And they dont fit

I was dreaming about making a template for my router last night. I do sheetrock for a living. I could roto zip the hell out of it. I also have plenty titanium bits on hand. Then I realized the taper probly couldn't fix it with durabond.

 

I'm wondering how far off it is. It's amazing the thickness of some coatings.

 

What wheels do you have on the truck now? Make sure there isn't a hubcentric spacer left on the hub - easy to miss since it could be only 1mm thick.

If it's just the paint or powdercoat on the bore making it tight, you can slowly sand it down with a Dremel. Move the sanding wheel in a circular motion to ensure the hole remains round.

 

I cleaned up hub quite a bit. I have a little nore work but they fit. No wiggle.

 

Nice. Mine were tight and I had to knock down the high spots with some scotch bright but you went the whole 9 yards. Those are some clean hubs. Going to put anything on them to keep the corrosion down now that they are so clean?

 

Fluid Film works well here. Just avoid getting it on the wheel studs.

 

Does fluid film stay tacky? Or dry to a hard coating?

 

Stays tacky. Next time you remove the wheel, a few squirts of Spray Nine dissolves the Fluid Film readily, leaving a clean surface.

 

use never seize

 

I just want to thank everyone a bunch. I will pick up some fluid film in the morning. I wont get them installed till next week but I will have some photos for sure.

 

New Falkens. Moved up to 265 70 16. Had it up to 90 on highway. Smooth sailing

 

CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor dries to a paint like surface, therefore it doesn't attract much dust and debris. It is also pretty durable. Getting it off or a chore, though. Acetone or toluene/xylol works pretty good.

 

I just used the CRC heavy duty marine grade stuff on my truck tool boxes seems to be very good stuff