CSF All Aluminum Performance Radiator For our trucks FINALLY!!!

Have you looked at what Roost did?

 

I was going to look into it. I was taking to @zscott about what he did. He mentioned roost setup.

 

Yes it was flushed. Even replaced water pump, thermostat. Day to day driving is totally fine. Usually in the 190’s

just worried it’s head gasket blown. I do not see any bubbling when it is running. On a cold engine the reservoir is at the “high” mark so I’m not sure if it’s normal for it to fill all the way to the top. Usually never drive in 118 degree weather but I still feel like it’s not normal.

not a lot spilled out the cap, but enough to have some pink/white marks on the shroud

 

My truck used to run hot like that and also sometimes would have some residue. I figured the residue was from the cap not being 100% sealed, and when offroading/bouncing around some coolant would slosh around and fall out. I always attributed the truck running hot as an issue with the supercharger. The csf fixed that for the most part. Only problem I have is my trans likes to get really hot in certain situations. Nothing an aftermarket trans cooler can’t fix. I think the fan clutch on these trucks doesn’t pull enough air at idle on hot days. So if I were you I would either try a fan clutch with a thicker fluid or get the csf and call it a day.

Also I notice you said your trans was staying 200F in the pan. Do you know what converter temps were? I have a thought that the converter may have been much higher which is going to help warm up your engine as the stock rad is trying to cool the trans oil and engine coolant together.

 

I have messed with the fan clutch a couple times. I have the thicker fluid in it and it works very well. My issue with the heat was in Death Valley, 118 degree heat, trying to go 80 ish MPH lol. At idle the truck pulls plenty of air. I even have a pusher fan as well.

I moniter TQ too and it never really got above 230 briefly. I may put an even bigger cooler in.

 

Ordered some new seals for the shroud but was impatient and found some HVAC tape in the toolbox. Ran it all around So at least it keeps the air flowing. This stuff should be air right once it seals. I figure if the radiator stays under 200 most of the time should be ok for the test has a temp rating if 200 or 345. I forgot which one this was. A bigger AT cooler is still a good upgrade and I’m sure with how hot it’s running and age of trans fluid a fluid change will help. goal is to do that and valve body job at the same time which makes sense. Need to see which AT cooler setup will work for me.



5-10 min of basic driving still wanting up.



after a WOT throttle 10-15 min




After a second WOT that was much longer and taxing



Back at the house initial temps



Let the truck idle in the driveway for 10 min or so to see if would get worse similar to the 240 I was getting at idle.

 

Those are pretty close to my numbers. I think you found your problem.

 

That’s good to hear. My next question was going to be what are others Getting it where should I be searching. It would still benefit from a cool trans with a bigger cooler but way better than 240-250 I was seeing. CSF needs to either fix the figment or supply a seal and specifically tell you to add it. the GAO didn’t seem too bad but I guess it was enough to basically make the shroud useless

 

Are you still there? Just hit 130! Wonder what coolant temps you'd get with that heat.

 

Not there anymore.

 

Going to place an order for the fj radiator

I'm going to order the 2009 4runner shroud and an fj overflow. Besides the bolts for the overflow, what do I need?

What are you doing for overflow hoses

 

Stuff to make it sealed. Just ask @nudavinci64 what happens when you don’t get a good shroud seal. There are several ways to do it. I used the rubber seal discussed on this thread.

 

Didn’t know the fj rad needed that too

 

I have an FJ rad + 4runner cheapo rock auto shroud. Had to apply the seal and bend the trans oil lines, wasn't that bad.

 

Did you have to purchase the overflow hoses?

 

Shroud and overflow tank were the only things I bought then (based on a quick email search). I basically followed @Roostfactor ’s lead on this. I can’t remember if I used my old hose or the new one that came with the overflow tank. Also got the clips that @loginfailed quoted. Search those two usernames and you’ll get all the parts you need

 

Here they are

 

yah that seal is a game changer if you forget to do it. seal now! I just got a new seal I need to toss on, its a bit fatter and I may look into using some heat tape over it to make sure its tight. Basically whats on there now and its working fine now. At least from feedback im back into the better S/C heat ranges.

I have the Tacoma version if it matters. Install was super easy. I did not have any issue getting the top on the top like others have. Its tight but doable. You need to play with the position of the radiator though to get it in a good spot.

 

I have a brand new FJ CSF I'm willing to sell. Let me know if you are interested. Would be shipping from Phx.

I also have a URD thermostat adapter and 160 motorad thermostat, brand new.

I've decided I'm going to use the Tacoma radiator and the Mishimoto thermostat when I do my install.

 

I am really disappointed at CSF.. The fact I have a tacoma version radiator and it's not tight causing my shroud and clips to not be aligned like stock. Their top mount are way to long, and needs to be shorten down. Why do we spend all this money, to have to mod it to get a nice seal. This sounds like a class action lawsuit... call me petty, but they designed a radiator specifically for the tacoma still having issues. Not only that, when the box ship the mounts are bent... This is just bull shit quality overall. Its a hassle to all you guys having to deal with it, engineers are paid to remove errors, not create them. I get the FJ radiator, but this radiator created was for the TACOMA!