vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma

Fixed! Thanks for sharing your tunes and the write-up. It really helped. I built a pretty solid 1st tune - 04B04, 5.29 premium, w/ 32” tires. Power deliver is great, but I really need to dial is the shifting. With 5.29s I gain nothing by going to redline at WOT in 1st and 2nd hear can this behavior. Can we adjust max RPMs allowed for each gear?

 

don't double post, already answered in your thread.

 

@OVTune

tried a different laptop and it’s not even letting me get to click anything

 

If you are on a different laptop, you need a different reg key. The system ID will be different.

 

New news to me. Damnt.

I still don’t think that’s the issue

this is the furthest it makes it.

the OBD connector flashes like normal, rapid blinking during flashing, then slow flash when it fails.

 

I think I had something similar happen to me a while back. I turned off my internet connection and turned off firewalls/protections and then it worked out.

 

Everything is off.

bought a new USB cable, not working.

what’s kinda scary is that the flash manager now is showing 12.1ish volts, even when connected to another car.

when I disconnected the booster car, 11.6-11.8 but the battery leads were reading 12.2.

@OVTune

 

What if you pull the battery and connect your 4Runner battery to the truck to flash it. Or go buy a new battery?

 

1. What are the difference in these tables? ECT is pretty self explanatory, but I'm not clear on the differences between the others.
2. How do I change the behavior of the AT passing gear? I want to be able to apply more accelerator position before a down shift is required.
3. Can we limit the max speed allowed in any gear at WOT? I'd really like to be able to control the WOT shift in 1-3 to not go past a certain RPM, but that doesn't seem to be an option.

 

I've tested all of the primary shift tables 1 through 8 and none have done anything for me except for the first primary shift tables. I'm talking cold starts, WOT, 4high, traction nannies off/partially off. So I now only modify the first primary shifting tables and they do everything I expect. I haven't tested 4low or the acceleration tables however. ECT is also as you probably know, used when in ECT.

With that out of the way here's an example of how the upshift and downshift tables work. When looking at the shift tables, the two numbers are the gear change occurring so upshift 3-4 is the 3 to 4 shift. The downshift 3-4 table is when it downshifts from 4 to 3. When trying to tweak when it upshifts there is a bit of further investigation you need to do to find out what the speed on the table translates to in real world MPHs. From what I've found if I divide the table speed by 1.13 that will get me the real world MPH, or damn close. Once you've got that figured the way to decipher the upshift tables is by creating imaginary lines from each point on the table. So when you are driving, if both your speed and pedal % create a point ABOVE the imaginary lines you've drawn, this will trigger an upshift.

The opposite is for downshifts. If your speed and pedal % result in a point below the imaginary line, this will result in a downshift.

So you want 3rd gear to hold a bit long before downshifting. This means in the downshift 2-3 table you'll want to lower the imaginary lines so that there is more area above the curve than below. Here's an example I sent to @Mooseditty17 that I think explained it pretty well.

Edit: Tried to re-add the image hopefully it can be seen now

 

it's losing connection mid way through the flash.
Check that none of your OBDII pins are loose, it's a problem on this truck.

 

That's an awesome explanation. Thanks for that. Also, I can't see the image you've posted.

 

is it ok to try a different file?

 

yes, try stock

 

Super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to explain. So KPH=0.62MPH not a good conversion huh. That stinks. might end up logging a few steady pulls using S-Mode to determine seat of the pants desired shift points.

 

Yup it was not for me unfortunately.. The way I found out roughly what the speeds were is I made all of my ECT upshifts 1 speed at each gear(the lowest speed) so that regardless of how much I pushed the pedal down there was one speed I was going to shift at. I logged a short drive in techstream and then looked at what speed it shifted in to each gear. Did some maths and came out to roughly dividing by 1.13 the table numbers translated to when they actually shifted in the real world. I'm unsure if the diff gearing tables or tire sizes tables affect this though..

 

This explanation is SPOT ON! Well done sir!

 

Thank you for helping maths

 

I'll try and make this question as clear as possible:

I don’t have the time or even desire to mess with learning how to fine tune my truck via VFTuner. Maybe in the future when I have more time, but not right now. My business is shuttered due to COVID (cocktail bar) and I'm busting my ass working all kinds of jobs just to pay the bar's rent and bills, so I'm stressed enough without learning a new skill. (For now!)

I can’t seem to find a clear answer so I’m just asking, when 2.0 final is released, will I need to mess with the VF tuner to create a tune that accommodates dump tubes, or will tunes exist direct from OVTune like in the past with basically every combination that can then further be tweaked by the owner if so desired?

For instance, when 2.0 final is completely finished, I simply want a catless dump tube 4.88 premium octane gearlock non performance 33” tire 04B04 tune and I'll be happy.
Will that be an option direct from OVTune or will I need to mess with the VFTuner to tweak the tune to accommodate the dump tubes, etc?

 

checked the pins, all good. Disconnected and reconnects the battery, all good. Tried a new USB, no luck.


Going to try another tatrix cable from someone nearby

if that doesn’t work.. what’s next? Really need my truck here soon.