4cyl 35x12.50s

i have an 02 2.7L tacoma. im about to lift it 9 inches and have 35x12.5s put on it. and i also have 4.88 gears to put in. will the gearing be enough or would i need more parts to put in so i dont lose alot of power by running the bigger tires? plus i am new about these things, and just need some info.

 

4.88's should be good, not super familar with tacos but in my ford ranger days that seemed to be the general consensus when going 35s

 

thanks. im also planning on putting in some intake and an exhaust system so thats extra hp to help out

 

Welcome to TW.

Not sure about the power loss. You have a 4x4 right? You will probably cause issues with your cv angles and driveline angles with that much lift, unless you have already accounted for that.

I will be interested to hear if anybody knows how that kind of tire setup will perform.

 

thanks this is all new to me. i purchased a 6 inch, and someone was selling a 3 inch lift for cheap so i picked that up as well. always wanted a lifted truck. my friends havent mentioned that to me actually so i figured it would be fine?

 

depends on what kinds of lift that they are

 

i dont think your supposed to stack lifts(like six inch and 3 inch) i forget why but im sure someone will come in and say why haha, but yeah 9 is a lot, especially for a reg cab, i think 3 inch will look really good but its all about what you want!

 

5.29 would be best but 4.88's might be okay especially since this will most likely be a street queen right?

And please tell me you have a 3" body lift and not suspension to stack on the 6".

Also, be ready to break lots of CV's and destroy your TRE's and ball joints much faster due to the huge tires.

 

you got that right lol

 

Probably not, you start getting issues with cv and driveline angles at 2.5. At 9, If you could even get it installed you'd probably destroy your cv's in a week.

x2

Still depends on what kind of lift, and how much. On the rear, you can stack an aal, shackle, and spacer lift. You need to address the driveline angles, but it can be done.

On the front, you can stack a coil lift and a spacer lift. You shouldn't really, but it can and has been done.

Either setup can be stacked with a body lift.

All that being said, I personally do not like spacer lifts. They increase leverage on your suspension without increasing it's strength or movement. So they don't ride very well, and are more likely to cause things to break.

Body lifts, yeah if you really need the lift for your tires, ok fine. Generally, not much point as they do not increase your ground clearance.

To the OP, at a minimum with that much lift your going to need the following.
1. New upper control arms
2. New lower control arms
3. Axle shims
4. Carrier bearing drop
5. Differential drop
6. Longer brake lines
7. New front and rear shocks, that are longer

You might want to revise your plans for lifting. With 9" your basically going to have to replace the entire stock suspension, among other things.

If you have pics/links to the lift kits you've got, maybe we can help you decide what to use/not use.

 

Its a 6inch fabtech and a 3inch body lift. Its gonna be used for running on sand and sometimes in mud mahalos for everything

 

That's how, 6 + 3 that's the Hawaii special. 5:29 brah burn rubbah

 

if your not concerned with mileage, i would go with 5:29's the 4:88's will be good for a street queen but in the mud you will hate it.. i promise

 

Rajah dat...cheeee pono

 

ok good, just wanted to make sure you weren't planning on 9" suspension.

Also what are the specs on the wheels you were planning on?

 

Hmm, if your mudding you might want the body lift. I'd do one at a time though, and see if you need/want the body lift.

This should be your kit.
http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/products/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=50&display=TOYOTA 4WD

The arched lower control arm crossmember has probably reduced the relative difference for both the upper and lower control arms. Can't tell for sure, but that's probably within tolerance for your control arms.

The rear lift is an aal, which I can't believe is more then a 4" lift though. Take your stock rake into account, and it's probably about level after it's all installed.

Looks like they got you covered with new front shocks. You may still need longer rears, but drive it first and see if you are bottoming them out.

I still can't see how your going to keep from messing up your cv joints with this setup. Definitely need a diff drop kit. They are cheap, so no big.

Carrier bearing drop would still be a good idea. Probably not critical though. Same with axle shims. Your absolutely going to need longer rear brake lines though. Otherwise, the first time that rear axle moves down your going to rip your rear brake line and not have any brakes at all. The front might have the same problem, can't tell from the kit info though.

FYI: Though it's hard to tell from the info on this kit, it appears that the 6" of lift your supposed to get has been calculated to include the difference in the tires. Most lift products are calculated without the height change from the tires included.

 

With drop bracket lifts the whole diff is lowered 6" making the CV angles like stock...

 

Ah good then. Frankly, I hadn't really looked at a drop bracket lift before. You see anything that would account for the carrier bearing bracket? Still would need long brake lines, since the lines are attached to the frame.

 

yeah thats the lift im getting. i am also running 15x10 classic 2s, and 35x12.5s baja claws. and on the box it says a performance body lift...

 

okay that should work. Just making sure you don't have those rediculous 15" wide wheels with 12.5" tires mounted on them like I've seen some people do over there in Hawaii. Thats just plain dangerous.