3.4L supercharger

You can do that.

 

For the high performance engine they have what looks like a fuel rail and methanol gets sprayed into each cylinder.
URD actually made an aluminum spacer at the throttle body at one time were the nozzle screwed into the spacer

 

Ordered:

$110 GlowShift 10 Color Digital 300F Dual Temperature Gauge Kit - for Water Coolant, Oil, Transmission Temp - Includes 1/8-27 NPT Electronic Sensors & Wiring - Multi-Color Display - Tinted Lens - 2-1/16"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BG9QFGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The used supercharger I bought came with one of these. It’s not exactly like the one shown in your post but it’s similar.

 

That’s either the URD one or a custom made one. The one above is for a different application.

 

What other application would something be injected via a hole in a spacer?

 

NA, turbo... etc

Meth is pretty good on most vehicles

 

Maybe I wasn’t clear. I was referring to that water/methanol injection plate being made for a LS or something else.

 

Hey guys, looking for a little help here.

I'm having an issue keeping oil in my supercharger. I've gone in and re-sealed the nose cone two different times, and replaced the front seal once, but I'm still constantly leaking oil. My mating surfaces were cleaned and scratch free both times I sealed it up, and a good amount of sealant was used.

Any idea why I'm having issues with this or anything I might be overlooking?

 

Ah, makes sense!
Thanks!

 

I will buy it if you want to sell it,
1st dibs.
Just pm me

 

Is it leaking from the front nose seal too?

Use carb cleaner to remove ALL oil on seams,

You can use ultra grey gasket maker

HAS TO DRY 24 hours!

Torque to 20 pounds in this order.

 

The temperature gauge uses a magnifying lens so if you have a straight view the numbers are bright and clear,

If it’s at an angle where the clock is on mine the numbers are a bit dimmed,FYI

It does have a Light dimmer wire when you turn your headlights on.
Those wires are there in the clock wire harness
AND you can use the black cardboard holder the gauge is supported in the box to
use as your backdrop.
You will understand when you take it out of the box what I’m saying

 

I appreciate the info.

I believe it's just leaking from the two flanges that mate up. My nose cone seal is brand new so it shouldn't be leaking.

I'll go ahead and give ultra grey a try and torque in the order shown.

Should I use ultra grey on the rotor casing mating surface to rotor assembly surface, as well as the nose cone mating surface to rotor assembly surface? I know the rotor casing to rotor assembly surface is only seeing air, but sealing it should prevent boost leaks.

 

Ultra grey is the best stuff to use and most forgiving,
Yes,

Use super fine sandpaper to clean the seams and a razor for any old parts of gasket.

Or I always use my dremel with a wire wheel

 

Here the drill and tap for the sensor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353075119683

 

Thanks.
I've already drilled and tapped mine before I installed supercharger. I had a bunk welded Intake tube also.

 

The sensors are pretty dam big that they use, maybe a different size ,ok,

You can cross reference the bit and tap size above and thread pitch

 

An update from my bone stock SC - after several tanks of gas I believe my pinging is fixed by adding octane boost to the gas. I have towed the quad from 6000 to 10,000 feet twice now with no pining using the octane boost and the uphill power I have is amazing!

I can get a 12 pack of octane boost for ~$65. This is my hobby vehicle so I only fill up on average twice a month or less. So I'll pay a bit more per month on a fill up but I am getting great mileage (20 mpg on one tank) so it is definitely worth the extra power. The amount of boost that I get with the stock setup is more than I expected for this old truck so I'm happy.

 

Nice! My truck is a daily driver and I usually fill up only once or twice a month. Haha