How to: AC outlet in cab + 400 Watt Anytime Mod 2nd gen

ohh, wait, harbor freight' 400W priced $30, so, looks like question answered

 

Okay so I finally got a chance to work on my 400 watt mod and test everything to report back for the guys with manual trans, on what is actually required to pull this mod off on a manual truck.

So the blue/black wire is clutch switch wire, the violet/white wire is speed sensor wire, and the solid violet wire is neutral safety switch. The confusion lied around wether or not the solid violet wire (neutral safety) had to be ground or not.

On a manual trans truck you will notice that the plug that comes from under the dash doesn’t even have a solid violet wire going to it. In the picture it should be the pin slot to the left of the blue/black wire (clutch switch) which you can see is empty.

However the other side of the plug going to the invertor does have the solid violet wire. You can see that in this picture (Don’t mind the red heat shrink you can see on the ends that is the solid violet wire and it’s right next to blue/black) So in the factory configuration this solid violet wire can never receive a signal.

So one would think this violet wire doesn’t need anything to make this mod work on a manual trans. Especially since we don’t have neutral safety switches. However that is not the case. As soon as you remove or cut the blue/black wire (clutch switch) to do this mod you will loose 400 watt mode entirely (doesn’t matter if your parked or not) until you ground the solid violet wire.

It seems that the invertor relies on a signal from the clutch wire (even when pedal is not depressed, I didn’t test it far enough to know but maybe it has 12v all the time and when the clutch is pushed it breaks that 12v signal I’m not sure) but when it no longer receive that signal from the blue/black wire (clutch switch) the invertor reverts to wanting ground from the solid violet wire (neutral safety switch).

So in order to complete this mod on a manual transmission you need to cut/de pin the blue/black wire (clutch switch). You need to cut/de pin the violet/white wire (speed sensor). And you also need to cut the solid violet wire and extend it to ground.

Basically the only difference between manual and auto trans is the blue/black wire (clutch switch). Auto trans guys won’t have that wire and will have to do just the solid violet wire to ground and cut/de pin the violet/white wire

 

"Your" not "The"...you didn't understand post #1


"Solid violet wire. (cut and cap off the side that is not connected to the inverter) then the other end, extend and connect it to a ground."

 

With all due respect that’s a pretty rude thing to say don’t ya think? I’m just trying to help people on here. Sorry if I upset you...

I didn’t have any confusion on the solid violet wire originally. I had confusion on the violet/white. I quoted your comment becasue when I was looking for help one of your comments was that the solid violet wire was for A/T only. Which to me means you were confused about the correct thing to do with the violet wire. That comment made me confused about wether or not I did it right and if I was supposed to or if I really had to ground it or not. Remember I had originally grounded it so I had no confusion there until your comment. But I said I would post back with result once I got the mod right wether or not the solid violet to ground was really for A/T only or if it was for both.

In fact most of our comments on here including mine about how my manual trans truck didn’t even have the solid violet coming into it and the diagrams could also make it confusion for someone who reads further into this and I wanted to make sure I cleaned that up.

I see what your saying about how it is mentioned in the OP comment. However the way it is written isn’t completely clear. I misinterpreted what was for manual and what was for auto when it came to the violet/white wire and I’m sure I can’t be the only one.

 

I searched but didn't find it. Not worried about 400 watts Auto trans. When I put it in drive inverter shuts off after 1 minute. How ca I get it to stay on?

 

It should stay on. Something is wrong, thinking a overload is tripping on the inverter.

 

Doesn't trip when in park. Exactly 60 seconds. I set a timer and reset inverter every minute for an hour. Then it dropped to 45 seconds. Maybe the brick is pulling too much?

 

I know this thread has long been silent, but do you know if this is possible in a tacoma that does not have the plug in the bed? I would assume there is no inverter and no wire running where you described...

 

Correct.

 

I was thinking about putting in an inverter of my own in that case. It looks like others here (from other threads) have had luck with 600w inverters, but cautioned that anything with more power would stress the alternator too much. Thoughts?

 

I'm not ignoring your question, but I don't know the answer. Sorry.

 

No worries at all. For others, this is where I am primarily compiling my info from:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-inverter-install.567642/
And the warnings against it:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-inverter-cobra-1500w.294804/
And
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1000w-power-inverter-on-a-2011-tacoma.645953/

Still open to any opinions.

 

Here’s mine. Nothing special, but sure is nice to have some extra power in the cab. I wired the 12v stuff directly to the battery. I put in a small fuse block For interior power while I was at it. Just wanted to say thanks to the OP and others who helped make this mod easy.

 

How long does this job usually take? Thinking about doing it next weekend.

 

The answer to that important question most certainly depends on one's ability to comprehend the previous 613 posts intended to explain, clarify, and instruct in all the ramifications of the project.

 

Greetings, just completed this mod and can confirm the instructions for the m/t wiring is correct. Thanks for the info

 

I read threw a lot of the posts and I have not seen anything on it but is there a reason that Toyota allows only 100w while moving. Would it put to much stress on the alt running 400w while driving and cause some damage? Anyone that has had this done for a while have any issues with their alternator?

 

That would be my guess. Too much draw on the battery and not enough alternator to recharge it when it is also trying to run so many other things like TSS (if equipped), outlets, climate controls, engine monitoring systems, etc on top of then trying to run electricity through a power inverter.

 

Is there also a risk of blowing out whatever you're trying to charge or power up?

 

I would think you'd likely blow a fuse or something before that happens, but maybe not.