2020 TRD PRO CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR

I know this topic has been beat to death. But I just want to tell my story about removing this acc
from my truck. Very easy and fast. 40 minutes.. I removed the lines from the acc, adjusted & straightened the line from the slave cylinder to make it longer, bought a $1.29 double flare [inverted] union to attach the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder and bleed the system. Cake job. What I don't understand is what was this kit that everyone was buying into for $80.00 that somebody was selling on this forum for ? Again this was on my 2020.. Maybe the older ones are different ? Everyone that said it makes a big difference is correct for sure. I also have to believe the acc will wear the clutch prematurely for sure.. If you have a manual REMOVE IT...

 

What is Acc & why is it going to ruin the clutch I don’t notice any issue with my MT Clutch drives fine & I only drive MT my whole life

 

Nice work!

There is only one factory arrangement that we know of. Shown in Post 20. Was yours different?

Please snap some pics because I do not believe that I could have made a straight union to work. I needed every millimeter and the 90deg turn in the brake union that I used.

I would be happy to add any details to the ADM 1st Post.

All the info is in the 1st Post:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

 

I will try to explain. The accumulator softens the clutch pedal release points. So SLIPPING If you will. This is for people that don't know how to drive a manual sort of speak. So lets say you release the clutch to soon with not enough rpm, NORMALLY this will cause a stall condition,with no accumulator. WITH a acc no stall.. You will find a different feel in the clutch when you remove it.. DO IT..

 

Its the clutch fluid accumulator, it slows down the fluid. Helps new MT drivers, but definitely annoying for some experienced drivers.

Its impossible to rev match quickly and smoothly with the accumulator, also my clutch shuddered when starting uphills with that POS. It was bouncing off the flywheel a few times, because the pressure was being restricted. That cant be good for the clutch at all.

I did notice my clutch was very spongy when i drove my truck for the first time, but this is my first new vehicle and i thought it will get worn in. I always had trouble rev matching and i had that stupid clunk especially when shifting from 4-5-6, or 4-6. I thought it was me, but no. I read the ADM thread and it all made sense.

I mean, most of the time with normal driving, i guess the accumulator is ok. But when you gotta rev match, forget about it. I drive this highway with lots of hills and turns quite often, so rev matching is a must to keep the momentum. I could never get it right before, even my dad noticed, now with that thing removed, its amazing. Quick smooth downshifts, and no stupid clunk.

I would highly recommend removing that POS, as it is not needed at all. It does wear out the clutch quicker if you think about it. None of my previous cars and trucks had that thing and they all drove just fine. For the longest time i thought there must be a reason for that thing to be there. Yota engineers are not dumb right, why would they spend money designing and making this part. But i realized its just there so people who are not experienced will not shock the drivetrain and complain to toyota that something is broken.

Just my .04c (Can)

 

Mine was just like yours showed.. The bend in the line going to the slave cylinder had 2 good size bends. I just straightened the bends [not all the way but enough to reach, I used a 1.5 inch long union. Fit was PERFECT !!! Looks factory.
One thing i did not add, Did you remove the acc from the bell housing? If not maybe that is why you could not get the lines to reach ???

 

I was on the fence for a while there, but im so glad i did it, thanks to TW. Im one of those that bought the kit from a member on here, much easier for me. I dont have a garage so it makes things a bit more difficult.

 

I had to straighten the bends a bit to get the brake line elbow to mate up. I guess there was more room to go. Hahaha!

If you ever get some pics, lemme know. That union is commonly available at auto parts stores when I looked.

 

Since this was my first auto mechanic attempt and my first clutch bleed, the kit was essential to the job for me. Without it I would have had significantly less hope of aborting and bolting everything back together like it was. Not that anyone would ever want to do that but I didn’t really know/understand up front. It was as much for insurance and directions and support as far as tools and bleed as it was the parts themselves. I didn’t even know what a flare wrench was.

Knowing what I know now, I’d probably dremel the accumulator for a completely stealth solution. But I’d still be a little worried about any metal entering the brake line so I’d ask for advice on cleaning.

 

I too picked up the custom hydraulic line/fittings assembly when it became available from a member while I was waiting for my truck to be delivered. I've yet to make a plan on when to install it.
Do most people remove the accumulator after installing the bypass or just leave it on the truck?

 

@Kruuuzn the accumulator has to be removed to allow room for the line. However, you could probably bend the line around the accumulator if you desired to but it might interfere with the heat shield/cover.

 

Thanks. That makes sense to me.
I would think it would also be cleaner to just remove it.

 

Another reason to remove is so you can dremel it if you have any problems at all with the line in the future. Then a quick swap back to stealth mode and you are up and running. I have mine in a “to do” baggie right now.

 

I agree with this dude

 

I would also like to see some pics of the union you used @TACOTRDPRO1

 

I believe it is the one shown at the top of the 1st Post in the ADM thread and the one that comes in @Trident904 's old kits. My big question is how!



Here's a vid from a 2nd Gen. It is what kicked this all off for me. The 2nd Gens had a few different accumulator arrangements, some with a lot of line slack.

 

That will require me to lift the truck again and remove the shield to take a picture. Trust me, just lengthen the line going to the slave cylinder and get a 10.mm double flare union [1.2 "long standard size] and you got it. cake !!!
That line will reach perfect, just remove [some] not all of the 2 bends in that line.. Next time I have it on my lift I will glady take a pic for you... HERE IS THE PART #
AGS LINE FITTING 3 BLU-9C. another member on the above post has the same union I used. Ck it out, hope this helps you..

 

I've had the kit sitting in my garage for a year. This thread makes me want to finally take care of it. I've never liked the clutch feel on my current truck or my second gen. I just hate bleeding brakes / clutches.