2020 TRD PRO CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR

You can always take it to a local shop you trust, they will do it for no more than 100$. About an hour job.

You will love the new feel.

 

I did that and was quoted a minimum of $125 and possibly more if I'm remembering correctly. I also got the vibe that they really didn't want to do it at all. And it feels like a rite of passage, you'll enjoy the drive more by having put in the effort.

Pretty sure I could have have trimmed off some of the time I took if I had access to a lift instead of slithering around on my concrete driveway and effectively doing burpees with each clutch bleed cycle

 

Only problem is I'm crazy ocd and hate anyone touching my cars. Just need to stop being a wimp and do it. Replacing shocks was easy, hated the part about getting an alignment.

 

What kinda beer ya like???

 

I bought the parts (12” line and union$ from Advanced for something like $10 and like others said, 40 minutes later done. The bracket on the cat was biggest pain for me.

It does make shifting much more pleasant and less notchy feel going to 2nd and 3rd gears.

I’m keeping the accumulator and the line to slave cylinder just in case I have to take it in for tranny warranty. Other than that, with the shield back on you can’t tell.

FYI- I have a 2020 TRD Sport

 

I can’t get the clutch lines off, they are rusted on there and I am concerned I’m going to snap the upper one off and then I’m going to be in trouble.
I snapped the bottom bolt holding the accumulator onto the transmission housing without much effort I might add.

I had a thought that maybe I can run a new line all the way from the reservoir down to the slave cylinder should I damage the upper line.

 

BEFORE you break the line try some heat on the [fitting to line] not fitting to the acc. dont over heat it or you will burn through the line

 

I was able to deal with then lines.
This is on a TRD sport and it was a bit of a nightmare because of all the corrosion on the fittings. The lines had to be cut to get the accumulator out. The line from the reservoir to the accumulator should be fine, for some reason the corrosion doesn’t get up there.

I used the premade PAJ–312 brake line.
One thing I noticed is it’s mostly Americans doing this mod and the fitting used when installed into the slave cylinder needs to have an 8.4 mm diameter by 3mm long non threaded section at the end of it.
Those threading the fittings without modification must be really cranking on those things to get them to seat into the slave cylinder and that’s a risk of stripping the slave cylinder threads.
I used a grinder to remove the threads and bring the section down to 8.4 mm diameter.

I let it spin on the line using my finger to reduce the speed of it and using the grinding wheel to mill it down to the size I needed. I didn’t want to snip the line and have to re-flare it which is why I left the fitting on the line.

If somebody has a lathe it would be easy to modify it when making your own line and buying the fitting separately. You could put it in a drill and use a file or grinder to mill down the end of the fitting to where it should be.

Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of it before installing it but I do know that Toyotas fittings don’t have threads all the way to the end, they stop 3mm before the end of the fitting.

What a difference this mod made.

It cost me more than it should’ve, it would’ve been only about $12 Canadian but I had to buy a bender for $20 and I bought a flaring tool for $30 that I opened up and ended up not using so I can’t take it back.
The upside is now I have tools to lend friends when they need them