Shake/hop from rear at 42-55 mph (SOLVED)

Greased u joints all of them were fine. Fresh grease now. Still doing it. Also it does the same thing in 4wd same speed

 

Brake tap test is next . We need to eliminate the converter
Read the instructions carefully , road test and post back

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

 

Did you pull the driveshaft to inspect them? I have had a ujoint cause vibes around 40-50 mph and it looked fine under the truck, couldn't find any play in it. But after removing the driveshaft it was obviously bad.

 

How true .

The only way to properly check for bad universal joints is by removing the driveshaft

 

Do you have a broken rear spring in that add a leaf pack - look carefully? Mileage on it and no blown shock?
Coming from front or rear? Stock wheels or aftermarket not self centering? Search goes on but I would sure rebalance those tires again.

 

Might be a shock. I’ll check the pack again but it looked good. Coming from rear. Pro comp 9005 wheels ( they were fine for a whole set of tires previous to my current ones)

 

Sorry for being stuck on loop here, but if you do get the tires rebalanced, watch the balancing if possible. They can be zeroed out and still have a natural hop due to inconsistent rubber density (though I've only seen this with offbrand tires like westlakes, walmart stuff, you know, but even the big names have recalls once in a while). You'd see the hop while they're run on the balancer.. if there's any at all, there's too much.

 

Good to know your rims are aftermarket .
Considering your factory rims are hub centric, do you buy chance know if the pro comp rims are hub centric like the factory rims or are they lug centric ?
Even though the wheels are balanced correctly , a lug centric rim mounted on a spindle designed for hub centric rims can cause serious balance issues .
Hub centric rings are available for this issue just in case you dont find anything else

 

The strange thing is I had these same wheels on my last set of general tires that did not have this issue.

 

Keeps coming back to the tires.

 

general puts out some big chunky tires that are geared toward offroading. These ain't mud tires (or something else sporting), are they? I got some looks when I asked to have the wheels on my XR650L balanced.
Tires geared towards just offroad stuff, to my knowledge, don't get balanced.. because if you're taking them onto beat up terrain, you won't notice.
This can often be indicated by complete lack of mileage warranty (also the case with racing slicks and super high performance street tires).

 

Ok so i has the tires rebalanced and they all checked out perfect. But I think I learned something driving home tonight, the vibe seems to be rpm/ drive shaft rpm dependent. So for instance, the frequency in D at 42 mph seems to be slower than the same speed in 3. I was under the truck today making sure everything in the rear end (u bolts, shackles, leafs, carrier bushing) was correctly torqued and everything checked out. Which leads me to the shape of the center carrier bushing....... how do I know it’s past it’s time ? I don’t want to just throw parts at my truck that it dosent need.

 

im thinking your new tires are alot heavier than your old tires and your getting a little axle wrap. put a gopro underneith on one of your side bars pointing back at the rear differencial and take a drive. when you feel the vibration is the pinion kinda rotated up and bouncing and the drive shaft pushing up on the carrier bearing?

 

Did the GoPro thing and it’s not from the tires being heavier (the grabber ATX are actually lighter than the grabber AT2’s) and no axle wrap or driveshaft movement. Dropped my tire pressure on the rear from 31 to 29, which seems a bit low to me, and it’s all but gone......

I feel the rear shocks may be the problem. I’ll be replacing them and hopefully that does the trick.

 

The suspension in the rear is that bad?? Is the shock back there oily, or is it a sneaky leak? Also those can be easily diagnosed by just pushin' down on the corners of a vehicle.
Also very sorry for asking you to re-inspect the tires! That shock must be toast.

 

No there is no oil and I don’t really think the shock is blown or seized but I can’t seem to come up with any other reason that would happen. But dropping 2 psi seemed to solve the problem or at least 95% of it. So I’m out of ideas at this point

 

Were those same set of wheels road force balanced and mounted using the Haweka adapter ?
The proper way to balance a 2nd gen tire is using the Haweka adapter during tire mounting to the rim and then road force balancing the wheel . Skip one of these steps and you will have balance issues
We still dont know if you followed this Toyota procedure ?
Hoping your Uncle did it properly

 

Honestly not sure how he actually did the balancing but it was fine the same way when I had grabber at2 and the atx. They have been the same wheels the entire time though. Also I know it’s 100% not the rear shocks because I changed them yesterday and it’s still doing it. I was due for them soon anyways so I’m not super upset but I’m getting pretty frustrated.

 

Well, I did some reading last night to educate myself a bit and stumbled on something long forgotten. bigger tires may not reach the needed speed to show bounce while on a standard balancer because their rotation is slower compared to OEM stuff.
But outta desire to give chance for you to avoid another tire shop -
Why not jack up the rear of the truck and give the wheels back there the shake test in all directions, see if a bad bearing could be your culprit.. I really just dont wanna send you off to look for a shop with a hunter roadforce balancer.

To clarify: your relative could be totally free of fault. Do a perfect job, but be subject to the tool at hand. I think there's other good balancers out there, but the hunters are the one i know of.. the roadforce balance has a roller on it that measures, you guessed it, force. from hops n such.
if it's the issue, it can be handled quick by swapping the tires for ride quality before its too late. 30 days.

 

Ok so. Popped the driveshaft out. Put it in 4wd drove in FWD mode for a few miles and it was as smooth as glass. So it’s not a tire/ balancing issue.
All the u joints are perfect. The slip joint is good and the center bushing is in good shape.

which leads me to believe the angles are not correct. Weird that it’s popping up now after like 40k of being lifted.

going to try to space the carrier down some more and if that dosent make it better than I guess axle shims ?