Advice Needed - Seat warmer install/Add-a-fuse

It's getting cold here in Vail, CO and I am looking to get my 2011 DCSB ready for the winter. Just installed a remote start kit and now I would like to install a seat heater for the driver seat, I would like it to power on when I start the truck remotely. Found a good one on Amazon with good reviews and people have used it on Tacoma's, so it's on the way. I also have installed a Sound Ordinance amp/sub under driver seat so I have 8 gauge constant wire/ground under the seat if I need to use it, but I would prefer to use an ignition power source. I am pretty knowledgable with DC power and wiring, and I have researched this on these forums but can't seem to find a straight answer so looking to get a better answer here maybe... So here are my thoughts/questions:

• Here is the kit I bought, comes with all wiring and hard switch (so that I can leave it in the On position) : https://www.amazon.com/Interruptor-...002U6IL9O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
• I have not found any good videos or tutorials for removing the top seat cover and back cover enough to get the pads in there. Does anyone have tips or videos that show how to do this easily? Sounds like those Hog rings can be a pain in the butt!
• Here is the link to the Add-a-Fuse that I bought but I am not exactly sure where to put it... I can't seem to find the exact answer for which mini fuse in the dash fuse box is best for tapping into? I just need one that powers on only while truck is on, and can power 1.45 -4.45 amps. without causing any issues to the fuse/circuit its tapped into. Photo below of fuse box, which one have you had the most luck with? I was planning on just using the ground I have under the seat.
  $8 Lumision ADD Circuit Blade Style ATT Low Profile Mini FUSETAP Fuse TAP + Fuse Set 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 AMPS
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• I would also like to add a second Add-a-Fuse to power this USB plate (
  MICTUNING USB Power Socket with Audio Replacement for Toyota with 6.6ft Power Wire 3.9ft Audio Wire (Stereo USB Connector Needed)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013W8LQ7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), any advice on which fuse I should tap for that? Looks like it needs 2.1 Amps... And I may need a ground near the fuse panel for this, any photos of the best ground to use in this area?

Thanks for any advice!

 

Use the add a fuse for the switch to turn on a relay. Run a separate fused feed from the battery to the relay terminals 30 or 87.
As for having it come on in the morning with the remote start, just leave the seat heater turned on.

The heaters I installed had fuses for the heat close to the relay. I moved them (2 seats) close to the battery and ran a #14 zip cord through the firewall. One run and I had a feed for each seat.
This zip cord was originally designed for low voltage landscape lighting.

I found it easiest to do the seat back by disassembling the seat having the base and the back separate. There are several hog rings that need to be removed and reinstalled. You will also need to remove a piece of the heater material to accommodate the tuck in the seat back and bottom. There are hog rings there as well that need to be cut out and reinstalled. I bought a hog rings plier and hog rings as a kit from tractor Supply.

Do not make the long cuts parallel with the sides feeding the heater element. Under the cut it in my pic is a steel wire that hog rings together with one in the seat cover..

 

Awesome thanks for the tips.. I'm not quite sure if I understand what you mean by where to cut, but it does look like you cut out that middle area so that the wire can go over it? Assuming the goal here is to not have the hot/seat heater component pressed down by the wire/hog ties? I was hoping to just pull back a little bit of it and tuck in the seat heater so that I don't have to remove the whole cover. And on the wiring part of it, I've got a bit of an interesting question... Yes you could run new add-a-fuse I suppose, but I already have a amp under the seat with high amp wire for constant 12V and ground, and a remote wire that comes from radio (which I assume could act as the IGN 12 volt)... Hypothetically couldn't I run a fused 14gauge wire from the hot 12Volt on the amp to the relay and run the remote wire from amp to relay and use the ground from amp to relay.. That way I'm getting all the power I need and using the remote wire as the IGN 12volt on. Just seems like it makes sense since its all right there under the seat already and would reduce wire lengths. Again the load is only 4amps, so doesn't seems like to would negatively effect the amp or its power needs... Photos below. I know it might not be the exact "right" way, but seems like it could work fine and be safe.

 

I know what you're saying in tapping off of the amp, but I wouldn't. Just one more place to look if something isn't working. The remote wire should be coming from the head unit to turn the amp on.

Edit, I just looked at the heater kit. It's already cut out for the steel wires in the seat cushion and cover.

 

Wire it up as @Larzzzz said. That’s the way mine are hooked up and I have the same exact kit as you. If you use the remote wire on the amp your heated seats will only work with the radio on.

 

I installed these heaters purchased through eBay. The switch stays mechanically connected; that is, if the heaters are on when you shut down the engine they will be on when it starts. From the picture of the switch on the kit you linked to, it looks like it will operate the same way.

 

Not to mention the possibility of burning something up in the head unit running the relay of of it. Could be fine, I dunno.

Do it twice. Do it nice. And. We never have time to do things right, but we always have the time to do it again. 2 things I tell my helpers are unacceptable...

 

Good tips from all... I think I'll "do it right and not twice" And run two seperate tap-a-fuse circuits for the seat heater and another one for the USB outlet... But still didn't get answer about which fuse is the best to tap... Hoping someone has some tips or experience about which fuses are the best to tap into?

 

Tap the power outlet fuse. In my truck they shut off with the key.

 

Yea that's what I was thinking. And what would be the second choice? I'm going to do one add-a-fuse for the seat heater and another for an additional USB plug.

 

Wsh

 

The power outlet fuse is constant power. It feeds power to the contact on the ACC SKT relay.

 

Thanks for all your help. Install went well. The main thing I would say about doing this project with the seat heater install is to have an extra hand.. Pulling back the seat cover was pretty self explanatory, but when you start having to reach in with snips to cut the hog clips it does get a little complicated. You really need someone with you so that one person can push the cover down and the other person can push in with the hog clip pliers and reattach the clip... It takes a little muscle. But I did end up taping and adding a fuse on the rear power window circuit (20amp). Everything is working well. Installed the switch up by he center console. There is lots of room up there to stash the relay and wiring which is nice. Thanks again for the tips.