TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

On a factory tundra it is separate all the way to the muffler and then it merges together. On my truck with the spec.U exhaust it is separate and equal length all the way until behind the transfer case. Then merges into a 3" and goes through resonator then I split it to go into the muffler where it merged again. I was really hoping all the back and forth would mitigate the raspy sound but nope. May try putting another resonator or glass pack on after the axle to see if that will soak up the raspy tone.

 

Thank you all!!

Really appreciate all the info and support this thread/forum offers. I just got back from a big trip up to Glacier (1500 miles) and the truck has been running really well. I was so stressed with it breaking down two weeks before this trip.


Question,
I need to change the oil. I'm not looking to start an oil debate. Wondering if others have found/seen this site, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/. The amount of information in it is astounding.
Looking at filters I see in the OP it has one oil filter, https://www.walmart.com/ip/WIX-51516XP-XP-Oil-Filter/165063753
On the site I found it seems like the owner dissects filters, following link to the one he feels is the best and seems like it should work on our trucks. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-cm6731fl820?filters=year/2015/make/toyota/model/tacoma/

Below has been taken from his site:

Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) # CM-6731-FL820
Made in the U.S.A.
Mounting thread is Metric 22mm x 1.5
Mounting seal OD = 2.91″, ID = 2.47″
Outer casing wall thickness = .022″, which is 83% thicker than the standard Ford Motorcraft FL-820S just below. That provides much better burst strength protection. This filter has the same outer dimensions as the standard Ford Motorcraft FL-820S. So, it holds the same impressive .7 of a quart of oil (read as 7 tenths of a quart of oil) as the standard FL-820S. This FRPP oil filter media provides an EXTREMELY impressive 250 square inches of filtering surface area, which is 25% more than the standard Ford Motorcraft FL-820S just below.

That extra filtering surface area means less restriction to oil flowing through the filter, which in turn means less pressure drop going through the filter. So, more pressure on the outlet side of the filter, means more oil flow can be pushed through the engine. Flow is lubrication, and of course that is very important in racing conditions. Ultimately, an engine’s bearing clearances determine how just how much oil can flow through it at a given pressure. But, the extra pressure and flow coming from a less restrictive oil filter, helps ensure that the engine is provided as much oil as the oiling system is capable of providing.

And a lower restriction oil filter can also benefit daily driver vehicles as well. Here’s why. The lower the filter restriction, the less the bypass valve will open during cold start-up and during warm-up driving. That means less unfiltered oil flowing through the engine. So, if you are looking for the best oil filter for your daily driver, or your weekend Hotrod that doesn’t actually go to the track, this oil filter is well worth considering.

This oil filter is extremely well made with quality parts. Its filter media is glued well to its end caps. And it has a far superior, more costly, metal bypass valve assembly design, which is located at the top just under the threads, which prevents any debris in the bottom of the filter from entering the engine when the bypass opens. In addition to that, its bypass valve assembly is very well sealed at its installation joint location, so that dirty oil cannot make its way past the joint. It also has a thicker outer casing wall than a standard oil filter, as indicated above. And it also has a higher quality rubber mounting seal. All in all, the design quality, the specs, the features, the capabilities, and the construction quality, justify this being called a Racing Oil Filter.

CONCLUSION:
This Top Tier oil filter is the “BEST of the BEST” designed and constructed Automotive spin-on oil filter I have seen. I will now be using this oil filter on some of my own vehicles. And at the beginning of 2020, it cost only $17.00 at Summit Racing Equipment, which makes it one of the very best “cost vs quality” values around. Here are some oil filters that this Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) # CM-6731-FL820 oil filter can directly replace:

Ford Motorcraft # FL-820S
Wix # 51372
Purolator # L24651
Fram # PH2
AC Delco # PF1250
Champ # PH820


As much as I don't like putting Ford stuff on my truck (Roush tensionier), I'm contemplating the above filter. Thoughts?

 

Supposed too however a solution would be a vacuum system to introduce coolant leaving no air pockets however i would rec having that resi at the highest point. But gotta work with what ya got.

 

nice that only works if your a MT then since it goes across. On the Auto its in front of master which was my issues. I had a power try there before. My plan was to go horizontal back to the firewall instead of across. I mocked it up. let me see if I have a reference.

 

I’m an auto- in the pic that’s my brake master cylinder next to the coolant res.
I did also cut off the corner closest to the vacuum lines coming off the super charger.

 

I'm another that has largely good experiences with the UCON. I've got a lot of bolts-ons and the Ucon does a real good job of running the engine. One of the reasons I've stuck with the UCON was because of the 7th injector. I don't need the extra fuel because I have 650cc or so injectors, but I like the idea of the cooling and cleaning effect the fuel has on the supercharger and heat exchanger.

I'm also not a big proponent of the FPR mod as I feel like if you have proper injectors and engine management, the fuel system should have consistent fuel pressures and let the ECU should command additional fuel. But here again, I love the 2.5" pulley with full exhaust. From what I remember (its been a while since I've driven the truck) It hauled the mail.

My only quibble, which I thought was related to the UCON but it sounds like a wider issue, was the occasional acceleration hesitation from a stop. Its only for a couple of seconds and the power comes on quick after this. Can't wait to figure that one out.

 

Each truck is it’s own beast! When I had the apr x1 I did have that hesitation from a stop, but ucon cleared that up for me. Plus I’m only rocking 265/70/17 so wheels easy to spin from a stop. I do have a 7th injector but also still running the trd yellow injectors. Should data log for duty cycles.

 

hey @DocME what lid did you use? i have the same tank in the same place. the canton lid is very tall limiting space.

 

I should get a pic of how my coolant reservoir is sitting in there. I am an auto but a off-road so my tank should be mounted over on the fender but I have a Co-Be Motorsports switch bank in that location so mine is just balancing on the bracket.


oh and I took two videos last night in mexico. On acceleration with the windows down and one acceleration with the windows up. Just need to load them.

 

i believe youre correct. also less likely to leak. why radiator caps are at a high point.

 

My engine bay after a cleaning.

 

I have the Canton lid now. It's shiny. It is tight on space, but it fits. The lid in the picture is just a FO MO CO lid. If I knew where this lid was, I'd send it to you.

 

i have the canton overpriced lid. test fitting took time. im curious on the mounting assembly you went with.

 

Same for me with the UCON

 

Might be into one of the rare differences between the FJ and the Tacoma. I used a piece of aluminum to make an L shaped bracket. I used rivnuts to make a mounting solution on the inner fender. Then the lower portion of the L bracket has two rivnuts that correspond to the bolt holes in the reservoir.

 

I too have to say the that the Ucon has treated me well. I mean it would be sweet if it somehow got me to a consistant 18-20 mpg. But nothing will do that so it is doing its job.

 

I had a bad experience with my UCon right out of the box. Had one bank going lean under wot and couldn't figure out what was causing it for a while. Ended up being something with the circuit boards/internals that caused the issue.. after URD replaced the internals the truck has run great for the most part. The only exception was when I tried swapping to 61lb injectors. They just didn't want to play nice with my UCon and wouldn't idle right and also had issues going lean when wot. I threw the 455s on and got a 7th and added water/meth and called it a day. I really like my UCon, it's perfect for how much I change my mind and swap exhausts and pullies, just reset the battery and let it relearn the tune. Ultimately though, I wouldn't be here without the awesome folks in here that helped me troubleshoot and track down the issue. Y'all are the reason my truck is running as good as it is now, so thanks everyone

 

Count me in on this. I did a self fab from a couple sheets of galvanized metal. It works but is definitely V1 for me. Was considering shifting to a repurposed baking pan to cut up and fab into place. I generally suck at metal work, so a purpose built plate that accommodates the OR brake setup + the resi has my attention

 

I guess I should clarify Offroad/pro models with the electronic master. They mount it differently. That would have given me more options for sure. Part of me did consider mounting it there.

 

Yep, this is my mockup with cardboard. for the switch pro it would sit at the end lower and possibly at an angle but should work if I can get it right. would ideally anchor with a bolt on the master too. I saw it on a similar plate. I’ll def let you guys know. I noted there are some boosted folks that would be interested