2nd gen manual transmission fix

Actually got around to installing my clutch and TOB last week.

Having issues, but just speculating at this point on the cause. On long drives I’m unable to easily get in and out of gears. Cold start in the morning and on short drives it goes into and out of gears OK. Not as smooth as stock setup though for sure.

I’ve bled the brakes twice (pressure bleeder) and I just ordered a compressor vacuum bleeder that will be here tomorrow.

My suspicion is that the system is getting heat soaked to the point of boiling the brake fluid? It would have to get pretty hot and I kind of have my doubts that it’s the issue. Last resort I’ll drain and fill with some of my expensive Motul as there’s no way that it “should” get that hot.

Any thoughts?

 

I mean regular DOT4 has a boiling point of around 509 °F and usually doesn't boil even during hard braking
Motul you have to pay way more per liter, for barely any boiling point improvement

And if's really boiling, wouldn't it be more than just you experiencing it?
German cars seem to run hot. I hear it's due to efficiency and getting more MPG. Maybe that's why the cool-running Tacoma gets worse MPG.
But yeah. Tacoma's seem to run cool. Sportbikes usually max their coolant temp at 210-220degF.
I'm not sure what oil temp normally hovers at when warm,

and obviously things like exhaust would be hotter
Problem being the SS line is both near the exhaust and in a transmission that attaches to the back of a hot engine

However, if that was an issue, I don't think CM would release the product then

Haven't tried any long drives yet. Just bled a second time and it seems to have improved a bit.
What type of pressure bleeder did you use? Electric or hand pump?

Is it with all new clutch parts?
One thing I noticed looking over my old clutch parts before throwing them away (replaced with new) is that the pressure plate fingers were crooked, probably caused by the stock setup lever arm (clutch fork) working off of a pivot angle design, when contacting it

 

There’s a lot going on in your response, much appreciated! Totally agree that it’s hard to believe that heat would be the cause, but just don’t see how else it could get so much worse after an extended drive.

SS lines near cat: addressing by wrapping in DEI sleeve. Should take care of the line heat and protect it from rubbing a bit more.

Bleeder used: Initial bleed used a mityvac. Second bleed used a motiv (pressure from top).

clutch parts: All new from Clutch Masters

flywheel: it was in surprisingly real good condition. machined to OEM stepping

A thought: it could be my master cylinder isn’t doing great and the hydro clutch just needs quite a bit more fluid to throw and release the clutch vs the standard slave cylinder type and therefore is a bit more sensitive to a leaky master. I did notice that when in reverse it especially gets locked into gear and I can pump the clutch from engagement point to floor a few times and it’ll release.

 

wats going on guys i was wondering is there a code for discount or is it better to contact clutch masters themselves
im in the process of upgrading my clutch to lce engineering with there heavy torque flywheel and was leaning more towards clutch master bearing kit
plus my 3rd gear is grinding so im dropping the tranny down to see the damage internally.

 

You'll have to wait around for a group buy...

 

I think there's a permanent discount code now

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...bearing-group-buy.643445/page-9#post-23182637

 

Hello everyone, I just replace my flywheel, clutch and pressure plate with URD stage 2 and heavy flywheel combo with aisin clutch release bearing in my truck a few weeks ago, after driving it for a while i noticed when things got hot i could hear a chattering noise coming from my transmission area when the clutch pedal was release and motor was at idle, so i did some research on the forums and found the TSB squeak/chatter from USA Toyota and noticed it says to replace the clutch release bearing (which it has been in with newer style with the current clutch install ) support fork pivot ball and the slave cylinder. So i so i bought the upgrade version of the salve cylinder and installed / bleed it myself and I noticed it helped some but the chatter would still come back after everything heated up again but not as bad as it was before the new salve ( also no noise when motor/transmission is cold FYI ). So the only thing is left to replace is the pivot ball which means dropping the transmission again to have it installed and hopefully that would finally fix the chatter noise. I took my truck back to the transmission shop yesterday that did the install so they could listen to see what they thought the sound was coming from and basically said it sound normal and couldn't hear it. Which is not true because i hear it myself since i have owned the truck for 11 years now and know exactly what noises it makes.

My questions:

1. So my question is now is it going to be worth dropping the transmission again to replace the fork support to see if that finally fixes that chatter noise?

2. Should I replace the fork its self with a new one to make sure there is a tight fit with the new pivot ball ?

3. Or should I save the money from replacing the clutch fork and fork support and go the route and purchase the Clutch masters N16078-H (TOYOTA TACOMA AND FJ CRUISER 6-SPEED RA60 / RA61) ? So then it should completely remove and chance of chatter now or in the future when things start to fail with the flawed clutch fork system ?

My transmission shop said it would only take a couple hrs to drop the transmission again since it was out already and things will go quickly, (i only paid $500 Canadian to have the everything done the first time) So it would be fairly cheap to do have the fork support installed. ( I have thought many times to do the work myself ) but for the couple hundred dollars Vs my time and doing everything on the ground on my back is just some times not worth it lol, or just live with the noise until something else fails? I just hate knowing that the fork it self will do damage to the bearing sleeve over time ( also the mechanic said the sleeve looked good when he did the clutch install )


Picture of the old and new fork support ( found on the forums )

 

The pivot ball won’t cause any noise. Not worth the trouble to drop to replace it. If you are set on getting rid of the noise, get rid of the stock setup. Install can be done in a day and then you’ll have a few hundred for beer and pizza.

 

Thanks for your advice. I am really leaning towards buying the clutch masters hydraulic bearing kit.

So what is it then making the chattering noise? I figured the fork it self was rattling on the end where the fork connects to the support pivot ball end because or bad design and wear and tear ? When i used a screwdriver to listen to the side of the transmission it was loudest between the mid housing to the back end of the bell housing basically just about the salve cylinder.

It goes away when the pedal is push in or when trans is cold as i mentioned.

 

Is there talk about another group buy or was that a one time deal? Anyone?

 

the bearing itself squealing on the input shaft. If you want to be certain, remove the inspection cover and you should be able to feel any movement in the clutch fork.

If your transmission shop that did the work didn’t notice it was worn when they first installed the new clutch, I wouldn’t trust them to pull the trans again, sounds like they would just be taking some more money from you. My pivot ball was still in pristine condition when I removed it to upgrade to the clutch masters kit. The only reason for that new design is that it matches the new fork and bearing as a set.

 

Not sure if you miss read my first post but i don't have a squeak noise it is a chatter sound. I had the squeak noise once before (around 30K Km )from my original bearing when i bought the truck brand new but Toyota replaced that many years ago under warranty. This is a completely different sound Like chatter ( two pieces of metal hitting each other ) this was never there before replace my clutch and everything few weeks ago. But now after that install this chatter noise has appeared.

Also I haven't seen no new fork design or replacement part numbers in my searches.

The TSB only replaces the clutch bearing, fork support and slave cylinder.

 

I may have misread your first post I apologize, but regardless that does not change what I'm recommending

Toyota issued the TSB (T-SB-0365-10) and it increases the spring length and pressure of the release cylinder (slave cylinder) to supply constant pressure on the throw out fork and thus bearing against the clutch pressure plate. I apologize, I mis typed above, meant to say fork pivot not fork. The reason for that noise is likely you disturbed where it was resting when the clutch was replaced. Did the shop replace the throwout bearing with the new part number (31230-60241) or the original offender?

 

( also the mechanic run his own transmission shop and he is a old friend which i trust) Yes the mechanic used the same bearing part number as was used by Toyota the first time the bearing was replaced. So both bearing replacements used 31230-60241, the only thing that wasn't or hasn't updated to the new version of parts is the pivot ball "fork support" 31236-35050 which leads me to think its lose enough inside the cup where the ball ends goes because its using the older version and causing the chatter noise probably from the bearing being maybe slightly unbalanced and shaking the fork, (i looked at the bearing while dust cover was off and didn't noticed any unbalance load on the bearing. I can feather the clutch pedal in and out a few inch several times in a row then bring it back to the resting position while the truck is idling and some times the noise gets better or worse when slave cylinder, clutch pedal, clutch fork, clutch bearing etc are all in there normal idle positions.
.
Part used couple a weeks ago



Part used by Toyota several years

 

Does the chatter go away above 2500 rpm while driving it?

 

I only hear the chatter sound at motor idle speeds apx 900rpm not in gear and clutch pedal released ( haven’t really tested or can’t remember if the noise goes away with high revs not in gear but I don’t really hear it when it’s in gear and driving).

I can press and hold the pedal in enough to stop the noise and just hear the bearing whine it naturally makes spinning around, holding it in just before it disengages the clutch from the flywheel.

 

8k miles on mine thus far and zero issues.

 

I had the clutch masters hydraulic bearing. It lasted about a month .I returned it and went back to stock.

 

What happened?

 

Leaked out all the fluid. Seal failed.