Anything welding

Yeah I have a mig welder Lincoln 175HD . But don't have 220 in garage yet..l

 

You definitely need a decent hood. You can get a decent auto darkening hood for under $100. I think my plain miller auto darkening hood was about $100 or so.

 

I don't know what you have for a mask, but when I started I had mine turned up to the darkest it would go with the highest sensitivity and the longest delay out of fear of getting flashed. I couldn't see crap.
Now I run the lightest setting and it's much easier when you can see what's going on.

 

You need to be able to see, but not at the expense of your peppers. Should be running no less than a shade 10. I love passive with a gold lense and usually run an 11 or 13. You've got to get close to see what your doing.

 

Another day of fun.

 

Cattle pens huh? Fun shit.

 

That slag drag shit is mehhh. Depends how you weld. I push 99.9999% of my flux core welds.

 

Today's session. Time well spent.

 

Those welds look great! Pretty nice for all those odd positions you need to weld in.

 

Don't get me started on the overhead positions.
Couldn't even see/fit/lay down, etc.

 

Some good suggestions here already. First is do you need glasses, or just readers? Don't tell anyone, just go to walmart and get some $15 readers. You can change the shade in your shield, but honestly a $100 auto dark would be better and you can adjust it to suit your vision. Third is try to weld with the sun in front of you because if too much light comes in the back of your shield, your blind. Finally practice on junk metal from a scrap yard. You'll do great. You've already passed the test by asking a question on this forum. Most "men" will not admit they can't see, and the rest will tell you they can weld two beer cans together with a stick welder. My Journeyman told me to "man up and get some glasses son"....and I did.
LMAO
Zim

 

I know it's already been discussed that stick is not the way to go for your sliders, but I wanted to see if I could give you some stick advice from a fellow noob who just learned. Learn to scratch start, it helps with the rod sticking. Are you on AC or DC? Typically 6010 can only weld on DC. 6013 needs extremely clean metal to burn well. Also while 6010/6011 can burn through rust and paint, I have always felt that you at least need to clean to bare metal on your ground and at the start of the weld just to get a good arc.

Your frame is likely 1/8" or less, they are no where near as thick as you think.

From what I heard flux core also takes a bit of practice too, especially a flux core like you posted. It seems like that ones max capability is 1/8" and in reality I am not sure if it is strong enough for sliders unless it's in really capable hands.

 

I know everyone’s not on Instagram but weldtables.com is having 13 percent off with luckylaborday in all their stuff. Just ordered a 2x4 pro top with legs. The discount essentially covered shipping.

 

Shipyards have officially been the worst welding experience in my life so far. If anyone is thinking of welding in them.... run. Run far far far away

 

Go pipeline and union and get laid off for two years like Austin Ross. Good channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6D_zKGGK8s

Or go civil service, union, decent wages, slow work but 2hr sick, 2hr annual leave per pay period. Stay away from shipyard, go to intermediate maintenance facilities, submarines if possible.

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Zim

 

I’ve already worked on some bulkheads and decks that are going into submarines. I’m making $26.50/hr right now and 2hrs PTO/week.

Just this current shop I work at has terrible morals and ethics and work environment. I miss working in plants and whatnot. Wouldn’t mind trying bridges out if I could get a chance at it.

 

Thing is our eyes are all some what different

You gotta find what works for you the only time I use a #10 is for serious welding .052 wire rebuilding buckets with the voltage cranked up .

If I use a #10 running .023 hard wire( any welding on 4x4`s) I can`t see the arc it looks like a candle 50' away .

The cover plates being clean and scratch free also makes a big difference .

 

I’m going to experiment with both methods as soon as I get more scrap to practice on. I did make some metal boogers today just to see if my circuit in the garage would handle it just fine. I’m getting a 20aml breaker put in sometime soon but wanted to weld my current project up sooner rather than later and my test on the 15amp breaker was fine.
Now if if turn the power up to full it will probably trip the breaker

 

Just make sure you have the appropriate gauge wire for the 20 amp breaker. Otherwise it could catch on fire.

 

This! I use anything from shade 9 for low amp tig, to an 11 for much higher amp flux core. Although I really like nice passive lenses, the ability to quickly change/have all in one is a big selling point for auto darkening hoods. I pretty much only want glasses on when i’m welding (it makes a huge difference for me), although i’ll leave them on at the shop as safety glasses generally. being able to see well is absolutely critical.