Interesting read on gear oil

It doesn't.

It just says that we should avoid towing for the first 1k, or something like that. There isn't even a driveline fluid replacement noted in the standard service categories. Only the severe service.

 

https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/ this bout says it all for super tech im sure its the same for the gear oil, I wish the book would finally close on whats the best oil, as long as it meets the manufacturers spec and government requirements its good

 

Close, but different.

 

Exactly. Engine break in is usually 500-1000 miles as well, yet first oil change is at 10,000 miles per service manual.

 

"Do not tow a trailer" is Toyota's operating restriction for rear diff break-in. Again, your choice if you want to drain out all the metal shavings from break-in afterwards. Keep in mind the rear diff has no filter, just a weak drain plug magnet.

 

Post pics of said metal shavings when you change your diff gear oil at 500 miles please.

 

if you have the time and money for an early break in drain and makes you sleep better at nite do it, theres plenty of tacos on the road with thousands of miles on them never did any driveline service including grease, not that's its a good thing, but

 

That is putting words into the manual. It was interesting reading the saab OM. There was additional details in some sections where it would say things like "engineers did this because . . ." It was probably the most interesting OM that I have ever read.

Like I said, I swapped at 7k. That seemed reasonable for me and my purposed and 60k going forward as I do not intend to sale the truck.

 

There was a pic in another thread. It looked as expected, dark gray. That said (and probably agreeing with what you're thinking?), 500mi to 1,000mi is a bit early?

 

I bought a used truck at 49k miles and did what is called a 30k service because I had no maintainence records on it, the rear diff was under filled about .40oz. and had gnarly metal shavings and silver gunk accumulated on the magnet and dirty as hell, the previous owner used it as a work truck and towed, but the magnet did its job very good IMO, replaced with redline 75w85 its been fine now over 120k miles

 

According to my 2019 Warranty and Maintenance Guide, 15,000 miles is first “inspection” of differential oil, and “replacing” for special operations such as towing or heavy loading.

 

Motul Gear 300 user here. ~$90 for 5L off Amazon. I'm sure its top notch. However, might try Amzoil next go around, simply because the squeeze capri-sun like pouch is an awesome idea.

 

Thanks for the info, not changing diff fluid.

 

DAMN. Castrol didn't even make the list, must mean my truck is going to explode...

 

Agreed. I would bet that for WallyWorld, Costco, and Amazon, they have a lot more buying power that may enable the lower prices while cutting out the brand labeling? That said, I would want to look over the VOAs, bases, and such. Since I'm too lazy to dig that deep, esp with the real possibility of version changes, I stick with what I have used.


So true on the cost though. I tried to convince many that motorcycle oils were marketing BS. Motul was one of the big offenders in my mind. $20+ per quart and peeps were still changing it at half or less than the OEM OCI. I run diesel oils and used to put on way more miles than most others.

Agreed! The funny one there is that a hard shell topper is considered special / severe. I generally follow that category though.

 

I have been using the severe gear easy fill pouches for a couple years, and it is by far my favorite way to fill gear lube. Even is someone tells me its no better than Walmart syn lube, I will keep using it if only for the pouches. I did my needle bearing recently and used Lucas with the hand pump and forgot what a pain in the ass that is in comparison.

 

One thing is that you will need more than 5l since you would also want to do the front diff at the same time. From what I have seen myself and what has been posted, it comes out looking as bad as the rear. It uses less fluid, but with the ADD setup, the spiders are always spinning.

The pouches are very cool. My plan for the next swap is to make a pressure filler out of a new, dedicated weed sprayer. I used a small pump the first time and it took forever.

 

When i changed my gen1 tundra differential at the first 30k miles there wasn't even any metal fillings on the drain plug magnet to write home about. I replaced it again at 60k miles and so on. I towed a lot with that truck..over 1k miles a week. Never had a differential, or transfer case issue for 292k miles, and as far as i know the truck is still running great for its new owner.

 

This stuff is all totally fascinating. It wasn’t until I came to TW, that I ever realized things like differentials and transfer cases needed fluid changes. All the way through, from being a kid and helping my dad, to owning my ‘06 taco, all I was taught was to check the level and make sure it was good, top up as needed. Never had a diff or xfer case problem. Doesn’t mean I won’t be changing these oils going forward, just that I haven’t historically and haven’t had any issues either.

Granted, I don’t use my truck in any sort of extreme. It takes me back and forth, carries a moderate load once in a while, takes me up into the woods to chase deers and such.

 

That's what made my decision for me, so much easier than pumps