CSF All Aluminum Performance Radiator For our trucks FINALLY!!!

Anyone know of a similar one that works well? this one has been unavailable for some time. A lot of piss por ones on Amazon. hoping someone has some recs for a different one.

 

I used this one, no issues. Could have been smaller but no problem.
I installed the shroud on the radiator outside of the truck. Then lowered the rad into the truck while holding the fan inside the shroud.

$18 ESUPPORT 315" 8Meter Big D Car Motor Auto Door Rubber Seal Strip Weatherstrip Seals Hollow

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WDNF7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Try your nearest auto parts store....I’m positive it’ll be in stock

 

yah i know will find some version. Always like to get feedback on a proven product.

 

Nice I was looking at that one but wasnt sure if it was too big.

 

I bought mine from the auto parts store and not Amazon. Any version of it will work so long as it’s squishy. That will take up the area needed between the radiator and fan housing

 

Would not having a good deal affect much of that performance of the CSF? It was hot as hell today (100) but sitting in drive through at in n out today for 30 min my truck was roasting. I know I was just sitting and not doing it any favors but this seems way to warm. S/C is adding a ton of heat but this seems way to high. Not perfect but gets an idea. May toss that mishimoto 160 on after all. But I expected better with the CSF.

 

The seal around the shroud to radiator makes a big difference, any air that can be pulled in through there, will be, since it is much lower restriction than pulling through the radiator. How much difference it will make, I don't know.

Something up with those temps. Questions: how are they measured? I live in phx, still using stock radiator, (but have csf on the shelf) heavy truck like yours, and I have only been able to get coolant to that temp in the longest up hill runs or when in the dunes with super high loads on engine and trans... It just doesn't have the load at idle. Granted, I don't have a blower either, that is more heat being introduced in front of the radiator. But also, why in the heck is your trans temp that hot? Seriously, the TC output temp can go up when in gear, spiking, but again, idling with no load there just isn't any force to build heat into anything. I'd expect the pan temp to be WAY down from there. And throw it in neutral, the TC output should collapse quickly to the same as pan temp. Where / how are you getting engine oil temp? I thought that toyota didn't monitor engine oil temp or pressure, only a low pressure warning light. I have a scan guage and have never seen these temps or anything close to them when idling. I'd have thought your IAT to be higher, with the heat soak and low air flow volume though. Have you ever tried someone else's OBD reader to see if it was different?

 

I have a couple I can try but you can tell that engine bay is hot as hell. Even my A/C was Fighting it. I thought it broke sitting there. Once I got back on the road A/C slowly returned to normal. I am going to start first by pulling the shroud and redoing it. My guess is that’s not doing a good job and it’s a domino affect since the coolant isn’t cooling enough. this is an OBD MX reader. One of the better reviewed ones. I have couple others that are middle quality. If my HP tuner picks that up I’ll get a log with that too. it was 100 today and regular around town it’s 200 sometimes higher which is still too high. I had a temp warning come on on trail after a steep incline and I’ve been monitoring after that. Some ideas we had in the S/C thread was possibly I always had a low trans fill from the start and now it’s showing it’s face. I planning on doing a valve body job so I’ll replace and fill it proper. Some guess is the trans fluid may just be toast.

I installed the CSF the same time as the S/C so it’s hard to say but I only started seeing this post install.

 

I don't think a colder thermostat is going to help sitting at idle temps on a hot day. You already overpowered your current thermo in this pic.
Your clutch fan doesn't move enough air at idle on a hot day, the rad needs a better seal, and shifting into idle all would help.
Im confused where you got oil temp numbers, never seen those without aftermarket add ons.

 

I suggest adding a larger external transmission cooler. Your temp of 235* is way too hot, and is most likely causing damage to the transmission.

You really want to keep the trans temp below 220*.

 

This is why some of us have switched to electric fans. @Roostfactor 's adaptation was pretty damn solid.

Now that it is heat of the summer time, how is your electric fan handling the heat extraction?

 

If you are going to pull the shroud, I’d put a different fan clutch in. Sounds to me like it isn’t moving any air at idle. Seal the radiator and make sure there isn’t any obvious places for air to go around the heat exchangers. Put tape to plug gaps as a temporary test. Also I’d try taking off the rearward wheel-well engine splash shields off for a test. Not the front though. With full skids, it may not be easy enough for the air that comes through the radiator to get out of the engine bay, which is usually down and back past the trans. Also you could pull the cowl seal to allow hot air to escape out the back of the hood.

Can anyone else confirm tons of extra heat in engine bay at idle due to blower? I know if you just got done making boots it will be very hot. But conceptually at idle it is bypassing, spinning with no load, and although it is hot and so is the coolant, and it does block airflow in the radiator, it all should be cooling down since there is no heat generation happening. What should be generating heat is your exhaust radiating everywhere, but fan wash should be pushing some of that thermal energy down and out.

Full blown heat soak with not enough fan driven airflow is the cause of your ac failure. How your trans got that hot is a mystery to me

I think perhaps you have a flow issue on the thermostat as well. Maybe it is defective or something.

And yeah this is the first time I’ve seen engine oil temp on a display that wasn’t a stand alone gauge. I’d like to get that on my Scanguage. Anyone have tips on that??

Next time you are in this situation, shift to neutral and hold the gas pedal, rev up some just to spin things a little faster with not much load, wherever it feels happy, like ~1500 rpm, if you did that for a minute or two, do you see the temps plummet right away?

My whole point is that the issues shouldn’t be due to the blower itself, yes it is hot but it isn’t a source of heat generation in this situation. The issues are related to airflow through the heat exchangers.

 

Try using HP tuners scanner and compare numbers. Something doesn’t seem right there.

 

Yah I didn’t think it would be the thermo or it would help but I didn’t install it thinking it would be too low. First thing I need is to seal up the shroud better and see if that helps. I more or less have no liners, splash guards etc. my assumption is it’s the seal in the radiator as I was not having the issue prior just happened to be S/c and CSF at the same time.

In terms of the oil temp I was An option so seemed like a good one to have. May be simulated is if it’s not something you would normally have.

 

anyone selling a used CSF? was driving in 118 degree temps and the truck was definitely running hot. 205-210 most of the time but got as high as 215. transmission pan stayed around 200 degrees.

also noticed my coolant overflow lid spit out coolant again, any idea why this is happening?

 

How did you get engine oil temperature pdi?

 

Id look into a bigger AT cooler.

 

Ever had it flushed? Whatever you do don’t put a higher pressure cap on it unless you want to end up replacing the radiator and heater core. Some transfer is normal and is siphoned back as it cools but too much or more often than previously are signs of clogging or inadequate heat dissipation. If the stock radiator was adequate before then maybe you don’t need the upgrade but if it wasn’t or you anticipate harsher conditions then go for it. I’m curious myself which is why I follow this thread even though I have yet to require it.

 

it’s an option. On my ODB MX reader. It has a Toyota add only onem

yah that’s on my list. It I would still expect it to be lower than it is when I’m driving it normally.