Replacement of HVAC Blower Motor Resistor

Any chance white goes to white/black and white/black goes to white/blue. Looks like the white/blue goes over to the blower?

 

Is the resistor the OEM type with all 4 terminals in a row? If so, compare the order of the colors.

 

No its updated square type

 

Then this is the only thing I’ve got for you.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fan-speed-switch-not-working.70275/page-19#post-21671871

 

Not sure if it fits but this connector from delcity might be an upgrade, its rated at 14A. https://www.delcity.net/store/Superseal-Plug-Housing/p_912160.h_912162
If it does then in addition you could install a length of heavier guage wire on that pin to act as a heat sink

 

I had this problem on my old Ranger and just hardwired the resistor bank to the wiring harness. Never had a problem again (grainy pic I snapped from my video, lost the pics a while back). I used RC 12g silicon wiring and just drilled a few holes in the plastic mount to thread them through.

 

I ordered the resistor/connector kit from Amazon and can confirm the connector is a Metri-Pack 280 female 4-way connector. You can get these plus the pins, seals, and tpa clip for about $5 from Del City if you prefer not using butt splices on the prewired kits. You could depin the 3 that aren’t toast and just replace the one bad pin. The similar part for Chevy has a good size heat sink attached to the resistor module on one side so I’ll be doing that as well to see if that eliminates the overheating problem the module has. The connectors are rated for 30A so the problem is with the module producing the excessive heat, the connector would not otherwise fail.

 

I also think there’s a good chance that at least some of the connectors sold on Amazon are knock offs of the metri-pack connector as the one I just depinned used very thin metal to create the pins and this would drastically change the current rating of the connector since it’s the pins and not the plastic that give it the 30A rating. At this point I’ll probably order new genuine pins for it.

 

I think the issues are a combination of things. Using genuine pins is definitely a good place to start, that said I would be curious to know how good the tolerances are on the male pins on the resistor itself. If they’re undersized or inconsistent it could lead to issues (similar to what happens with the Molex connectors on the seat heater modules of the newer trucks).

If it was me, I’d be switching to the newer style without the Metripack connector. I really wish Toyota had just used a Denso HVAC system in the Tacoma instead of the Delphi stuff.

It seems most of the time Toyota uses Delphi electrical components they end up being less reliable. Which is too bad because they actually do make some decent stuff (GT-series connectors are great among others), but it just hasn’t worked out well for Toyota compared to Denso stuff.

Jeff

 

Here’s the pinout between the old and new connectors:

Pin 1 (White/Black) to Pin 4 (White/Black) - LO, to Chassis Ground
Pin 2 (White/Blue) to Pin 3 (White) - HI, to Blower Motor
Pin 3 (Blue/Black) to Pin 1 (Blue) - M2, to Control Switch
Pin 4 (Green/Yellow) to Pin 2 (Green) - M1, to Control Switch

White/Black is always ground for Toyota. Always.

The colours on the new harness correspond to the colours used on 2016-2020 trucks, and what was posted in that other thread seems to be correct.

EDIT: I see this is an older post. Hope you got it sorted.

Jeff

 

Didn’t have a 5.5mm socket so I pulled the front screw with needle nose vise grips and used that screw head to bend a strip of sheet metal into a hex and stuffed that into a 1/4” socket. Worked great mainly because I hammered the screw head into the socket to finish patterning it. #slamscribe. Fit is more snug than a 1/4” head in a 1/4” socket. Used a Milwaukee 1/4” angle driver attachment to get to the back screw.

 

Holy crap, that's some ingenuity. BTW, 5.5mm is the same as 7/32"

 

Didn’t have that either but only took 10 minutes to fab one up. Boxes of Simpson hardware screws come with 1/4” driver sockets so I had a spare to dedicate.

 

Awesome post!! Autonation quoted over $350 to replace the resistor. Got the part kit for $40 and was able to swap both the resistor and wire harness out in about an hour Thanks OP

 

Thanx for the response it was very detail

 

great response and post

 

The OP states that this is the 3rd resistor in his ‘05 Taco and his post was written in ‘08. You can see the burnt spot on the connector! What a freakin idiot! Change the gawdam connector at the same time as the resistor. This idiot probably runs his tires til 1 blows and then replaces 1 tire. He probably turns his underwear inside out to get a few more days out of them. He probably pays the minimum amount due on his credit card statement.

 

You don't turn yer undies inside out??!! WTF is wrong with you?!! Save water, save the planet!!

 

Maybe freeballin...

 

I’ve replaced everything many many times, from the harness to the blower motor, and the resistor at least 15 times over the last 5 years. This comment (quoted) was the first true fix, and the cheapest... check the pins, add dielectric grease, and you’re done... thank you!