Help: CV Axle Won't Go In!

Just got my differentials regeared and stuck on the installation.. My driver side CV axle won't fully insert into the front clamshell... It will insert smoothly, but gets stuck on the last 1/4" or so... Ive tried messing with the snap ring to fit tighter in the groove and I also have the weight of the cv axle supported go the UCA via zipties..

Anyone had this problem or any tips?

 

Another pic

 

When I did mine a few weeks ago, I had to set a pry bar into one of those indents near the differential, and drive it in with a hammer

 

How much did you have to force it in? Ive been trying to hammer it in with no luck. Thats why I gave up and tried messing with the snap ring. I also stuck my finger in the diff and haven't felt any burrs..

 

To clarify:

Take the pry bar relatively parallel to the CV axle. Place the tip into one of those divets, then strike the handle/end of the pry bar to drive in the CV. was a pain but that was the only way I could get those to seat.

 

It took a nearly uncomfortable amount of force. A decent 2 or 3 lb sledge hammer works. I think I used a 35 lb dumbbell in a pinch lol

 

@eon_blue

 

Another tip, especially if you go with a Javier object for striking. Using lots of lighter strikes lessened your chance of marring or breaking anything. 3-5 swings with a dumbbell eased mine in by a fraction of an inch each time until it was seated!

 

So now I've tried compressing the axle and using a large mallet to drive it in by pounding on the outboard end of the axle. Still no movement.

I'm starting to wonder if this is the correct axle

 

Does anyone know if regearing and adding a locker in the front clamshell would somehow require a different (shorter) CV axle?

 

Called Toyota. They say there's only one type of axle for this truck. Said it doesn't matter if it's ADD or non-ADD....

I've tried the tip offered by @timmah. Put grease on the c-clip and oriented the opening downward when inserting the axle. Thinking I may have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

 

Unless you get it towed on a bed, you don't want to leave the diff end and the axle hub end like that without an axle in place.

I've read about people fucking up their wheel bearing; then you'd really have a bigger issue.

 

That gap looks just about normal to me, might be able to go in a little further. If its leaking gear oil then you'll know it's not enough, rotate the axle a few times to see.

Either hammer it with a pry bar on the indentations in the axle housing or thread the axle nut onto the end and hammer it in by hitting the axle nut.

 

That's not true. Non ADD axles don't use a threaded axle nut on end. I got a non ADD axle from the dealership once by mistake and it would not work. There's no axle nut to be put on the end of theirs. Sounds like that employee didn't know what they were talking about.

 

That looks fully seated to me. Are you not feeling the snap ring setting into place?

 

Yeah I was going to comment that and say "disregard anything Toyota says"

Manual hub axles use a washer and snap ring in lieu of the 35mm bolt.

 

If you do it this way make sure you use the other axle nut as locking nut in front of the one you plan to hit. Just put them both on and lock them tight on each other. There is way less chance of damaging the threads on the shaft or the nut this way.

I'd also agree that gap 1/4" or less is fairly "normal". My driver side has a gap and my passenger side does not. If it where me I'd just finish putting the front together and drive it. Test 4wd on gravel/dirt. If that works, which it will, go ahead and keep on eye on the diff for leaks. The seal sits inboard so that gap really has no affect on it leaking or not.

 

The opening of the snap ring needs to be on the bottom when you slide the axle in.

 

Yeah I learned that the hard way lol. First time I did that I didn't put the axle nut on the end and I buggered the threads, cross threaded the axle nut and ruined my wheel bearing 300 miles later lol. Was an expensive lesson

 

Yep. I did the same but boogered the shaft threads about 1/4" in. I cut the end off very carefully with my sawzall and managed to make it work. I knew better but was in a hurry and pissed. Those two never go well together when I wrench. lol