Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)

The biggest difference between the two is that one of them actually exists.

 

I know he did glass on the 4 runner that was at hammers, which is why I wouldnt be surprised if he glassed the tacoma.

It looks glassed to me, but maybe it's my eyes on this phone.

 

The 4 runner isn’t theirs. It’s a race team they work with. Steel city racing i believe. His is cut at the plastic fender line.

 

My fenders are cut for 35’s, what rubs is the firewall and front inner fender tub. I will have to cut/tub for 37’s, even with this kit. Since it moves the wheel forward, there will be alot more rubbing in the front wheel well without a doubt.

 

I have a tube bumper so moving it forward won’t effect me.
I don’t have cut fenders yet and my 35’s don’t rub. Plan is to do 37’s and a fender flare trim, leave some. I wanna keep it low is why I’m cutting fenders, but the Marlin kit says you can run 37’s and worse case you’ll run some paint. With my CMC already done I’m hoping the JD kit would work...cause it exists.

I’m just wondering if anyone has any experience with the JD kit.

 

Do you go off-road? It has to rub when turning and tire stuffed. I ran 35’s on the street with barley any trimming. On the street, you should definitely be able to clear 37’s with this kit. IF IT EVER GETS RELEASED.

 

ya I do. It rubs when the front compresses but not much. The rear stuffs and rubs a little. -12 offset seems to help.

 

Inner fenders are both pulled. I’ll build custom or use fend-x liners once I dial in ride height with whatever kit I end up with.

 

This all this. HolyHandGrenade did one of the best write ups on all the trimming he had done on his build thread to actually get the flex out of the front suspension. To add to this by limiting the bump of the front suspension and with lifting the trucks you are even more adding to the lack of flex in the front suspension. This then gets transferred into the frame and puts all the flex on the rear suspension. When you lift a truck all you are doing is using the potential droop and by adding bump spacers you are limiting the suspension from being able to stuff well. Gotta cut and chop to make it capable and if you are looking for a miracle to not have to it doesn't exist guys. This is what was being pointed out in these posts.

 

This is pretty ridiculous - you’re going to buy a $10,000 kit so you don’t have to cut your fenders or firewall for street driving? Any kit you’re going to have to tub for clearing the fenders and firewall at full bump / full lock if you want to clear 37’s on a truck that uses the suspension. If you want 37’s for the look without cutting fenders just get a drop bracket lift or a full size.

 

That’s the point of the kit. You can take your 40k dollar truck and bolt on the kit So you can run 37’s. Or even 40’s with minor trimming. I don’t want to tub the firewall, that’s the only block. The inner fenders, cab mount, pinch welds I’m fine with cutting.
Big mike goes in to big depth about the kit. The fact that’s it’s usable and not for just looks. I’ve seen every bit of video or pictures on the RCLT that the interwebs has.

The ONLY question I’m having is:

Anyone actually used the JD kit with 37’s. I talked to them and they said it pushes the hubs forward 1.5 inches, the website says .875.
That’s all, nothing more.

And yes. I’m spending 10k so I can drive it on the street and then go out and beat up on it. My last truck was great off road but leafs were a bit stiff on road. Trying to get the best of both worlds.

 

Gotcha

 

I’m fine with some massaging on that. For some reason I just don’t want to fuck with the firewall..

 

No way you’re going to stuff a 37 or a 40 without gutting the area above and around it. Buy a full size if you think you need 37’s or 40’s and don’t want to cut - but even a full size will have to get cut to stuff a 40.

 

I had 37’s on the 03 Tacoma and it wasn’t that tall. It barely rubbed at full stretch. Pretty sure I can do 37’s on the 2020 without going crazy with the cutting. The inner fenders I’ll address. No big there.
I guess I’m not getting any input on the JD kit, witch was all I was asking.

 

A 2000’s chevy 1500 rubs 35’s with a drop bracket on the street. lol.

I guess my question is, so with a long travel coil over that is physically longer, does it still have the same amount of compression? Does this kit or any long travel kit allow for that much stuff of the tire. Or does it just raise the truck and COG slightly?

 

I do appreciate this info though. Thanks.

 

You had a sas which put the axle way further away from the firewall. I had to tub all the way to the hinges on my first gen to really stuff a 35 with a vertical uniball upper full lock full bump.

If you want a truck that uses the suspension to its fullest potential you’ll have to accommodate for the tire size and in the case of the marlin kit the increased up travel you’re going to have to cut. The jd kit won’t have the up travel with the horizontal uniball upper but with a LT kit you’re going to have to relocate stuff if you want 40’s no matter what and most likely with 37’s if you want all the up travel.

One thing I’m wondering is what you plan on doing with the rear - the front won’t increase your overall performance if you’re bumping too early in the rear so you don’t have to cut sheet metal back there either.

 

It seems the front of the gen 3 Tacoma’s don’t flex much in the front, from what I’m seeing. With air bumps and the right preload I’d assume you can dial it in.

 

Modern full sizes can fit larger tires - check out 454 Motorsports on Instagram. They do a little minor trim on most full sizes to get bigger tires.

LT kits come with adjustable coilovers that let you set ride height to wherever you want it. Ideally you’d get roughly 50% up travel and 50% down travel out of the shock and kit. Typically it’s a 2”-3” lift over stock unless you’re running lift spindles with a prerunner.