1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

But that requires new UCAs and I just spent a pretty penny for nice bushings to go in my stock arms. That's the biggest reason for me sticking to 31s. Plus when I regear to 4.30s my speedo and odo will be spot on exact with 31s

 

What sucks is my caster is back to about 2˚ now after my last alignment since they had to mess with it a bunch to get it to drive straight until I get new spindles.

My SPC ball joint on the passenger side is in the normal setting and it's completely reversed on the driver side lol.

At least it drives straight now though

 

Hopefully your tires will last longer this time

 

Everyone that I've talked to (or posts I've read) that use 33s have had to, so I assume I will when I get my 33s on.

The 32s I'm running don't rub anywhere at all on the Tacoma, but that could be because they're skinny.

 

Wait, @eon_blue got new tires already?

 

I don't know if you necessarily need aftermarket UCAs to achieve those caster numbers...I was able to get over 3˚ just via the lowers (normal adjustment). It's pushing the max and supposedly will put more strain on the bushings but it might be doable with stock upper arms, I'm not positive though

 

If i go bigger than 32s I'll only ever runny a skinny tire. I greatly prefer the skinny bois anyway they track through mud so much nicer

 

No just talking about having to trim for the 33s I have on now

 

Oh I thought you did get new tires cause of your cupping issue due to the shitty alignment

 

Tell me about it lol. I figure they will, having to constantly fight against the pull was the reason they wore so badly before. It tracks straight now even though the caster is uneven side to side by a little over 1 degree. Under normal circumstances that would create a pull

If new spindles doesn't solve it I don't know WTF to look at

 

I'll make sure I don't have a hole there either

 

You say that now lol, but you have to trim back the flare in order to get to the pinch weld since the pinch weld is behind it. Or just ditch the flares

 

I'll set it on fire first, but yeah

 

Dick

 

is that a promise

 

Worst case, flex seal

 

What happens in Moab, stays in Moab

 

My plan:

1. Take flare/fender/plastic liner off truck
2. Best the piss out of/cut pinch weld till it’s very clear of tire
3. But fender n shit back on
4. Heat gun till the plastics clear tire

 

I was just about to mention the heat gun/re-molding trick, I tried that but it didn't really work. Just started to melt the outer part of the flare while it was still solid beneath. I dunno maybe there's a better trick to it