2020 Red OR Build Plan - Help Spec it Out!

Greetings, TW!

So... I’m just coming off two consecutive JL Wranglers. Both were highly problematic in terms of QC. The first was a 2-door Rubi which FCA bought back from me under the NC Lemon Law after spending literally months in the shop with electrical issues, and the second was a 4-door Sahara which had the engine, clutch, flywheel, shifter, main battery and aux battery all swapped out under warranty in the first 15k miles.

When I started looking for another Taco recently (had a beloved ‘13 OR until an accident) I found the current lack of stock a challenge (obviously) but eventually found a ‘20 Pro in AG. Between the dealer wanting a $5k market adjustment for it and my wife not digging the scoop, I let it pass through my hands. With the options and the adjustment it would have cost $55k OTD.

I’m now a 10-day backhaul wait away from a ‘20 OR (Barcelona Red 6MT, Premium/Tech/LED packages for $42,127 MSRP reduced to $41k/$42.5k OTD) and am planning the build with the difference in price to use as budget (@$12.5k).

Okay... with that said, how would you prioritize and select upgrades? Here is my current list:

Magnuson Supercharger
TBD Suspension
TBD Intake & Exhaust
Nitro 4.88 Regear (REM and/or Cryo)
TBD 33" Tires
TBD Rear Disc Brakes
Tom Woods 1-Piece Drive Shaft


mos

 

TW people! Really? No thoughts on prioritizing the mods here? I should mention that this will be a combo DD (country roads, some highway), utility truck around the property (steep logging roads), hunting truck (more logging roads) and limited other OR use.

For DD joy, the supercharger and intake/exhaust comes first.

For practical usage, the suspension, tires, sliders, etc.

Help me!


mos

 

Do tires and let people work the FI to get it dialed in.

My neighbor just dropped a stupid amount of money to have his jeep built and it will definitely be a monster offroad

 

TheTW drive shaft will only be needed if you wind up with vibration after lifting . Only go 2.5” you should be good . Maybe regear depending on tire size.
Suspension 1
Tires 2
Regear 3

Leave the drums in the rear

 

Welcome back

 

Yeah. You’re right about the SC unit and letting it get squared away. I’m just really stoked that the offering is there. I like HP to the wheels as much as the next guy and know I’ll eventually more juice than the rig offers stock. Tires are for sure an early play, probably along with suspension and intake/exhaust.
Thanks, @Dirk Diggler. Appreciate the response.


mos

 

So, @lynyrd3... youre probably right that a Regear takes precedence over intake/exhaust, just for the torque and driving experience, but why leave the rear drums? Also, my last taco had the vibes (lover her anyhow) and I’m expecting them again.

I mean, if I luck out and she’s steady then sure... maybe leave the stock unit alone, but that’s chancy and I’d almost rather just bite the bullet and get the whole rig running well with an upgrade, especially with a little lift like the suspension is gonna give me. No?

Thanks for the input!


mos

 

Thanks, man! I’m happy to be here!

mos

 

Why are you doing all this when you don't even own the truck yet? Not driven it yourself to evaluate what you need?
Sounds like you need a Tundra or a Raptor or something entirely different than a Tacoma.

 

55k for a taco.

 

Might not need to regear if going fi.

 

The Manuals have 4.33 gears stock.

as far as packages go , you have a rear locker so that’s about all you needed to look for.

Get :

sliders, bumpers, skids.

Then do an extended travel 2.5” coil over upfront with a corresponding new upper A-arm which allows for a bit more travel.

In the rear, 2.5” shocks in the stock location with a decent leaf pack or an add a leaf.

I don’t know about the rest of all that BS, but with all the crap I have listed your truck is done and ready to smash.

U r welcome.

 

A newly designed $6500 supercharger unproven may eat your drivetrain up as you mentioned the driveshaft, but the clutch/transmission, transfer case, and rear diff (front crush sleeve may be destroyed) with the HP. I would also worry about the engines internals especially bottom end longevity adding 32% more HP. I would wait and see a year or 2 the problems that occur with adding one before I would do it unless you have lots of extra cash around, unless the Toyota dealer installs and warranty covers it. Just thinking ahead on costs. See Magnuson gives a 3/36 warranty but would want to read the full text and what really is covered. Automatics handle increased HP drivetrain shock better than a manual when dumping the clutch off the line.

Order to do: suspension (costly to do full job right), tires (body trimming remember on larger) with speedo recal, real full steel skids under the whole thing (gas tank too you have budbuilt near you) for uses you mentioned, sliders if heavy rock/tree area use, TW driveshaft after lift if required, then drive it and see if you really need gears and care about the supercharger. Once you start altering Toyota loves to blame them on any issues that arise so be forewarned!!

Did you have a manual before and can you and your wife drive one - had to ask as many never learned - sorry just a last thought and no offense.

 

Rear drums on our trucks are fine . My 2008 still has 35% left on original rears . 127000 miles

 

Hi @hiPSI. Three answers.

1) Regarding the suspension and related off road capability upgrades, I know I’ll need them because I already owned a TRD OR and drive it on similar terrain for a while. Used the last one as a DD and utility truck and drove in on my old hunting lease in VA with rough logging roads, washouts, etc. I’ll be using this one on similar trails but with steeper ridges and more wet areas. I know I will need these upgrades from experience.

2) The 1-piece driveshaft is definitely speculation as I mentioned above, but here too I already had a vibey taco and would’ve done this upgrade if I hadn’t crashed it (then moved on to jeeps). It should wait until I see how the new one rides, but TBH I’ll probably do it eventually just to have the stronger component built in for the long haul (plan on driving this one till it well & truly dies a natural death).

3) Where I think you’re closest to correct is with the power related upgrades (intake/exhaust, SC). If it weren’t for the fact that you can’t buy a new truck with a manual trans except the taco, other than the really big ones which are too big for my needs, I’d probably go with something more powerful. Would I buy a manual F-150 over a taco? Yes, I would. But... manual is non-negotiable for me and I really do love the taco... size, configuration, even the ergonomics. So... yeah, I’m already planning to oomph it up a bit to make it into what I want... which definitely includes more skinny-pedal responsiveness for highway driving (and mostly just cuz I like driving a fast stick!).


mos

 

I would say tires and suspension first

 

This sounds like the right priority and sequence to me, @muddog321, and your comment about the SC and longer term reliability are spot on. It could be that the regearing gives me enough that I don’t need the SC. My Rubicon was pretty sprightly, though it weighed less than an OR.

Yes, I drive manuals by preference... won’t drive an auto. The wife can (but won’t) drive a manual... makes me crazy.


mos

 

Let the wife make most of the important decisions in the future

 

It is very difficult to help outfit your Taco if we don't know how you plan to use the truck...

 

Mmmm... sure... I could do that... but then things would be so boring! Been married for 28 years and counting, so I think our system works okay! LOL