1996 toyota Tacoma 2.4 pickup I DROVE TO STORE CAME OUT DEAD NO SPARK

Got it towed home

Replaced the Dist, replaced the spark plug igniter module still dead I'm 79 and I need it.

Lots of things I can't do, but damn this is electrical but my education on ignitions ended

with my 87 Honda, I still have with classic plates on it now.

I can't find a block diagram to explain to me how it works, I'm not an electronics dumb, just don't have the info how the system works, the computer plug reader gives no error code

GETS GAS:

REPLACED Dist/ Coil set

KICKS over

Will check the crankshaft sensor tomorrow for power and ground in and signal out if this goes into a pro shop I will report WHAT WAS WRONG if they can fix it.

I hate to ask for help, but HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP PLEASE

 

Is the starter engaging? Does it turn over?

 

Sounds like the coil.

 

OH yes, it turns over, no spark if I test for spark, with a spark plug, grounded, smell gas in the exhaust checked the fuses C point on spark plug igniter module measures 12 v will drop to 9 when turning over the engine, so I assume it's OK plus new

 

Changed its built-in DIST.

 

Dist rotor?

 

The rotor would of been new with the new dist

 

You checked battery connections? Are they corroded?? Loose ground? What do the cables look like? Just making sure you covered the basics. Did you clean the MAF when you changed the igniter?
I'm not sure if battery voltage should be going down to 9v when cranking

 

YES

 

done it

 

How many spark plug lines did you check.

 

All replaced first one I bought on Amazon it was bad no dealer Amazon direct the rotor who thing was crap from a Canada co sent back here is a pic of the junk

 

Of course, the C point would go lower, a transistor is turned on and off at the rate of the signal going into the device so with a DC meter it should read lower, which is a GOOD THING NOT BAD

It shows it's working, but I don't know if the C point is the return end of the coil primary or not, but I measure 220 ohms to the plus side of the battery so I assume that is the point.

Again, I'm really looking for a correct wire or block diagram so I can learn the circuit not guess everything has a logical answer only women think magic happens


SO BOTTOM LINE I ASKED A MECH BUDDY 3 WEEKS AGO CAN IT BE THE CRANK SENSOR HE SAID NO, SO IS HE RIGHT OR WRONG?

 

Did you take the dist off while turning it over to verify the rotor is spinning?

 

ONE then I went direct to with the cap off to high voltage post plus an engine will run bad but run on 3 plugs that I'm sure of had a 55 VW in 1960 run on 3 plugs on pulled over and sure enough one popped off, I got parts from that for free if your local, and want them no shipping COVID is the reason it's trying to kill me I got to many Med issues

 

OH yes I did it turns so this time this truck its not a timing chain my 22RE had one blow that truck got fixed and someone is driving it around North Africa with 400k THIS TRUCK ONLY HAS 129K MILES

 

I wouldn't buy auto parts on Amazon. Stick to retailers who get decent parts, Rock Auto, several dealers have good on line prices,

 

Yes, it could be the crank sensor!!! Did it throw a code, is the CEL on? that will help isolate it.

 

Try unplugging the IAT and start it. I had a 96 ext cab 2.4L Taco. For whatever reason when the IAT was plugged in, it took 20-50 cranks to start. At times I could be cranking it for 10-15 minutes before she would start. Once I unplugged the IAT it always fired on 2nd crank.

 

NO I did not clean the MAF where is it here is a picture under my hood???