MARYLAND TACOMAS

hyrule_trd · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

Sorry guys, I edited my original post. I changed it to read: "I did not sand it AT all". This was my first time using Plastidip so I watched a bunch of videos online. The only prep required in every instance was to ensure you made sure there was no residual oils, dirt etc, on the parts to be painted. When I did my door badges I just washed them with car wash. On the grill and surround, since I could remove it, I used alcohol and wiped it down real good after washing it. I wore latex gloves to ensure no oils from my hands/fingers got on it. I did this in December and in my garage. It was pretty cold so I had a chicken coup heater running, and after each coat of paint I used my wife's hair dryer to heat it up and then let it cool down. This seemed to really smooth it out. The most important thing with Pastidip (or any paint for that matter) is to resist putting too much on at once. It took me at least 3 coats just to finally hide any look of chrome. I can't stress this enough how important this is. You want it to look almost dry after a minute or two. If you put too much at once it seems to not want to be as even and smooth looking.

I let the glossifier dry longer and hit it with more heat and longer than the paint. It took me all day for the grill. If it was not as cold I probably wouldn't have needed the hair dryer.

Oh, the one most important thing I left out, if it's colder (below 70 degrees), the paint and glossifier will not come out as smooth. It will come out more in a spritz/splatter pattern and you definitely do not want that. The one video I watched said that this sprays better when warm. Some said to wrap the can in a towel and put it in the dryer. Some said to keep the can in a container/pot/whatever with hot tap water in between coats. I opted for the warm water method. I did not want to buy a new dryer. I also warmed the can in the garage with the hair dryer as I moved from the grill to the grill surround.

I also sat the pieces up on those shims so I could hit all the edges. I did not do the insides at all. Definitely heat up the back of the grill emblem before removing it or the tabs will break off. I also recommend this for the tabs separating the grill/surround from the painted body part of the grill. Doing this when it is cold makes them easier to break.
Click to expand...

Nice pointers!
I might be plastidiping my badges an tailgate letters green to match the coils. Will also have to do that to the JBAs if I get those.

FIRE74 · Aug 18, 2020

Hey @RobP62, all is good!
@AR15xAR10, live my JBA’s, no issues with them, or customer service, not that I’ve needed it though

Scrovak · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

Sorry guys, I edited my original post. I changed it to read: "I did not sand it AT all". This was my first time using Plastidip so I watched a bunch of videos online. The only prep required in every instance was to ensure you made sure there was no residual oils, dirt etc, on the parts to be painted. When I did my door badges I just washed them with car wash. On the grill and surround, since I could remove it, I used alcohol and wiped it down real good after washing it. I wore latex gloves to ensure no oils from my hands/fingers got on it. I did this in December and in my garage. It was pretty cold so I had a chicken coup heater running, and after each coat of paint I used my wife's hair dryer to heat it up and then let it cool down. This seemed to really smooth it out. The most important thing with Pastidip (or any paint for that matter) is to resist putting too much on at once. It took me at least 3 coats just to finally hide any look of chrome. I can't stress this enough how important this is. You want it to look almost dry after a minute or two. If you put too much at once it seems to not want to be as even and smooth looking.

I let the glossifier dry longer and hit it with more heat and longer than the paint. It took me all day for the grill. If it was not as cold I probably wouldn't have needed the hair dryer.

Oh, the one most important thing I left out, if it's colder (below 70 degrees), the paint and glossifier will not come out as smooth. It will come out more in a spritz/splatter pattern and you definitely do not want that. The one video I watched said that this sprays better when warm. Some said to wrap the can in a towel and put it in the dryer. Some said to keep the can in a container/pot/whatever with hot tap water in between coats. I opted for the warm water method. I did not want to buy a new dryer. I also warmed the can in the garage with the hair dryer as I moved from the grill to the grill surround.

I also sat the pieces up on those shims so I could hit all the edges. I did not do the insides at all. Definitely heat up the back of the grill emblem before removing it or the tabs will break off. I also recommend this for the tabs separating the grill/surround from the painted body part of the grill. Doing this when it is cold makes them easier to break.
Click to expand...

Great stuff Rob. Hopefully doing mine in the middle of August will help ensure warm enough application. How was badge removal? Was that just a little blow dryer and a careful yoink?

Scrovak · Aug 18, 2020

Devir7 said: ↑

Nice pointers!
I might be plastidiping my badges an tailgate letters green to match the coils. Will also have to do that to the JBAs if I get those.
Click to expand...

JBAs?

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

Devir7 said: ↑

Nice pointers!
I might be plastidiping my badges an tailgate letters green to match the coils. Will also have to do that to the JBAs if I get those.
Click to expand...

This might be easier and look better Eric. I prefer the 3D poly colored letters. They look the best I think.

https://www.ebay.com/i/282838797863...DQ2n1hcV2Se8OuROhvJTnbe2GvQlw_WQaAjD_EALw_wcB

Auto supply stores seems to have more of a color selection of Plastidip than any other place I have seen.

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

FIRE74 said: ↑

Hey @RobP62, all is good!
@AR15xAR10, live my JBA’s, no issues with them, or customer service, not that I’ve needed it though
Click to expand...

Corey! I'm so glad to hear that Brother, I was prayin' hard! Had me scared there for a minute. I'm sure the vehicle is totalled, no?

FIRE74 · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

Corey! I'm so glad to hear that Brother, I was prayin' hard! Had me scared there for a minute. I'm sure the vehicle is totalled, no?
Click to expand...

Yeah it’s totaled unfortunately, was my favorite build!!

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

Devir7 said: ↑

Nice pointers!
I might be plastidiping my badges an tailgate letters green to match the coils. Will also have to do that to the JBAs if I get those.
Click to expand...

I watched videos on doing badges too. They are simple.

Yes, there are Tacoma versions but this one was the best at showing exactly how to do this and how freaking easy it is. I followed this to a T and my door badges came out just as good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV_ULUKno5w

Scrovak said: ↑

Great stuff Rob. Hopefully doing mine in the middle of August will help ensure warm enough application. How was badge removal? Was that just a little blow dryer and a careful yoink?
Click to expand...

Talking about door badges or the center grill Toyota logo John? Middle of August is perfect, just watch the humidity. Do it in the garage if you can, with a fan running. Every time I paint something outside a bug will land on a part of whatever it is I am painting right where you can see it. The pisser is, it is always in the end when the job is perfect and it's my last coat.

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

FIRE74 said: ↑

Yeah it’s totaled unfortunately, was my favorite build!!
Click to expand...

Any chance the blue book will provide a decent replacement?

FIRE74 · Aug 18, 2020

Not on a 1992 LOL, but I have made an itemized list of all the mods for the “at fault” insurance company at their request, so hopefully that’ll help

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

FIRE74 said: ↑

Not on a 1992 LOL, but I have made an itemized list of all the mods for the “at fault” insurance company at their request, so hopefully that’ll help
Click to expand...

Well at least you have that goin' for ya. Will they let you get anything off it that is still usable?

Scrovak · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

I watched videos on doing badges too. They are simple.

Yes, there are Tacoma versions but this one was the best at showing exactly how to do this and how freaking easy it is. I followed this to a T and my door badges came out just as good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV_ULUKno5w

Talking about door badges or the center grill Toyota logo John? Middle of August is perfect, just watch the humidity. Do it in the garage if you can, with a fan running. Every time I paint something outside a bug will land on a part of whatever it is I am painting right where you can see it. The pisser is, it is always in the end when the job is perfect and it's my last coat.
Click to expand...

Talking door badges and the V6 on my tail gate. I may also employ the technique to paint my fuel door, and the front of my rear view mirrors.

RedDeadTaco · Aug 18, 2020

rcarpio19 said: ↑

Is this at Assateague Island?
Click to expand...

Yup!

RedDeadTaco · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

Where you at? Delaware? Yes, definitely more Taco-tacticool! Let me find them.

Edit - Drew, they make different types. My guess is with a Prinsu or UpTop type rack since we have similar brackets we would use the #5 kit.

https://arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/Quick-release-awning-bracketend-consumer.pdf

The damn kits are freaking expensive as hell if you ask me. It seems since you have to loosen nuts to detach it, this is more for people that have brackets in multiple locations and want to change the location of the awning based on your camp site setup. Not so much for someone like me that only has one location. So if I am gonna take it off/on I am going to do it at home and might as well just use power tools and do it while I'm having a beverage.

This is the cheapest I found that kit #5 though.
https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb...LpGR6lNYGgiWky4G54AJEGamZq3_2CShoCsKYQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...

Assateague. Yeah to expensive I’ll keep it on

hyrule_trd · Aug 18, 2020

Scrovak said: ↑

JBAs?
Click to expand...

The JBA upper control arms. Those are red, can see in the post at the top of this page. My coils are green. I didn’t like the idea of green coils and red UCAs lol. If my truck was white they’d be Christmas colors.

hyrule_trd · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

I watched videos on doing badges too. They are simple.

Yes, there are Tacoma versions but this one was the best at showing exactly how to do this and how freaking easy it is. I followed this to a T and my door badges came out just as good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV_ULUKno5w

Those eBay letters are tempting, though I have chrome ones on there now. I’ll use the same paint on all the stuff in the back, if I go that route. That way the colors will be the same.

Talking about door badges or the center grill Toyota logo John? Middle of August is perfect, just watch the humidity. Do it in the garage if you can, with a fan running. Every time I paint something outside a bug will land on a part of whatever it is I am painting right where you can see it. The pisser is, it is always in the end when the job is perfect and it's my last coat.
Click to expand...

Seems simple enough. I have a spray can of the green already. I did the start button ring a few months ago with the Meso mod.

Got something new today too!

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

Scrovak said: ↑

Talking door badges and the V6 on my tail gate. I may also employ the technique to paint my fuel door, and the front of my rear view mirrors.
Click to expand...

Badges are easy as pie and I only put like 4 or 5 coats on mine. The mirror backs come off so that is easy too. None of it needs to be prepped other that cleaning for Plastidip. Paint is a different story.

Scrovak · Aug 18, 2020

RobP62 said: ↑

Badges are easy as pie and I only put like 4 or 5 coats on mine. The mirror backs come off so that is easy too. None of it needs to be prepped other that cleaning for Plastidip. Paint is a different story.
Click to expand...

On the one hand, I DO want to paint them. On the other hand, some wise TWer recommended plastidipping them before I paint them, to see if I like it. With enough layers and that glossifier you mentioned earlier, it may have the longevity necessary to forego replacing it with paint.

RobP62 · Aug 18, 2020

Scrovak said: ↑

On the one hand, I DO want to paint them. On the other hand, some wise TWer recommended plastidipping them before I paint them, to see if I like it. With enough layers and that glossifier you mentioned earlier, it may have the longevity necessary to forego replacing it with paint.
Click to expand...

Just wrap them, or plastidip them. They come off easy.

https://youtu.be/2Qth3PQGKDo

( @Russty__ @Devir7 )

I'm thinking about wrapping mine.

Or just buy unpainted.

https://www.ebay.com/p/8029747339?i...AjhjRHWnjZzrfhuWFitTFg9NmzQhEUTAaAldJEALw_wcB

rcarpio19 · Aug 18, 2020

Scrovak said: ↑

On the one hand, I DO want to paint them. On the other hand, some wise TWer recommended plastidipping them before I paint them, to see if I like it. With enough layers and that glossifier you mentioned earlier, it may have the longevity necessary to forego replacing it with paint.
Click to expand...

My vote is plastidipping. Easy enough to peel off if you're tired of the look.

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