Cranks but won’t fire

Well all I got now is maybe you have bad gasoline.

 

But how can the fuel be bad if it ran prior to repairs?

 

Good question.

It will run on starting fluid as he said 30 seconds. So it has spark.
Checked fuel pressure via gauge and he has fuel pressure.
Checked Injector signals with a Noid Light. All come on.
Cranks but will not run without starting fluid.
And he says that the plugs are wet after an attempted start.

That is what I get from reading the thread.

The only variable I see would be the starting fluid it runs with it and without starting fluid it doesn't.
Logic indicates a fuel problem.


I really need to know the final outcome of this... It's killing me and the OP must be losing his mind.

 

Did you have anything done to the valvetrian when the head was off?

 

This - even if the gas went off, I would still expect a few coughs, pops and farts. I've never seen gas go so bad that it wouldn't make any noise unless it's VERY (years) old, and even then, you usually get something.

 

How much gas is in the tank anyway?

 

He says he has fuel pressure ( although a bit high ). Maybe someone filled the tank with water...

 

None of this makes sense to me. Especially if the gas was fine before this repair. Even if water got into the tank or something, it should still pop a little and run rough or at least sound like it wants to fire. He said the plugs were wet with gas (definitely a difference between that and water). Initially it made me think there was a computer issue causing the plugs to not fire for a security or safety reason. But it running on starting fluid tells me something different.

Unless it is firing from compression like a diesel. However, I don't believe these engines get anywhere near enough compression to self ignite even something like starting fluid. But, if that was the case, spark would then be your issue still.

 

Just curious if there is room to add a few gallons of fresh gas..

 

I read through this thread this morning and now Im curious of the outcome as well.

Does the I4 have the same fuel pressure requirements and check procedure as the V6? Almost 20 PSI over recommended seems odd

 

FWIW I was just listening to a pod cast from my favorite mechanic(Agco automotive)and he mentioned in his trouble shooting methods is that the fuel pressure should be read while cranking/running. Good head pressure is not always a sign of a good fuel pump. I guess he is saying dont forget volume. However I would think some fuel would be passed to give u a cough or sputter....

 

Yes the fuel pressure for the 2TR-FE engine is the same as the V6 1GR-FE.

 

Yes it’s killing me and I have a half tank of gas

 

I put a half tank in 2 days before it went down I’m right at half tank

 

Yeah it won’t hit a lick I’m going to take the timing over back off tomorrow which I don’t want to do but I’ve got to see if the Crank sensor sprocket reader thing is in there correct

 

I wish I had more advice for you.

Did you get any gasoline from the supply line to the rail, like squirt it into a bucket. Then pour a bit on the ground and see if it burns well?

I know that is really grasping at straws.

 

Yes, but then then it makes no sense that it would still fire on starting fluid if timing is bad.

 

So it doesnt bother anyone else that OPs pressure is reading way higher than the standard pressure - in which case Toyota recommends a new fuel pump? Per your post #11 on Pg 1

 

If the pressure is too high will it flood the engine?

 

I really dont know, but almost 40% over the specified fuel pressure range doesn't seem insignificant.