Torque converter

Had it done at a transmission shop. ~$130ish.

I did ask how much a rebuild of Transmission would cost and he said he did one recently that was similar issues to mine for about $3200. Hoping i won't have to do that but feel it's inevitable.

 

I had my transmission serviced and this problem started shortly after. In response I have had
1. propeller shaft removed and all U-joints replaced, new carrier bearing and shaft balanced
2. Carrier bearing drop kit and leaf wedges (to compensate for 1.5 inch lift)
3. ECGS bushing in driver side transfer case
4. New engine mounts
5. New harmonic balancer (all idler bearings, tensioner, and belt were done before too)

I'm at/near my wits end. I just took the truck to a transmission shop to install the harmonic balancer and they said there is a Service Bulletin on the issue. I looked it up it's T-SB-0096-09. The Introduction describes the issue perfectly: shudder or vibration for ~1 second when lightly accelerating after upshift into 3rd or (I am feeling it in both; so AND) 4th gear. Says the issue is the Torque Converter. States the ECM logic has been revised to prevent the learning of an incorrect value during certain driving conditions...
find it here: https://www.scribd.com/doc/13654473/T-SB-0096-09

I called the dealer and they are oblivious of the issue even when I told them the SB number. Going to try another dealer. Worse case, I might need a new (upgraded) Torque Converter installed.

 

I still have this exact issue. Let me know how you make out. Still driving me crazy. I adjust how I accelerate or ride along in 4th.

 

OK, here's the update! I went to a dealer last Saturday to see if they have a software update. Nope. They agreed the Torque Converter needed to be replaced. I asked ifthat meant the trans also needed to be replaced and in they said, "No, we replace Torque Converters all the time and not the transmission and it's fine"... so, I'm not sure the transmission shop just was trying to sell me a transmission. But the dealer quote for a Torque Converter was $3250. The transmission shop wanted $3900 for the entire trans with new torque converter. So, I was resigned to the large bill and read more forums. One of them said they put a bottle of

$15 Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.

Lubegard 63010 Platinum Universal ATF Protectant, 10 oz. so I found it on Amazon. I also ordered a tube of

$8 Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix

Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fixx, 2 oz. and a

$12 Slippery Pete 5cc Hand Pump Transfers Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluids From Quart Bottles (Not for Red Line Quarts) (1)

Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Quart Bottles - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid with This 5cc Hand Pump (1) so I could put it all in. I went to put it in Monday, but my socket set ends at 7/8" and I needed a 15/16 (or 24mm) to take the fill plug out. Yesterday, I got the socket and pumped in the lubegard and shudder fix. I just got home so the trans was hot already. I put the fill plug back in and ran the engine cycling through P R N and D (about six seconds each) for five minutes or so. Then in P left it idling and put my drain bucket under the overfill plug. I released the overfill plug and the excess fluid dumped out. When the stream was just a trickle, I put. the overfill plug back in. Went for a drive and when the shudder happened it was significantly subdued. The lubegard says it might take a 20 mile or so drive to take full effect. My drive to work today was shudder free... So, if this is still a problem for you, I would say adding these worked for me.

 

When you bring your truck to the dealer to have the shudder fixed , they always say change the converter .

If you catch the shuddering early enough , a fresh fluid change plus lubeguard will usually fix you up . The surface the lock up clutch mates with is all glazed up from your old fluid being depleted and it takes a while for the new fluid to remove the glazing .
Its like a clutch in a manual transmission . When you replace the clutch , you must re-surface the flywheel .
In the A750E series transmission , the friction modifiers in your new fluid plus the Super friction modifiers in the Lubeguard can remove the glazing off the lock up clutch surface .
This is providing you actually have a converter shudder . Converter shudders can be misdiagnosed incredibly easy as there are at minumum at least 12 different vibrations in the Tacoma and everyone thinks its a converter shudder . Process of elimination and proper diagnosis is the key .

In the attempt to save you guys some hard earned cash , I have a little write up to help you figure out your shudders and vibrations at the link below .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-diagnostics-for-all-tacomas-write-up.520607/

 

Hey man I have a 2020 tacoma...i jave notoced in drive at light throttle between 40-60mph I get what feels like a chugging or unless I press the pedal more.i also sometimes get a repetitive drone from tranny or exhaust at light theottle between those speeds but if i drove in s4 it doesnt happen.what really worries me is : when I brake I get a shudder or pulsation .been there since day one of owning the truck.i took it back got the leaf spring tsb and new drums at 6000 miles(thats when I bought it) it helped but is still there..its wierd because if I only apply the brakes under 20mph then its ssmooth but if I am going 40 and start braking then I get the shudder all the way until im stopped.sometimes if I let it slow down by itself and dont touch the brakes then I swear I feel something rough like thats what im actually feeling when I apply the brakes.if I brake really hard then its usually smoother no matter how fast I'm going.i dunno if its a torque converter issue,a driveshaft/ujoint issue or if they only replaced the drums and not the shoes but if its doing it when I'm not even applying the brakes then it throws me pff as to what it could be .if I shift manually and shift from 2nd to first at about 20mph then its smooth and seems normal..what foes this sound like to you? We may of talked before but ive done so much research and talked to some peoppe that I dont remember everything so I do apologize if wr have already talked .ive been to 3 dealershios already and one tech said he thought it could be tranny but its nature of the beast so enjoy it ...seems lile no one wants to help..i know I reas that I van request them to hook up a computer to see what the tranny is doing while they drive but of vourse I have to pay for it and the way they act makes me feel like itd be a waste of money and theyd still say "its just how it is"even tho they find that somethibg isnt quite right
..any thoughts? Any tests I can do? Ive tried putting it in nuetral and stopping and i swear sometimes I can still feel it but when using only the ebrake to stop its usually smooth but I do admitt ive never tried it over 20mph kind of scared of locking it up whwn going too fast and regretting it .

 

I believe your truck is still on warranty .
Try a different dealership who knows how to diagnose issues as simple as this .
That would be my first step

 

Been to 3 dealerships and no help yet..one more around my area (within 2 hour drive)will be going there soon