Ontario BS Thread

it's currently cut like this.
preferred to cover up where the steel bolt holding the inner fender is

 

yeah it's a pipe dream i'm going after apparently. from what they have compared to what i have, i'll run what i have for the time being. Until i tear the oem ones off entirely, i'll consider these rokblokz (that's a cringy name).

i've noticed i'm also rubbing against the cab mount... it's *just* touching them for the time being, seems i'll avoid going full lock left/right if i can help it....


but hey, found out i mangled a few bolts for the RCI plates...


mangled 2 bolts, and busted out one of the OEM nuts that's tack welded into place beside the LCA cam adjustment, crushed one of the bushings..

today is also the first time i've ever needed a wing nut to bolt something down...

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

how clean does the underside need to be to use that stuff?

i have 3 years of buildup from the original grease my dad put on

 

I usually just pressure wash mainly to get any salt or things that could cause rust off. Then I spray everything liberally. I was paying $150ish for rust check, but now I do 2-3 vehicles for under $100.

 

One benefit of Fluid Film (and other thin coatings like Krown) is it allows the substrate to "breathe". You can spray over anything and it won't trap moisture underneath.

 

I traded my Tacoma and got a Jeep today!

 

for creativity you get a 10
for location and mounting 10
for the idea 10

 

Looks OEM


Show up at the next Jeep rally like that, no one would be suspicious!

 

More cardboard-aided design (CAD)?

 

Anyone know where I can pick up a 5/16 puck for a Warn winch last minute? Supposed to be heading North Monday and just finishing up with the winch install and somehow missed placed this ******* puck.

 

Its to attach the synthetic rope to the drum...

 

One thing that will also help Fluid Film displace any existing moisture,
and to treat any corrosion that has started,
and to seep a little bit more into nooks and crannies is to add....

ATF (Auto Trans Fluid) to it, or to spray a light coat first.

I litre of ATF to 1 big can of FF .


And while I think about it, another neat trick if you want to make cleaning mud and crap off of it (and so it does not collect as much dirt) is to spray the crap out of your wheelwells and then a light coat over your FF areas (after a few days to let it settle) with Silicone Spray Lube (or non-food grade mold release).

 

Special order part... can buy on 4wheeparts.


Temporarily you can wrap with electrical tape that end so it doesn’t slide out.

 

Ya, checking online now, several places advertise them. But most are out of stock or in the states was hoping to grab one quickly. Trying to exhaust all options before making something

 

What does the atf do?

 

If anyone wants to do rustproofing and does not have a compressor and the spray guns with the nozzles and wands...
(shutz gun and second gun with 90deg tip and a 30" flexible hose with 360 tip)

You're more than welcome to stop by my place and use my equipment (or borrow it for the day).

I'm up on Hamilton mountain about 10 mins from our last Mall Crawl meetup.

Sorry no pit or hoist though,
but I do have a creeper... jacks, jackstands... tarps.. driveway...

 

ATF has additives in it specifically to stop galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals as well as regular oxidation. (adds an anodic chemical)
The detergents in it will soften up any grease/oil/waxes that have hardened and may have trapped moisture underneath and will penetrate into it better than FF will.
It also "creeps" further into areas than just plain FF does (unless the FF hot and is applied to warm surfaces).
Neutralizes any existing rust.
Just don't soak any rubber parts in ATF and don't get it even near your door seals.


FF is mostly a "barrier" product, while it does displace some moisture it does trap some of it in very fine crevices.
Any existing rust does not get neutralized it just gets stopped because the barrier blocks O2.
Galvanic corrosion can still happen as it does not require oxygen.

One thing I like about FF is that it washes off with soap and water real easy.
It is also one thing a dislike about it.
In the real high water spray and winter sludge areas it did not last a full winter for me. (rear wheel wells, front of rear diff, prop shaft, front subframe)

In those areas the best type of barrier products are cosmoline based.
Only way your getting that stuff off is Varsol or gas.
Spray it with a soapy pressure washer all day and it won't clean off.

 

Sweet. Good to know. I’ll mix a bit into the gallon I have and go from there. I don’t do much winter driving with the truck but after I boxed the back half of the frame I don’t want any issues.

 

I have one right here in my hand.


My winch is not being installed until closer to the end of this month maybe early Oct. If you can replace it by then you can have this one.

How can I get this mystical item into your hands?