For Stock Rigs Only

I'm a fan of the yellow. But that does look clean though.

Just looking for a change?

 

Ugh... just noticed that my headlight assemblies are starting to melt again on the DTRL area. Exactly the same on both sides. They were already replaced once for this issue under the TSB.

 

Interesting thing I did today. I've actually done this before. But not recently. I borrowed my buddy's borescope to check the inside of the boxed sections (near the cats) of frame.

Thankfully they looked great. For the last 3 years I've filled up those areas with Liquid Wrench rust inhibitor twice a year...late fall and late spring. Before the spring application I take the garden hose with the nozzle set to a high pressure setting and blowout the area to remove anything that might be loose. Let it dry for several days then fill it up.

I also do the leaf springs, front cross member and bottom of the frame channels.

Very pleased with what I saw. I will continue my routine.

Oh....and this scope Bluetooths with my phone. I tried like hell to get some screen shots of the frame inside. But to no avail. Just couldn't hold the phone, the scope and screen shot all at the same time. The pix came out as nonsense

 

What's the plan? Aftermarket? I'm sure Depo makes some OEM replacements and some upgraded ones too

 

It's only about the size of a nickel. I just replaced the bulbs. They seemed hot. Wasn't sure that was a sign if a bad filament. Tried LED's, but that messed up my blinkers.

If it gets worse, I'll complain to my dealership about not replacing with the corrected assembly. That was about 4 yrs ago.

 

It uses a dual filament bulb....one for the parking lamp and one for the turn signal. The DRLs fire both filaments so the DRL will be bright. So it's normal for an incandescent be hot. In fact, that's what's causing the melting of the lense over time.

LEDs burn much cooler. But the resistance is a fraction of an incandescent. So the flasher unit hyper flashes because it thinks you have a burned out bulb. I think some of the higher end ones have built in resistors. But don't hold me to that.

 

Not sure about these but others here may have tried them
https://www.diodedynamics.com/switchback-turn-signal-leds-for-2005-2015-toyota-tacoma-pair.html

 

Hey Rick[/QUOTE]


Hey Bill. How are thing's way up there?

 

Not bad. Has cooled down some. Low to mid 80s. Not bad for August around here

 

Night folks

 

Y’all and your 60’s and 70’s... Was 112 and 26% humidity today.

 

Found a sneaky snake today while I was trenching with the tractor. Moved him to a safe spot across the yard. Feisty little thing

 

Just looked at the forecast for tomorrow...think I might die. 111 with 51% humidity. Just shoot me. When it gets to be over 110 and the humidity is over 10%, my house AC can barely maintain 79 degrees inside downstairs and 90 degrees upstairs. Tomorrow is going to be brutal.

 

Oof. Sorry brother

 

Cool. Nice of you to move it to safety

 

AND THIS THREAD TURNS 1 YEAR OLD TODAY!!

I've really enjoyed all the conversations, pictures, advice, insight.

It's not my thread. It belongs to everyone.

 

Big John

 

It's a great thread Bill!

 

The Honda engine are different than what I'm used to. The Briggs and Stratton are much easier to work on.

The Honda engine has a plastic carb spacer plate with manual choke. It's tricky to install if the person working it is not paying attention on it came off. My neighbor found this out the hard way. It's all a learning experiment.

I found it weird by revving the engine up the idle increase slightly.

On the video where the person bend the lever to increase the idle. The lever has a hole right above where the spring attach. It wouldn't take much to put the spring in the upper hole on the lever to adjust the spring tension, or maybe not.

Do you think I there any break in period?

 

The lights has more of a stealth look now.

Wouldn't the yellow lights have better visibility in bad weather?