Polishing a "TuRD"

Early trucks never even had it

 

Ah, makes sense thanks! Ive heard of FIPGs as liquid gasket or gasket paste, or similar. Thanks for the link on the Flitz, I'll keep that stuff in mind in case I ever need it!

 

Also, on the Flitz....most all the local gun stores stock it as well.

 

Dang, how about I ship my SRunner to you to keep you busy for a while. Yours looks outstanding. Got to get busy on my “Mater”. Guess I’m going buffing wheel shopping.

 

Not my cup of tea, but awesome work!

 

You're attention to detail is unreal! My truck wouldn't stay clean for 5 mins, but it is awesome to see one so clean! I'd imagine someone would pay a pretty penny for a truck as clean as yours.

 

Seriously going to consider doing this soon. I clean the outside and in of mine like it’s a Ferrari but that metal polishing is something else.

 

PAINT / CLEAR COAT CORRECTION AND MANAGING EXPECTATIONS

Wanted to share my experience with attempting to "correct" paint / clear coat damage. Again, I can't stress enough that everyone has a different approach to issues and this is just the approach I took.
I think it's also important to manage your expectations...........meaning that you know it's not going to be perfect.
A couple of years ago I noticed some small, white, cloudy spots right behind the passenger side door (toward bottom). I even posted on TW about it, and everyone was right!!!......clear coat damage. Again, I purchased the truck new, and no accidents. Also, it's such an odd spot for clear coat damage. I expected the hood or top of the truck.
Took it to 3 different body shops and every single one of them quoted about $800 to correct. Why so much?????? because they said they would have to paint the entire rear panel and possibly over the top of the truck to match. I even explained that I didn't expect it to be perfect, I just wanted to slow the process down or at least just reapply clear coat on that area. They won't do that due to warranty, etc. They stated that I may have run over some sort of chemical in the road, etc., which weakened the clear coat.

So I thought I would apply some 3M Clear Protective tape over the area. Mistake! That made it stick out worse because the protective tape is shiny clear and it made the spots under neath pop!!
About a week later I tried removing as slow as humanly possible, and as you can see in the picture below it look like fido's rear afterwards.

So, I had to do something before this cancer spread. There were some areas of the base coat that didn't match due to fading. I tried just spritzing a small amount of Duplicolor Color Match, but it was no where close. @yarb71 and I have the same complaint. Way to shiny and to much metallic flake

I then ordered a can of automotive base paint (spray can) from automotivetouchup.com (link below). This was a much better match. I wasn't expecting it to be perfect due to fading, so I just lightly spritzed the area.
After about 30 minutes I then applied two light coats of USC SprayMax2K (link below). This is a 2 component clear coat. Lastly, I applied a heavy coat.
Waited about 45 minutes and slowly peeled back the tape around the area, and let it dry for two days before removing the remaining tape/paper.
For me, it turned out awesome! Is it perfect..no, but that's okay.
As for prep..I removed any clear that I could but I did not do any sanding. I didn't want to damage the base paint. I also just used rubbing isopropyl alcohol 90% to wipe it down.
I'll provide some additional pictures the next time I pull the truck out.

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/toyota/2003/tacoma/

$25 USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082LJMC6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Wow that is beautiful. Do you have any tips for detailing the engine bay?

 

Brahms I'm sure it would depend on what condition the motor is to start with. It's definitely not a one and done process. Meaning, I'm probably either under the hood or truck at a minimum of once every two weeks. But, as TW Member Slander stated, that's not for everyone, but it's good stress relief for me and I enjoy it.

I detailed the engine on my friends '04 Tacoma 3.4l, and I just about wore out a engine brush like the one below to get the oil/grime out of the nooks of the motor. I was trying to be careful to not damage the brittle plastic under the throttle body and intake.
Also helps if you do a lot of the work on the motor yourself. Even when I purchased this truck new, it would make me ill as a hornet the way the dealership would make a mess at changing the oil/filter. I understand on the 3.4l that it's usually messy getting the oil filter off, but damn, at least wipe the old oil off the motor, etc. That's why after about the 2nd time, I started doing it myself. With the skid plates off, you can access most everything under the truck.

 

I thought my truck was clean until Jammer posted some pics a few months ago. I realize now that there is “clean” and then there is “Jammer clean”. My truck is “clean“ but Jammer should have his truck on ramps behind a velvet rope at SEMA with mirrors on the floor so you can see the undercarriage.

 

lol...Thank you Kevin!

 

My god what have a stumbled upon...it seems like you have way more patience than most car owners. I'm just happy if I can go a day without something falling off of my truck from rust. I envy you

 

honestly. If i went to look at this truck to purchase, I would be suspicious as to why its so clean. What leaks is he trying to hide?? lol

 

Lol...yeah I watch some of the Copart walk arounds and rebuilds on YouTube and I hear those guys say that a lot. “I wanna see an honest engine”.
If the trans fluid is red (freshly changed) it’s “well they must have been trying to fix the transmission”

 

Bit of Toyota history...
If you have an original oem power steering rack, you'll see "TOYODA" stamped on the front.

 

I told you all in the beginning I'm a Toyota Nerd and in upcoming post my plan is to point out all the identifying numbers, etc., on the motor.
Not sure if they put the Transmission Type on the transmission drain plug anymore??

Pic of the drain plug on my '03.

 

J A Y, I see a lot of opportunities in that one picture!

 

jammer, what do you use for exterior trim like the cowl by the windshield
mines turned grayish like the hair on my head has lol
i've tried a variety of dressings but it seems to EASILY wash right off every time it rains or when i bathe it

 

J A Y, this is from a post back in 2019. I'll add that I if you are looking for something less expensive, but still looks oem and holds up well is SEM Trim Black 39413. I'd suggest using an adhesive promoter when painting plastic.

After trying numerous products without good results, I finally repainted my fender flares.
I royally screwed up my fender flares a couple of years ago by applying a vinyl dressing similar to "Back n Black". I can't remember the name. It left streaks that I could not remove. I tried the Mr. Clean Pads, 0000 steel wool, dawn dish detergent, etc.
I've been using the 303 Aerospace Protectant on the flares to mask as much of the streaking as possible.
So, on a 4-Runner forum I saw a review on Eastwoods Plastic Resurfacer Matt Black Aerosol. After reading about the product and reviews, I purchased one can of the Resurfacer, and one can of Pre Painting Prep.
I'll be the first to say, it's expensive at basically $29 for one can, but the results are awesome. One can was enough to do all 4.
Steps taken to paint:

• Washed the fender flares with Dawn dish washing detergent to strip away dirt / road grime / vinyl dressing, etc.
• Used the painting prep to wipe down all the fender flares. Lol... (Streaks were still visible even after using that)
• I was out of the usual "butcher paper to mask off what I did not want painted, so I "found" some Christmas paper in the closet. Come Christmas I'll be like, "I don't know nuttin" about the Christmas paper.
• Important - Shake the can, shake the can, shake the can.
• It states on Eastwood's site and the can to apply 2 to 4 light coats, waiting approximately 5min between each coat.

Notes from my experience:

• It almost appears you aren't putting on enough, but after each coat flashes off, it dries even.
• Dries quickly. *Can states to allow 8 hours to fully cure. I went back after an hour to remove the masking tape/paper and it was dry to the touch.
• Sprays well with no dripping from the spray nozzle or spraying "blobs" of paint.
• Only wish is that they had a Satin finish in edition to the Matte finish.
• Would i purchase again.........Yes.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-plastic-resurfacer-matte-black-aerosol.html