

maybe something like this- https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Batter...dp/B07DPNRWXW/ref=psdc_15719961_t2_B07HT19T5V

 

I have the same one. 30A ea, 180A total

 

Something like this is what I used... they're available in many different amp settings. Choose one that won't trip if all your loads are running at max consumption at the same time.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7135/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_25A

 

This style seems popular in van builds:

$13 Battery Switch, 12V 24V 48V Battery Disconnect Master Cutoff Switch for Marine Boat RV ATV UTV Vehicles, Waterproof Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch (On/Off)

https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Vehicles-Waterproof-Isolator-Position/dp/B07HT19T5V

This is not an endorsement of this specific switch.

 

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blu...YYcPLozMucQWOsd7lBsifjqXKXRHbMLMaAq33EALw_wcB

This is the series I have used for all my fused/disconnect requirements. You would need to pick the correct amps based on what is coming through from your solar panel, but these work well and I have seen them used in a number of power systems, both professionally & DIY.

 

Awesome. So a 180a breaker is what I need.
Thanks for everyone’s help!

 

I am in the process intalling my Redarc DC to DC charger. Do I need make a full run of the negative wire from Starter battery to the Auxillary battery? I am just thinking of making a chassis ground for Auxillary battery? Is this okay to do?

Looking at the Redarc Instructions on page 11. It dispays a chassis ground at the Auxillary battery in the diagram. When searching I see some people making a full length ground wire run from starter battery to auxillary battery.

Personally I think it is okay to make a chassis ground if I sand off all the paint of the metal surface where I attach the ground cable to.

Here is a diagram. I circled the the area of concern in a red circle.

For the power wire going to the bed I will definately make a chassis ground near the bed.

 

It’s probably OK, but if you’re planning on hooking up a lot to the aux battery, I would connect the negatives in addition to grounding the chassis.

Look up “Big 3 Upgrade” to get a better explanation about how the ground is important

 

I've got a

$438 BCDC1240D Dual Input 40A in-Vehicle DC Battery Charger

BCDC1240D and I just grounded mine to the frame.
Though I did make sure it was overdone - cables were doubled compared to my actual charging/load requirements, and paint completely removed from the frame at the connection point.

 

I definitely understand how a good ground is important.

I used a 1AWG ground cable I had laying around and grounded it to the rear seat bracket. I removed the bracket and grinded off the paint of both sides and the body as well. Maybe I will go the extra measure and route another ground cable directly to the frame as well so I have both chassis and frame grounds.

Power wires are 6AWG which was more than enough using the bluesea calcuator (bluesea said 8awg but went one size bigger).

Pic of ground cable.

 

Hi Vagabond family! Just wanted to share
A few weeks ago I installed a very simple mosquito net using an existing one I got from Amazon that just velcroed to the doorway of my house.

I cut it in half horizontally and then attached it to the drifter using binder clips plus Velcro!

They overlap a little bit in the middle but it’s not a big deal (you also get a magnet less entry). It tucks away into that little space on the top for the wires.

Very convenient and easy install. Not perfect, but worked well last weekend. Happy camping!

 

Not exactly Vagabond related, but at Walmart in AZ they are selling this cordless hand vac for $20. Bought one and used it to clean out the whole camper! Strong enough to pull crap out of the carpet.

Charge time is 2-3 hours on a Micro USB and runs for 15 min. Enough time to do a full vacuum and clean.

 

I was able to find a to find a Kuat Pivot v2 hitch swing locally as they seem to be out of stock everywhere. It is replacing a yakima hitchswing that I've been pretty happy with and has stayed on the truck since I got it.

The Kuat hitch swing makes a few improvements to the Yakima:
(1) The length is a bit shorter than the Yakima so it sits closer to the bumper making overall length shorter
(2) The swing arm is ~5in longer which makes a big difference in clearance for the tailgate when swung out.
(3) It swings around 120deg in addition to a stop at 90deg.

I wanted these somewhat minor improvements to build a storage rack. The main goals for the rack were to keep it as compact as possible (specifically the length) and to be able to still carry bikes in addition to the rack.

I started with a Kuat Hi-lo hitch extender:


I just bolted some angle aluminum to mount the main rack "rail". I would like to replace these with some welded steel tabs. The hitch extender bolts to the receiver tube so it's wobble free with the rack attached.

For the main "rail" of the rack, I went with a 1.5x3in 60in piece of slotted aluminum extrusion (15 series). While more expensive than a piece of steel tubing, it was only $45 from Tnutz so not too much more money. It makes the rack a bit easier to add mounts.

Next, I made some trays for some plano bins I had out of left over extrusion and angle aluminum from my camper build-out. I kept it pretty minimal. One benefit is that without the boxes on the rack, the tailgate can be dropped down and the rack only extends a few inches past (so no need to swing it out of the way.

Initially, I just attached some d-rings to the trays to bungee the boxes down. It felt pretty secure and I used it like that for a short camping trip and it worked fine. However, I didn't have a ton of confidence in the bungees as it would be possible for them to slip off the tabs on the plano bins and then the bin could bounce out of the tray. The next trip was a longer road trip so I installed some rivnuts in the angle aluminum part of the tray and just bolted the bins down with 1/4-20 knobs. It's still fairly quick to remove a bin.

It doesn't really hurt departure angle too much as it not great before. It certainly hurts departure "length" if that is even a thing. It sits relatively high so not much worse than running a bike rack.

Anyway, that's a lot of words for a hitch rack. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and I'm a big fan of the Kuat Pivot (this is an updated version of the original which looks inferior). I was hoping to get the bins a bit closer to the tailgate. However, even with the longer swing arm, where they are mounted is as close as they can be without interfering with dropping the tailgate when swung out. Technically, the left bin could sit much closer inboard. I plan to add some additional storage in that dead space, perhaps a fold up table.

Currently, I'm using the bins mainly as kitchen/food storage. With the stove on the fridge pull-out, I have essentially an instant kitchen.

 

That’s a rad setup! I’d love to copy it but move everything higher for clearance!!

Awesome work.

 

Has anyone had trouble contacting the guys at Vagabond? They said something interesting to me a while back on IG and I’ve been trying to email, message, etc. before I order so I end up with the correct build. Phone call the best route?

 

As mentioned plenty of times in the thread, they can be slow to respond. If your worried about making decisions on options before you order, don't. Order, get in line, and you can change options down the line. If you have questions about whether or not they can build/outfit what you want, then I understand.

 

It's a pretty unique question that will effect Drifter vs. Nomad but I get what you're saying. I'll keep trying to get through. Thanks.