Bandido's Bad at Taking Pictures '03 DC Build

Gotcha, just curious since both shocks on one side of the axle.

 

Saw that, pretty close to what I have right now, not nearly enough bump travel for me there with my target ride height.

I'm definitely going outside the frame.

I have lots more to say but on mobile at work...

 

Anywho, I've got some ideas, I've been thru most of the build threads and have a lot of first hand experience on buggy platforms. The suggestions and discussion are welcome however!

Those pics from @BrownMike are a great solution, it looks like at full bump his shocks are at a ~25deg angle, thats a fair bit steeper than what I have now, but probably probably quite similar to where I think I'll be with front outside rail mounts. Without experiencing how that setup feels, I'd suggest hydro bumps for best results haha.
Also, his axle side mounts are dropped pretty low, definitely two inches or so lower than my current setup, those definitely help to maintain up-travel numbers with that shock length and his under the bed upper mounts; but my truck is a not a pre-runner/desert truck and I'm not looking to drop my mounts that low & lose clearance at the axle.

At the same time, I'm not sure I'll achieve a desirable amount of flex travel with the outside the rail 11.5" shock; right now my rear shocks are pointed inboard a bit, and I get plenty of flex in the rear my springs right now will separate and arch negative at full flex, I'm planning to adjust this, but I definitively want to document this setup better than I have done so far.

Keeping a near constant motion ratio thru travel is definitely important for tuning damping; that said, and sorry if I'm preaching to the choir @Dalandser one of the techniques that allows additional damping control approaching full bump is hydraulic bumpstops! Using these, one can tune the full bump response individually; and these "red" Foxes have that capability built in!!

If you haven't seen a highlight video of these puppies, click the Link

I seriously doubt I'll achieve OE levels of active control, but I'm working on at least an electronic adjuster.

As was stated in the earlier reply, with a larger leaf pack (I have an 8 pack rn), spring under mounts, and low output TQ, theres really not much concern for axle wrap, particularly with the shocks mounted on the rear side of the axle.
On the street with my auto 1st gen; I can't detect anything. In 2L theres a little wrap...

If you have axle wrap with a leaf setup that works well for you, traction bars are the fix.

If I get a setup to control the valve as well as I expect, I'm going to be looking to re-do the front end eventually (next year) of my truck as well.

I've got a mountain of parts that I either ran for a little bit and didn't like without adjustable rear dampers; or have been slowly acquiring in anticipation of a "major" overhaul.
-12.5" travel airbags
-several different length shackles
-E65 swaybars
-550/700lb springs
-a bunch of random leafs
-some uniball cups

 

So the general consensus of shock tuning is the closer to 1:1 motion ratio, the more effective and easier to tune the shock is. However, keeping less than 20* layover is optimal, yet even factory truck shocks are layed over up to 30*, and in this case, the stock raptor has a layover angle pretty similar to what I have going on, so really they are "meant" to be at that angle

I physically could not put any larger of a shock in there and keep my up travel, the result was sacrificing about 5-6" of down travel since the truck was setup for LT/SUA. As well, being SUA, I figured I wouldnt be too bothered by putting the lower shock mounts that low because they are just as low as the leaf pack.Eventually I may make an integrated skid/mount off the leaf pack instead, but for now itll be fine.

Axle wrap hasnt been too bad with a supercharged v6/manual combo, nothing too noticeable. The shocks feel pretty good so far on the street, havent had the time to get in the dirt yet. I did reduce the shock pressure from 275 to 80ish, which allowed the truck to sit at normal ride height.

If you have any questions or measurements you need, let me know!

 

Thanks for chiming in man!

Yeah I was trying to find pics of gen2 raptors at full stuff, your setup definitely looks close to that!
I don't have or want enough spring to run much longer than a 12" shock, thats a good point about charge pressure, I need to make sure I can check/bleed pressure on these, I've only done my Icons with my own equipment.

It looks like to me I could run a modified Archive Garage kit with a mild frame notch, moving the upper point in nearly an inch. Or fab something myself to accomplish that... and that should give me enough clearance to fit these in.
Definitely weeks/months out for me I think.

 

Im assuming you are gonna be running a 1.25" spacer or larger then to fit these?

 

Yep, already running a 1.5 on a 4.2" backspace wheel.

 

IQ ~30... these are 3.0 body shocks lol.
I still think they'll fit; frame notch required.
I've got full soft and full stiff settings down electronically, but I don't know if my circuit will have constant output with the supply voltage variance from the alternator...

 

Definitely notch the heck out of the frame - just box in the whole rear section while you're at it and leave at least .5" between the shock body and the frame in all places.

 

I've already boxed the whole rear section, including the awkward bit between where LowRange's box kit ends and where the OE Box ends.
I know my build thread doesn't really have any pics of that lol

 

Synchros and stuff arrived super fast... JDM af.


Took a long lunch break WFH to install.
I'll now have about the same overdrive as the AT. I need to install soon!!

 

I've lost track haha! Are you adding another/better crawl box or is all this just to convert to MT?

 

Overdrive change, discussed a bit ago, just finally got around to completing it.
as far as gearing/crawlbox goes; My truck wants an atlas, my wallet does not lol.

 

I'd settle for the Marlin or Trail Gear or FJ case stacked with my stock...my wallet will not lol yet
At the same time, I want LT or at least mid, and like going fastish. Hard to decide between trophy truck and crawler!

 

Hey in response to my question about the pistons popping out, would it be doable to measure from the caliper surface where the pistons are (not the piston head, the machined part of the caliper) to the back side of the rotor to give me an idea if my pistons need a spacer to not pop out? The reason I'm asking is my spindles are fabbed and already were not centered on the stock rotors - they were already near the outside of the caliper.

 

I've got about 31mm to the backside of the rotor. I'm also getting pretty close to needing new pads apparently...

 

Diy roof rack installed this weekend, also wrapped the roof terribly. I'll re-do it sometime next year I guess?
Also put some sound deadener on the roof while the headliner was removed.

 

Ive been wanting to wrap my roof, pretty irritating to do?

 

With a second set of hands and doing it right... It would be ez $18 of shitty vivid wrap

 

Swapping some things this weekend.