Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

what’s wrong with them? I had planned on guesseting my spindles with the TC kit...

what do you charge to weld in yours, if I were to send you mine? I have a spare pair I just picked up, so I wanna get them done.

 

In TC write up they say that they will need to be massaged into place around the new spindle gussets, and with a 4lb dead blow I gave it the old tap tap and I was able to “massage” the dust shield around the gussets and get on with my life. Fear not, they will be fine. with and without rotor for reference..
Now, continue on with the weld porn that this thread is so full of.....

 

Working on one right now for the silver taco. We are doing a shackle flip with the shackles mounted off D44 spindle snouts. I hate the boat anchor factory shackle mounts so this will fix that and allow for a 9” shackle so the springs can actually cycle and get in the 18” travel range

 

They just end up getting bent, mangled and sucked into the caliper.

Yes I would charge to weld in the gussets as it takes time to clean, prep, weld, paint and then box up and ship back

*to clarify I was referring to the OE caliper guards not the TC spindle gussets

 

Is jd going to be selling them?

 

@81Trekker I'm definitely interested in what you do with the rear. I did a Chevy 63 swap on mine, with 16" shocks through the bed, and the ride is good, and flex is great, but there just isn't enough up travel. I'm not even close to using all of the shock. I think part of it is the junk yard leaves. I think I'm bumped at around 4.5 inches of up travel, only 3.5" of that is clean travel, then I have around 9" down travel. I'm basically only using 13" of my 16" shock. I'm not super happy with it even though it does ride decently well. I think going spring under and swapping my rear shackle mounts would fix it.

 

Yes

 

Tire clearance for days! This is with the lower pushed forward 1”, CMC and 285/75’s

35’s will fit no prob

 

winning!

I wish I had the free cash to buy the lower kit and the uppers. Sucks that I would also have to get a custom IFS skid made too, to mate up to my midskid.

 

Got it all washed up, bolts torqued, paint marked, shocks charged, greased and dropped off at the alignment shop. These 3rd gens are really growing on me!

 

What are you calling the “mid skid” the kit comes standard with the high clearance diff sump skid that goes under the motor

 

transmission skid.

 

Can you post up the alignment numbers when it comes back? Especially the caster numbers

 

Will do, I told him I want between 4-5 degrees

 

Also curious where the cam tabs end up also...if you feel like posting pics of them after the alignmemt.

 

That's one of the reasons I haven't had time to do mine yet, will be making all new skids all the way to behind the transfer case, as well as making a new front bumper, and tying the skid into that

 

Same

I've had more issues with mud, gravel, and other debris getting stuck between the rotor and shield causing noise and scaring the rotor than I have with grease getting slung onto the rotor. When I had a leaky boot it didn't get close to the rotor. With them off easier to clean the cooling veins of the rotor out and dislodge any potential debris that may get stuck in there now.

 

I forgot to take a picture of the specs but the caster was set to 5 and camber set at -1

 

For the 2.25 LT, is any additional travel gained with the 934 CV? If I don’t get them, will I be robbing myself of travel?

I understand they can articulate more but I’m wondering how necessary it is with JD long travel kit.

 

I asked the same thing but was just pointed to the sight. I had to sift though 60 pages to partially find my answer. The upper Uniballs is whats keeping it from gaining any more from my understanding but both CV options can handle the 13" of travel.