1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

I need to watch that again, such a good movie

 

2nd one is pretty good too, but definitely not as great as the first

 

I have the Toyota teaching guide for tcases and transmissions, so no opinion here. In both the AWD case and the 2WD capable cases if the front doesn't have add (why would awd anyway but it's important to explain) the chain is always turning, no matter what a chain is driven, that part of the design is completely unchanged. Manual hub vehicles locked in, spin the chain, as long as the truck is moving the internal oil pump is driven. There is no harm in running a normal t case with a non add front. It's actually a popular mod on here for 2nd gens so people don't break add stubs or have actuator failures hinder them.





Unless you just want to have an extra failure point or you have some weird urge to swap differentials, I don't see any reason you'd need to. You currently have the most stout setup.

 

That's the best information I have gotten from anyone yet! Thank you @Speedytech7!! I just wish you would have provided that before I bought the ADD diff. BUT, now I have a spare front diff that all I need to do is swap the ADD tube out on for the same, full-time tube my 4R already has. This will make it easy sending it out for re-gear and front locker. Basically zero down time involved that way.

 

How does that apply to flat towing a vehicle? I've always assumed that a t-case in neutral isn't spinning the oil pump.

 

It isn't, when you decouple the rear output shaft you get no tcase oiling, you have to leave it in 2wd and leave the manual trans in neutral, which means it gets no splash lubing because the counter shaft isn't spinning.... Soo now you know why flat towing is not possible. Thanks for attending my TED Talk

 

Cool. So drop the driveshaft, always.

Thanks for the confirmation!

 

This was my post till I edited it to mention the part time 4x4 fj t case

 

2004 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road
https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6712250

 

Well, I'm going to have to wait a week before I can do the swap. Problem is getting the driveshaft measurements and taking the driveshafts to the shop to be lengthened. Shop is only open M-F. I have my regular 3 day weekend not this weekend but the next. I could get off work Thursday, drop the driveshafts and old tcase, get the FJ case up there for driveshaft measurements and then just need to figure out a way to get them to the shop Friday morning and hopefully they can turn them around pretty quick. Same Day would be fucking awesome. I might need to rent a car for the weekend tho.

Fuck.

 

I don't need another vehicle

I don't need another vehicle

I don't need another vehicle

 

@cruiserguy
Was playing with NH3 yesterday

 

@cruiserguy

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFQukzMpOj9/?igshid=xaryei20zv5u

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFQoijmnFgP/?igshid=ml14cg7yzspx

 

That's sexy too

 

@Speedytech7 why not a spool in the front diff if it's add, no bind with it disconnected on road just because theres a shit on of bind if it's engaged?

 

If you used the ADD as a sort of ghetto locker engage for a spooled front end. You'd basically lose normal 4wd which could be tough. When the front locker is on theres no turning, turning with a locked front end is super hard on absolutely everything and reversing with a locked high pinion front can be disasterous, like gear shatteringly so

 

So don't weld the spider gears cause I'm cheap... Got it

I only ever find myself frequenting mud and sand no rocks or any other high traction surface so I'd assume it would be fine on strictly mud and sand

but nowhere with traction

With a locker basically you'd need to turn it on and off all the time I'd guess

 

No, don't make a brake lever for each individual wheel either

 

Yeah it would be fine there I guess. Can't turn though without digging when you're locked like that so power be ones important to keep wheel speed up