Bleeding brakes after extended brake line install, 3rd Gen Pro

I'm getting ready to install the Wheeler's Offroad extended brake lines front and rear and have some questions regarding the bleed process.

I've read probably every post regarding the bleed process and it seems like there are mixed feelings about how easy it is, to people having to tow their trucks to the dealer because they couldn't bleed the brakes.

I have a 19' Pro. From what I've seen, the Pro and OR models have he same brake system. So has anyone with a 3rd gen Pro or OR attempted and succesfully managed to bleed all four sides after brake line install?

If so, can you prvide details on the steps to follow? Which side to start on? Car on, off, Acc, etc.? Depressig pedal or not? If so, how many times?

Asking all these questions becasue based on all the posts I've read about this, it seems like the order of the steps made a difference to whether people were successful at bleeding the brakes or not.

Any input is very much appreciated.

 

Your truck will be crazy easy. Open bleeder, push pedal and fluid will flow. I believe truck needs to be on so the powered booster can work. Start farthest from master cylinder.

 

@EatSleepTacos

 

He ain't know!

 

@Greg.Brakes.Tacos

 

He definitely ain't know!

 

@FadedComa maybe?

hang on let me just tag all the VA folks

 

What we talking bout??

 

Good plan.

 

@crashdb

 

@SearArtist

 

It’s super easy. Replace the lines. Turn the ign on, press the brake pedal. Keep an eye on fluid in the master. Top off as needed. Bam.

 

Not that mofo!

 

I just put new Akebono ceramic pads on the front myself, but got lazy on the bleed, and didn't have a qualified helper to work the pedal. Since it's never been done, I took it to a shop for a pressure bleed. It got everything out and was replaced with spanky clean fluid. Truck stops great.

 

Don't have OR so can't confirm this, but I've heard you can wedge a board (or anything) between the seat and the brake pedal to hold it in. That will let you do a one-man bleed at the caliper or wheel cylinder as long as the ignition is on...

 

Booster:

(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the pump motor has stopped (step A).
(b) Turn the ignition switch to OFF, and depress the brake pedal more than 20 times (step B).
(c) Repeat step A and B 5 times (step C).
(d) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and check that the pump stops after approximately 8 to 14 seconds.​

Line Bleed:

(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
(b) Front brake line.

(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat step D and E until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.​

(c) Rear brake line.

(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the wheel cylinder.
(2) Depress the brake pedal, hold it, and then loosen the bleeder plug.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.​

Master Solenoid:

(a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to ON.
(c) Select "Active Test" mode on the Techstream.
(d) Connect the vinyl tube to the rear wheel cylinder.
(e) Loosen the bleeder plug.
(f) Select "TRAC Solenoid (SRMF & SRMR)" to drive the solenoids and bleed air from the rear wheel cylinder (step F).
(g) Repeat step F until all the air in the brake fluid is bled out.
(h) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
(i) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
(j) Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
(k) Turn the ignition switch to ON.
(l) Clear DTC​

 

Thanks for all who responded. It seems like I should be able to get a crack at it no problem. Just need a qualified helper to work the pedal.

 

Making a loop in your vinyl bleeder tubing keeps fluid in the loop while not letting air back into the brake lines, allowing you to take your foot off of the brake pedal. You can then close the bleeder plug. No assistant needed.
Old plastic measuring cup stays in the garage.
Wife’s awd Nissan pictured:

 

In my best "Arby's" voice........."Somebody's in Trouble".....using mom's measuring cup...lol.

There are two commands from the bleeder, to the pedal operator;
1. Press it
2. Release it.

Don't use the following language;
1. Pump it up and just a keep pumpin till I'll tell ya ta stop.
2. Did you see dat ass?
3. Pump it up and hold it to the floor, then let it go and wait till I tell ya to pump it again cause I need a different wrench.

If the guy behind the wheel has a cell phone, take it from him
If the guy behind the wheel has food, take it from him
If the guy behind the wheel has the pedal to the floor and holding it, don't go take a piss, or talk to the girlfriend for 20 minutes.

You think I'm kidding? I've watched, been part of, assisted in hundreds of good, and failed bleeds. Do it right and you'll be good.
Zim

 

I feel taking the cell phone away is like taking the bone frrom the dog. Thanks for the suggestions.

Press the pedal 1/2 - 3/4 way or all the way to the floor?