Cincinnati Area Thread (Tri-State, Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana)

Pretty sure my steering rack is on the way out. What was your rack doing?

Any advise on what to order? Did you replace the lines? Anything else I should replace while I'm at it?

 

My steering rack was leaking at both ends, into the rubber boots around the inner tie rods. Fluid level would drop slowly over time and I could see fluid on the bottom of both boots, but never actually had puddles in the driveway. My steering wheel was also very loose with excess vibration on any uneven surfaces. That’s why I opted to replace the intermediate shaft as well (that and getting it off the old rack was the most difficult part of the job).

I ordered a new Cardone rack, with inner tie rods and new hoses (both high and low pressure). Probably could have reused the low pressure hose but the high pressure hose was seized on the rack and got destroyed during removal. I also bought a new screw in nipple for the low pressure side and new mounting bolts for the rack and the hoses. I also bought and installed Energy Suspension Poly steering rack bushings for the new rack.

Outside of the bushings, intermediate shaft, both hoses and maybe the outer tie rod ends, nothing really else you’d need/want to replace with the rack out.

 

I just had my rack out about 2 years ago. So I don't think the hoses are seized onto it. I didn't know if they recommended a replace them because of potential contamination in the lines.

I have a definite stiffness when I turn the steering wheel either direction. I'm going to disconnect the intermediate shaft tonight and see if it might be from the u-joints.

 

Just checked the intermediate shaft. Pretty sure that's the issue. 1 U joint pivots fine, the other is stuck good. I'll replace that first and see.

 

Ehh spray with some PB Blaster and whack it with a hammer...

Kidding

 

I got my Total Chaos cam guides and gussets in,,,, yep, guides and gussets. They’re all separate and each have to be welded. I was already concerned about finding someone local that could weld there on for me before I knew they were all separate pieces.

Dreading the price tag on this one, and the raising hell if the quality of Kokomo craftsmanship holds true.

 

What's the guide? I'm only familiar with the gussets & I didn't see the guide on their site.

 

They call them cam guide gussets.

 

I'm also confused. Only see the cam tab gusset kit. I think Marlin, and maybe someone else, makes a gusset set for the entire mounting point. And then 81Trekker and JD Fab? make a complete weld-on brace that replaces a lot of things and adds what's needed for big tires, but kinda spendy.

 

This. @rdpoe has the Marlin kit and may chime in, but I'm of the mind that a lil bendy on your IFS/frame interface may be preferable to shearing LCA bolts on the trail. TC cam gussets being preferable, DYF cam-tab-melting reinforcement beads FTW.

 

I’m confused too. i have no idea where I got cam guide gussets.
Starting over,,,,,,,
I’ve got a whole bunch of pieces of metal that I have to somehow get welded on my lower control arms.
If I didn’t just have all the bushings replaced I’d pick up a set of lower control arms that already have said metal pieces welded on to them. If I’d taken the time to zoom in the picture that I was buying I would’ve known that I was buying a whole bunch of metal pieces. But like a dumbass, again, I just hit checkout.

 

If if if

 

So the slightly "A" or weird "O" shaped flat pieces replace the spot-welded guides that need air hammered off the mount brackets of the frame. The square stock pieces get welded into the flat "A" first, then each little assembly gets welded to the mount brackets.

Like Everett said, I'm just gonna attempt to stand my stock ones back up 90° and weld a bead behind them. I've got a few front-end things to rethink and experiment with after 35s, so I plan to just disassemble a couple things anyway. I'll pull the LCA out entirely and get the rubber outta there and grind bubblegum without a second thought lol!

 

They weld to the frame so the new LCAs would do nothing for you. No worries there!

 

I’d read about the bead and would’ve been shot better off having it done while it was still possible.

 

My new OEM cams and bolts are in.

 

Why is the added gusset and material needed?

being a gravel road, shallow puddle and 7’ high garage door limiting putting anything bigger on each corner...I am lacking this knowledge.

 

Finally had something go tits up on me. Unfortunately i think it's the Throw Out Bearing which i just replaced 3k miles ago with a OEM toyota part. DAMMIT. Tranny comes back out Sunday

 

My passenger rear might not be recovered lol it's VERY flat! But I'm gonna try, or be in the same boat as you.

 

The LCA alignment tabs and brackets are likely the weakest points of the front end. It doesn't take much, on or off road, to knock them out of skew.

I have dicked around about them for 3 years now, biting me in the ass.