Why buy TRD if I am going to replace the gears and suspension?

If I could save more money buying an OR, I would buy a OR instead of the SR. The OR would have to have the LED headlights, or I'd just get the SR. But today is Friday, I'm not interested in buying a truck today, when Sunday rolls around I'll probably want to buy a Ranger. I'm what you would call an undecided shopper.

 

Not even close. My best guess is the large solenoid pulling 3.5A across a 3Ω load is 37 Watts and I think you'll be lucky to get more than 30-35 lbf of linear force out of that. Solenoids get large and suck a lot of power for high forces.

Conversely, an air pressure supply of 85 psig acting over just 2 in² in an actuator assembly is 170 lbf. The forces between the two methods just aren't even in the same ballpark.

I'm boosting the current to the rear elocker a little more than stock for my anytime locker mod, but it's not even close to what an air actuator will easily do.

 

That makes sense, but my question is slightly different. If there is enough electrical power on board the truck to run an air compressor that is capable of producing 170 lbf, is there not a more “direct” way of producing the same force with a solenoid, electric motor, or other device that is simpler and cheaper than an air compressor?

 

The simple answer is no. High force solenoids are going to be heavy and large and have high power requirements that will stress the electrical system.

The previous 8" style elocker used an electric motor driving a rack gear that shifted a clutch collar via a fork. Probably much higher forces, but lots of moving parts to fail in the system with the motor, sliding/meshing gear train, position sensing tracks, etc. When it comes to electrical options it doesn't get more robust than a solenoid which will have zero moving parts. The hardware parts of the solenoid actuated locker are very unlikely to fail compared to the old style with the electric motor. I'll take the low forces and simplicity of the solenoid over the high forces of the electric motor and gear system 100% of the time.

Something like the Harrop elocker is a little different. It doesn't use the solenoid force to directly impinge on the engagement clutch but creates friction that causes plunger pins to be pushed up a ramp that then actuates the clutch into engagement. This is a method to use mechanical advantage to amplify force generated by the solenoid. The negative is the trade-off requires increased displacement and therefore has deadband in the locking mechanism during direction changes.

I'd argue the air compressor is the cheapest and simplest option for generating high actuation forces. I'd also say the compressor system is much simpler and more robust than the old school 8" style locker with the electric motor, rack and pinion gear system, and position sensing tracks.

 

So, I find myself highly aligned with @Puppypunter on many things truck, even though we diverge on things dog

I was close to buying a 2020 AC I4 2wd Tacoma. But I really really wanted MT. And the AT I4 was truly gutless. And I wanted to mess with it b/c COVID project and need some outlet unrelated to small children which I get my fill of during the day.

I got "lucky" and a 2016 with 40k miles showed up looking clean so I went all in on that for roughly the same price as a MSRP on a new 2020 I4 AC. But if Toyota sold MT in 2wd SR AC that would have been the clear purchase for me.

In the end, I'm happy knowing someone else paid the majority of the initial depreciation and I got a truck I can mess with for roughly the same price. But I sure don't have any way to make use of 4wd right now. The DC is nice from both resale and family-friendly perspectives so it was a welcome benefit.

I do worry a little bit about resale after all the mods I'm doing. Trying my best to ensure everything I do can be undone or at least poses no significant impact from a resale perspective, but at some point the money spent has added up. I think my assumption is, if I really want a new truck down the road and most of the parts are still compatible, I'd revert to stock, sell, and transfer. That's what @deusxanime is doing right now and I think he's pretty happy with it.

My plan at the moment is to have this truck be my kids truck once they are of driving age. I have 10 years to change my mind on that.

 

i never understood that. guys pay 14 grand extra for parts they just remove anyways so they can say they own a PRO.

 

I'm pretty sure a 6" rancho lift, aftermarket wheels, a bull bar and chrome trim deducts $10k

 

SR Has adaptive cruise and as of 2020 has intermittent wipers - I almost bought one. The 20s at least have android and apple etc.

TRD brings push button start. Everything else is cheap enough to DIY put it in yourself if you really want it. Unless you want crew cab long bed then you can't get that in SR needs to be SR5.

 

2021 sr gets dual climate control and android auto/apple car play. gona be the best deal imo

 

I should have waited! Auto dual zone is the only creature comfort I wish I had. Otherwise I’m happy with my choice. If I need another one for some reason I’ll go that route. Debating about trading out for an access cab

 

Well, I pulled the trigger and wanted to say how great it felt walking in to the dealership really knowing what I wanted. This is Stevenson West Toyota in Denver, a big dealership ranked #1 in a lot of metrics. The parking lot was 80% empty. Toyota stopped production for 2 months is what I was told. My test drive was solo due to covid and in the first snow of the year. I tore ass up towards Golden, b/c there sure was nobody else waiting around for the truck at the dealership. I would have been happy w every Tacoma I looked at. I got the exact one I wanted which was the last 2020 of its type in production coming to the Denver area.

2020 V6 TRD OffRoad Access Cab Silver

I ended up w a tech package I didnt want, but finding OR Access Cabs was next to impossible. I couldnt be happier w the sales team though. I ran them through the wringer (politely) getting as close as possible.

The final call re the original question of the post was based on a couple things. Denver has a lot of OR's and nearly every SR is outfitted as a work truck (2wd access w/out the jump seat in white). When I got them to write down a real price for a real OR vs SR, the difference was just over $4k vs the $10k I was seeing in TN. Larger rear diff, rear locker, crawl control, fog lights, better suspension, better wheels/tires and the 12V outlet in the bed would cost me more than $4k. I should have it by the end of the month and plan to take it camping in Valle Vidal to celebrate. Thanks!

 

Very nice, enjoy!

 

I skipped to the end so I apologize if this was already mentioned, but the TRD OR, Pro, and any manual transmission comes with a larger ring and pinion, 8.75". So that's a benefit.

edit: Just saw that you purchased an OR, congrats!

 

Nice truck OP!

 

I looked at stevenson too.
What was the final price?
Congrats

 

(Minor) Plot Twist

There were a few OR Access Cabs ahead of mine w other people's names on them. The person ahead of me passed on a magnetic gray Tacoma w a selection of options that overall worked better for me, but it has Predator tubes. I put my name on it.

As I understand it, the Predators arent sliders to the point that they might even be a liability when they get bent on a rock creasing the door. Plus they take 3" of clearance away. I cannot see any way around taking these off and selling them while they are in good condition ... even if I am breaking my own rule of trying to get at least some use out of everything. Would it be weird to have them do it at the dealership and put them in the bed when I pick it up? Driving a new truck out of the dealership with some parts ratchedstrapped in the back would be in keeping w my TN upbringing. Haha. I bet in Denver I can post them on Craigslist and have them sold before I get the truck home.

All opinions appreciated.

 

It wouldn’t be weird to ask, but it’s also very easy to remove them yourself when you get home. It’s just a few bolts holding them on. With a 1/4” impact driver, it’ll take 5 minutes to remove them. 10 if you’ve gotta do it by hand.

 

Congrats!
My advice is to read up on how to use MTS/CRAWL and how the system works. I really like the electronic do-dads the OR offers, and when you understand it’s strengths and weaknesses, it works very well.
I’d recommend new tires as your first mod if you plan on any off road adventures beyond gravel roads or fire roads. The stock tire treads became chewed up real quickly from my experience. They sell pretty fast on Craigslist too.