NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Yeah my only issue with them is they are hard as a rock but thats my 700lb springs and valving. I had planned to add a winch, dual battery, and a light bar in the front but haven’t yet b

 

theres your problem...

 

I've had those in my wish list for who knows how long. I found them to be recommended somewhere. May have been Expo Portal.

 

I have 700, and winch but need to re-valve as well. I love the anti dive I currently have compared to some others I’ve drive but it needs to be a tad softer.


So I’m interested to know your shim stack setup if you get to it soon.

 

yeah I’m on 700lb Springs too but I have a winch and an old all pro modular bumper. Also super charger which is slightly heavier than the stock intake. And the front rides fine for me.

 

I’ll keep you posted. Should know after this weekend.

 

I have one due to a friend of mine having a few and giving me one. Luckily I haven't needed it yet, but it looks fairly straight forward and easy to use. It's one of those things that more then likely you'll never need, but if you do need it, your glad you have it. As for size, I really don't know. My buddy just handed me one.

 

Wow! I didn’t know these existed. I just ordered a pair. In the last 10 years I’ve peeled out two valve stems getting in ruts that have tree roots in them. @Usethe2nd they come in two packs. I doubt I would need two at any given time though. I would be willing to sell you the spare for $15.

 

I'm on 700lb springs too, even with a winch up front they are a bit stiff, I went to them mostly wanting the 14" over the 13" springs that came on them but I think I might've gotten away with 14" 650lb springs instead. Although if I ever get the mid and t-case skids I want it might add enough weight to justify the 700lb springs. I think part of the stiffness is the E-load rated tires I'm on, if I could find something I like in a D-load I think that would make a big difference too.

I'm interested to see how the valving change goes for you, I was interested in a change last time I rebuilt but had not idea how to go about it but might want to change things up next time around.

 

And no more than 2" total. I'm at like 1.9" lol. I think I can lower it down a bit now that I don't rub on my cab mount when stuffed after my cmc.

 

The jump from 650's to 700's was what I had been looking for, gained another 1/2" of lift, was able to lessen the preload and on road the front end is firm in the corners without the away bar. Shit I can't wait to put them back on. @Greddy I might just see you down at jims this weekend, not sure what my ole lady has planned yet.

I agree the E rated tires probably compound the rough/stiff feedback making it seem like the coilovers are just insanely stiff. My next set of tires will be a D.

 

lol this wrecked one of my tires I think probably going to need to do 35s earlier rather than later as I planned to after this set of 33s. Is it even worth up sizing if I don’t do gears. I think I recently saw someone say to just do gears first.

 

What I've gathered from reading bunch of reviews, if you went from 31-33-35 without regearing, the power loss isnt too noticable. But if you jump from 31-35 its gonna suck. Probably better to regear before you get 35s, but I think I'll go 35s first then regear.

 

I planned on a regear after I mount the 35s, if its a hog on the road I'll just swap back to my 33s until I am able to get in somewhere local for a gear swap.

 

I went from 33’s to 35’s without regearing, it’s doable but very noticeable...and the fuel mileage is shitty....and i replaced my clutch because of it...

 

regear before you crazy off road, learn from me and my exploded gears

 

Yeah you don't notice it when you get used to it over 40k miles or so

 

I get around 17-18 city, 20-21 hwy as is. I'm hoping the hit on mpgs wont be too bad since I'm going to get either a light tire (MTR) or a skinny one (10.5 kendas).

 

Didn't you have an e-locker failure?