Ceramic Coatings/Wax

Been waxing my 19 Tacoma every fall and spring since I bought it. My wife's Outback got a ceramic coating from the dealer when she bought it last year and it looks like it was just "detailed" yesterday.
I'd like to use the ceramic coating on the Tacoma but have a couple questions. Can I put this on over the waxes I've already got on the truck, or do I have to strip the finish first? If I do have to remove the old waxes what's a good product to use? Can the ceramic be applied and buffed off by hand or is a buffer required? Last but not least suggestions on the best ceramic coating I can use.

 

The ceramics need to be on as clean a paint as possible and some even come with a spray or other product to prep the surface for their application. Putting it on top of another wax/sealant will usually hurt its longevity as it won't adhere as well.

They are usually applied by hand and a machine isn't necessary but you may want to correct the paint first as you won't be able to get swirls out once its on. If you are looking only for protection and you don't care about swirls then have at it and put it on. Autogeek has some pretty user friendly coatings and they have videos demonstrating their application since it has to be done correctly as they are sometimes not forgiving.

 

This

Also you're gonna wanna clay bar it before hand as well. Dish soap will strip off waxes ect. Clay bar to pickup everything else. Then spend the next 5 or 6 hours applying

 

@TacoBuffet has applied it to several vehicles and is knowledgeable about various products.

 

Are you going to be DIY'ing this? Do you have a garage? Or will this be done outside?

While not particularly difficult, there are some parts that can be a bit strict. Also depending on the brand you use, each has different cure times, or sensitivity to elements during the coating process.
Best to have a garage. Doing this outside restricts you to a very narrow line of ceramic coats. Specifically CQuartz UK 3.0 is one that was formulated for those situations. Other ceramic coats can be finicky, like immediately buff once it "flashes" "hazes" etc.

You will want to strip all previous protections and sealants. Ceramic Coatings basically seal the paint with a semi hard semi permanent layer, so you would not want wax stuck under it. Likewise, the paint will be locked to whatever condition it was before the ceramic went over. Scratches and swirls can become more pronounce after a ceramic coat. So paint correction is highly recommended.

Spray, Wash, Clean, Rinse, Iron remover, Rinse, Tar remover, Rinse, Clay Bar, IPA.
Buff, Polish, Shine, IPA then Ceramic Coat.
CQuartz 3.0 is usually done to 2 layers, then topped off with CarPro Reload.

I personally have CeramicPro on my truck. Did not have a garage to work in, so I had a shop do it.

 

I'm a detailing junkie, I've tried everything coming and going. My go to paint protection in recent years has been Zaino, and I haven't touched a bottle of regular wax in years. That being said, I've been dabbling in the ceramics and have been quite impressed. As I get older I just don't have the time and energy for an all day wax job.

This past weekend I tried Adam's Graphene, their latest Ceramic (I love Adam's products). They recommend a correction at first, but since my paint was in good shape I just went to it. Did the whole truck, including windows, steps, and tonneau, in just over an hour. It rained on it today and water is running off like a ducks back, and the shine is incredible. This pic was just after I finished on Sunday.

Bottom line, I think I'm a convert...I like this stuff!

 

Thanks buddy for the tag, glad I didn't take my comments in the white thread the wrong way.

 

If you prep the paint correctly for ceramic coating, you'll be taking off the wax along with some clear. To do it correctly you'll want at least an orbital buffer. To put it easily you should work your way from coarse buffing pads with a scratch remover to smoother buffing pads with polishers. Similar to sanding, work your way from rough to smooth. Then you could either wipe the car down with isoprpyl alcohol or another pre-made prep solution to breakdown any oils. Then you'll apply the ceramic coating with an applicator provided with most ceramic coatings. You'll do small sections at a time, wiping off the excess after the allotted time per the manufacturer's instructions. The actual ceramic coating doesn't take that long. It's the prep that takes the most time and will make or break the quality of ceramic coating you apply.
I haven't ceramic coated my Tacoma, but I did my Audi last year using the Gyeon line. I have no complaints about it.
If you want a nice intermediate between wax and ceramic coating, you could try a paint sealant. They protect the paint longer than a carnuba wax, but don't offer the showcase shine a wax does. People who use paint sealants will typically apply the paint sealant and than apply a couple of coats of carnuba wax on top. You get the protection of the paint sealant, with the shine of the wax.

 

Did he actually apply it or just pay for it to be applied? @Older'n Dirt I'd contact a professional detailer that has a reputable service background. Should have a lot of the info you need.

 

Wow I have a Ceramic coating from them but not this stuff. Took only an hour ? I'm all ears

 

First off you are on the right track, though wax and sealant gives that old school feel, there is no reason with DIY options to not do a ceramic coating, the longevity, protection and ease of maintainence just can't be beat. With that being said you have a few options when picking a coating as not all coatings are equal and not all are available to the consumer to do themselves such as Ceramic Pro, Modesta, etc. As @AMC_Unlimited, mentioned some of the benefits with CP is it shows up on a carfax and can be used for resale purposes and it does have a "warranty" provided you continue to visit a certified installer for yearly maintainence washes and recoats with the hydrophillic topcoat, they also have been around the longest and have a proven product. All ceramic coatings will require whatever prior coating, wax or sealant be removed prior to. You will also want your paint pristine as whatever you leave as far as swirls, etchings, orange peel, etc. will be locked under the coating, and this is where you get varying prices because the bulk of the price is the detailer and the level of work / skill they put into paint correction prior too, if you don't need it perfect and feel comfortable polishing / correcting yourself than a DIY is an option. Now come the fun part there are SOOOOOO many over the counter DIY coatings available, all requiring different cure times/conditions and application as well as price. Most you can / are best applied by hand, its a tiny bit and goes a long way. As far as coatings I would strongly suggest CQuartz UK by Carpro, I did 2 coats of this on my 20 and its AMAZING, it was specifically designed to hold up to winter enviornments and road salt which was important to me. There are other coatings that are great in their own ways like some of GTechniq's products which makes the paint come out like crazy (you'd probably enjoy this route, similar to a wax look). Most detailers and professionals will tell you any more than 2 layers is a waste, so don't be upsold on the Gold Package's or whatever and no coating is going to last you more than 3-5 years, most will show / need some love by 2, depending on how they were maintained and the climate. Here is a youtube guy who did a 34 panel test, so you can compare, you'll get a sense of which ones to consider.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gj9CRNHbLjk

 

I've done both.

 

Your Handle cracks me up every time I see it. Cheers!

 

The biggest factor between wax/sealants and ceramics is price. Ceramic coating done correctly is expensive.

 

Exactly, as I alluded to you are paying for the time put in by the detailer to get the paint perfect, you can skip all that if you feel comfortable doing the prep yourself and a bottle of CQuartz will run you $55. Some brands set price points for installers to go by as well such as Ceramic Pro.

 

I took a lifetime warranty contract from simonize for their ceramic glass treatment program...its suppose to protect the inner and exterior of the vehicle. Said i'd never have to wax the truck again. Well so far so good. Where i use to get paint chips on my tundra by now, with this coating i haven't gotten i single nick or chip yet, but i can hear the stones peppering my truck as i live off a dirt road. Imo, i can guess its only a matter of time.

 

This is a common misconception, you've just been lucky, but coatings DO NOT protect against chips, driving thorough sand or some trail brush and pinstripes, bird bombs, etc. sure but its not some magic shield.

 

Only a hand full of people have gotten it!

 

I did GTechniq on my wife's BMW when it was new and moderately happy with it after 6 months. Not sure if it is that I have been looking at it for so long or my expectations for a deeper shine are just unrealistic. I compare that to my truck that I have been using Mother's CMX spray which seems to shine equally as well. I do the CMX about every month. The benefit of the spray is that you don't have to prep. Just wash, spray and wipe. One product I absolutely despise after using is the Maguire's ceramic spray. You spray it while it is wet and this crap is supposed to dry to a shine. It streaks the windows horribly and offered very little shine after a lot of polishing with a microfiber.

 

What is important, is that I laugh every time that I see it