Did my larger battery cause this?

Read that again. Real slow. Lol

 

Why not use an Earth X battery. They are light, durable and approved for light aircraft. 80% lighter than the same lead acid battery.
https://earthxbatteries.com/

 

You would need a really really good engineer lol.

 

Meh? Just a good model and some tool making knowledge. Both layers could probably be done on one tool assuming a bit of installation flex.

I know there are some 3rd Gen models out there. 3D scanning could do the trick also.

 

read my lips>.use the OEM Battery that came with the truck 123k miles cant be wrong and no front end damages

 

Thanks, ass, I know the difference between my radiator support area and my battery area. This is on my passenger side so I know it wasn't caused by the battery.

 

Cost for one. Lithium also doesn't like high temps under the hood. Lithium car batteries aren't that much lighter than lead/acid.

 

Where do you live.

 

Which model would be equivalent for our trucks? How would they handle accessory cycling? Fridge, lights, winch, etc... I'm very intrigued by this option.

Any Cons for a lithium battery over lead acid in a vehicle application? How do they handle extreme temps?

 

But you'd need to engineer what to reinforce, where to etc. If not, I feel like where ever the reinforcement stopped, the crack would begin again.

 

Mine cracked with a 27F in it, if you go hard you don’t even need to put in extra weight. If you put in extra weight, you don’t have to go that hard.

 

east coast, its about 100 degrees right now, around the same area as the OP,

 

Homeboys a troll. Don't feed em. #iamverysmart

 

The biggest battery killer is extreme heat or cold for prolonged periods. I just installed my 3rd battery for a 2013 with 130k. We haven't had a single day under 100 since early May and there are least another 45 days to go.

Typically the batteries last for 3 summers and it doesn't really matter if you install a cheap battery or expensive.

 

just don't install 2 batterys or your front panel might rip

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cracked-sheet-metal-above-radiator-body-bushings.636828/

 

wow that really sucks, what a mess

 

I love you Tacomaworld, but sometimes you guys just don't read all the things. I don't have a dual battery. In fact, a main reason I avoided a dual battery system was that I had heard of problems just like this from having the weight of both batteries in the stock location. I have one AGM in the stock location that weights 49 pounds. How much could the stock battery weigh? Forty pounds? If a nine pound difference is all it took to cause this, then the cause of this breakage was the wheeling I do, NOT the weight of the battery and the stock battery would have ended in the same results.

 

That's where the model comes in.

For this area, it is not hard to determine where the loads are coming from. The crack seems to be starting at the pressed contours and holes in the sheet metal. The reactions are at the cab mounts on either end of the wheel well. Take the R/F back to where the stresses are lower or the forming is more uniform and life should be good.

This is done all the time in aircraft repairs. I am thinking that a good structural epoxy would eliminate the need for a big fastener pattern since it appears to be a stress / flaw issue versus a material strength issue. The fasteners would mainly be used to set and maintain the bond.

 

Just calling me a troll because you don’t like what I’m saying.