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3.4L supercharger

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CHMM, Sep 14, 2019.

  1. Aug 28, 2020 at 11:01 PM
    #2361
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    I'm running an AEM fic6 and methanol. I'm not pulling any timing with stock pullet at 6psi. I could get buy without methanol but it's so damn hot in Phoenix.
     
  2. Aug 28, 2020 at 11:04 PM
    #2362
    jruiz555

    jruiz555 Well-Known Member

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    ahh, no idea. your most likely going to make one, or buy one....
     
  3. Aug 28, 2020 at 11:05 PM
    #2363
    jruiz555

    jruiz555 Well-Known Member

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    in other news... my dog is activity hunting the rat... looks like she isolated the rat towards the rear of the 4runner, near the gas tank.. i think tonights the night she gets it. husky's r cray cray!
     
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  4. Aug 29, 2020 at 6:34 AM
    #2364
    MatthewMay1

    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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    I never knew a husky to be a rat dog
     
  5. Aug 31, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #2365
    BubbaSkyjacker

    BubbaSkyjacker Member

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    place some dog food on a sticky trap on the SC
     
  6. Aug 31, 2020 at 6:43 PM
    #2366
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    ARP head studs Supercharger FIC6 AFR gauge painted fenders audio install
    Anyone have their old static tensioner pulley (just the pulley, I've already got the original bracket and my original pulley) lying around? I'm hoping to add it into the supercharger belt system to lessen belt slippage. Or one from cutting off the side that supports?

    @1997tacomav6 @BartMaster1234
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2020
  7. Aug 31, 2020 at 9:49 PM
    #2367
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Belt slippage? Do you have the newer spring loaded type tensioner. Steel or aluminum pulley on supercharger?
     
  8. Aug 31, 2020 at 10:36 PM
    #2368
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    Static tensioner, trying to fix the problem oem steel pulley, would rather spend less money because of my budget. People still have problems with slippage on the dynamic so I'm trying to add in the pulley between the SC and the fan pulley to increase the arc length that the belt touches for friction. I'd rather spend the money (dynamic tensioner cost) on the tool to set the belt tension correctly because you need it for the dynamic tensioner as well.

    If none of that works, I may try to convert to a 6 rib pulley at some point.
     
  9. Aug 31, 2020 at 11:06 PM
    #2369
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    What makes you think it's slipping. Not doubting you. Just curious what symptoms your having. People are running +10lbs with no slipping issues. How's the grooves on the pulley look? You can get by without the belt tension gauge with the dynamic tensioner.
     
  10. Aug 31, 2020 at 11:09 PM
    #2370
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    I'm hitting 6-7lbs of boost and running a 130 amp GM alternator off the 4 rib belt.
     
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  11. Aug 31, 2020 at 11:55 PM
    #2371
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    I'm getting belt dust and its slightly glazed, also was getting boost drop but tightened it and it went away but would rather not tighten it any more for fear of wearing the bearings faster, therefore if I can increase the contact patch of the belt, it does not have to be so tight and I can be 100% sure it is not slipping. Pulley is possibly worn? not sure, it is the original steel one so 200k miles on the pulley.

    To get the correct tension from the start, you still need the gauge to set the dynamic tensioner, then its good for the lifetime of that spring in the tensioner. But most can get by without the initial measuring.
     
  12. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:32 AM
    #2372
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Tension on a new belt is 120lbs and 90lbs on a used belt. So it's tight!
     
  13. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:53 AM
    #2373
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    But our superchargers have only 4 ribs, have a very small radius pulley, and only have ~180 degrees of belt contact make it prone to slippage if not perfect or if you are going for high boost.
     
  14. Sep 1, 2020 at 4:31 AM
    #2374
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    hold up. There’s a belt tension spec for the dynamic tensioner? The instructions clearly say to set the alternator on the center and that’s it. How could you have both?
     
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  15. Sep 1, 2020 at 6:09 AM
    #2375
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Like this?

    2ED14812-B90D-47CB-AA5B-F9AEAE1A1ABF.jpg
     
    TacoBike[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Sep 1, 2020 at 8:07 AM
    #2376
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    That's what listed for the static tensioner. I don't know if the dynamic tensioner has a tension listed.
     
  17. Sep 1, 2020 at 8:38 AM
    #2377
    Shape-Shifter

    Shape-Shifter Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that is the same alternator position for the dynamic tensioner also.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2020 at 9:27 AM
    #2378
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    yes, technically there is. Gadget at t4r had to tension it anyway. to quote: "In theory the new tensioner handles this problem for you. However, the installation guide still says that a belt tension gauge should be used to set the initial tension of the belt. The alternator can be moved in and out to adjust the belt tension on a stock engine and if it is to far in or out it will prevent the new tensioner from holding the proper tension so it must still be initially set using the gauge and from then on it should be fine. I found that with both of retrofit dynamic tensioners that I installed on my 4Runners I did have to use the belt tension gauge to properly set the tension to 80 Lbs-Ft of tension. This was even with the tension properly set with the pulley plate." Gadget owns URD btw (I believe) http://www.gadgetonline.com/Tensioner.htm

    yes, exactly like that. and if I can get a tall eared pulley it should stay on the sc well. There should be no problem with just having another idler pulley in the system. (I may have to buy a size longer gates belt but it would be worth it.)
     
  19. Sep 1, 2020 at 11:34 AM
    #2379
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    MAN this is getting complicated,

    There should be NO belt slipping at all with the stock pulley, Gates belt and the updated tensioner.

    I’m running a 1.9 pulley, updated tensioner and hit 12 pounds of boost and have zero slipping of the belt! You adjust the belt by moving the alternator if needed, tensioner does the rest.
    I’ve NEVER had a belt jump a pulley before
     
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  20. Sep 1, 2020 at 1:46 PM
    #2380
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    ARP head studs Supercharger FIC6 AFR gauge painted fenders audio install
    Without the belt tension gauge, I'd rather get belt slip than have to send in my snout sooner than needed. Dynamic tensioner uses a spring so; as the tensioner is moved the force pushing back by the spring changes and so you should use the gauge to initially set the tension. Its like the other belts, by the books you need to but in real life you don't really need it.

    belt jumping the pulley was only with the two idlers when they originally did the sc. I believe that it can be run with the two, (for more contact) especially with the tall eared pulley. It takes a lot of hp to spin the supercharger and an extra idler is the correct way to stop belt slip if not increasing tension for me.
     

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