Ontario BS Thread

@3JOH22A @Shveet

The Bison off road kit we are ordering has 6 adjustable spots from the images.

http://www.bisonoffroad.com/toyota-tacoma-16-20-cam-kit/

Is this what you guys are talking about or am I crossing shit up?

 

I wouldn’t suggest getting an adjustable uCA either. The spc is nice but you can loose your alignment (like I did the last ardbeg weekend). Most aftermarket UCA’s have some caster built in to help with alignment (JBA has like 3-4 degrees and dirt king has 2 degrees). Be mindful of sealed ball joint versus uniball. Then a generic ball joint readily available versus custom ball joints only available through single source

 

Correction, those got plenty adjustment positions to satisfy needs of one. Most of us here push caster to maximum, which those do as well.

All they do is lock your cams from moving when you do stupid things.

 

You also need to beef up the cam tabs (either TC or better yet Marlin Crawler's kit). That's the next thing to go once you stop the cam bolts from shifting - the stock tabs can flatten (fold over).

Still effectively 3 positions (inboard, middle, outboard). Leaving the bolt on the high or low side of the hexigon has little effect on camber or caster.

 

If you push your caster to maximum (front cam all the way in, rear cam all the way out), how to you do camber adjustment?

 

I just welded a double pass bead on both sides of the tabs

 

Pretty much all the poly kit does, neutral, far left or far right. Really on our trucks we just want to max out caster to get the tires off the cab mount. Then just adjust toe and good to go.

edit: for camber we are usually set to 0 assuming nothing is bent. If you are using the top or very bottom holes on the bison kit you may get more/less camber.

 

It’s neutral on those kits, we aren’t ricy enough to care about that

 

Max caster is how I set up my cam bolts, but then I zero my camber at the upper ball joint. How do you do that without SPC UCAs? Just live with whatever camber angle you end up with?

 

Stronger than stock , but not the same level of reinforcement as Marlin's gusset kit (which @Norilsk runs): https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103786

 

I still bent it... so not really strong...

 

Same way they do it with stock. All done at the lower cams. Because most aftermarket control arms have built on caster it helps with the alignment so you don’t have as much issues with camber.

I know @Manfred has pics of his alignment (jba uppers and polys lower cams-rear maxed out and front neutral). He got some good numbers camber and toe at zerp

 

Gotcha! So @Manfred isn't at maxed out caster with the front cams.

 

I set them to neutral and he was able to get 2 (and some change) of caster 0 camber and toe.

 

here...

 

welcome to the club!

 

I had to pull the front seat out pull the carpet out and the insulation pull the door panels and it still smells kinda funky...but it was worth it..

 

There's a product that I ordered on Amazon that gets rid of any and all smells... It's called Knoc out or noc out. I used it after I pulled my carpet and was able to get all the smell out
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002TAXVM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fzotFbZ0JPEAY

 

so my parking brake light won't go out... That's fun
thinking it might be that's the driver side speed sensor is damaged

 

Also picked up a permanent passenger