Mid Travel BS 2.0

Question for y’all. I installed my lowers literally the weekend before my trip to Colorado. I noticed it was bouncy up front braking and going over bumpers. So I adjusted the firmness to make it a little better. When I got home I cranked the coilovers down some too. It’s helped some but what else can I do? I’ve been messing with the resi’s too? Before lowers the front road smoother than now. I know the lowers change the ride because of bushings but just wanted to see what y’all have done.

 

Hard to say on bouncy, people’s opinion on bouncy can vary. But my guess its two things either the shock needs revalving. It can be adjusted internally and slow the rebound so it wont be bouncy. Or looks like your spring rate is not happy. Looks like you got a 600ish spring rate with 4wd and lots of weight. Can help with more spring rate.

 

Thanks for the help I have a 700lb spring. I might be looking at a revalve soon then.

 

I Need some help.

Installing a midtravel kit with fox secondary bypass up front, And 12” triple bypass in the rear.

I have to run 1.5” to 2” spacer for clearance. Clear the bypass tubes at compression and full steering lock. I am also going up to 315 tires, and doing the fender trimming.

I don’t really like a huge bro lift bulge.. so thinking about going to a +2 or +4 fender/Bedside.. what do y’all think about using these with out a LT kit? and which would be the best size and brand?

 

Totally acceptable in this situation to run fiberglass without LT. That said trailer products is going to have the smallest bulge front fenders but their fitment isn’t known to be the best. You’ll get better fitment from ADV or fiberwerx

 

I have some 2 inch spacers sitting on the bench that I am not going to use. They are for sale. I am now running 3.5bs -38 scs Br6 wheels with 1.25 spacers to clear the dual bypass. Also had to revisit my cab mount chop. Every thing clears now

 

@snowsk8air2 @whatstcp @Micatom33

thanks for the input

With the offset and and spacer that like ~2.75” of poke. I’m gonna have to do a lil more chopping on the cam mount too..

sending you a PM regarding spacers..

 

Yea more cab mount chopping is giving me time to practice my welding. Nothing that a grinder can't clean up.

 

I was also thinking to much poke could happen but now I see the end result and like it.

 

Not bad at all, those Bushwacker flares would Work. dunno if they actually help other than looks.

 

since nobody answered i went with 11" travel with 170 valving and it was definitely the right choice. rides good.

 

Does any one know if will work instead of having to relocate on a first gen?

 

they are direct replacements so yes. but because of that they are only an 8" travel shock so dont expect too much out of them

 

Thanks, looks like I will be relocating in that case.

 

You can also adjust the gas pressure in the resi. This effectively increases or decreases spring rate in small steps.

What valving do those shocks have in them?

 

Honestly I don’t know. I got them from @Downsouth Motorsports whatever they send them out with.

 

The bushings in the new lowers drastically reduce the friction allowing the system to move more freely. There should have been a tag on the shocks which stated the valving when you got the shocks. If you don’t have it then maybe you can call and have them look up your order to get specs. But with these new lowers you’ll probably want to increase damping on at least compression and possibly rebound.

 

They will know, and I believe will re-valve for you once.

This, or get the tools and learn to do it yourself.

 

You're probably thinking of accutune. They work with you before buying to get a good custom tune, and will redo it once for free later on. DSM may do that same, just never seen it mentioned before.

 

I forget if it's DSM or SDHQ that has a "one free revalve" policy.

But it doesn't help most of us much, since you have to have your shocks off the truck for 3 or 4 weeks to get it done.