Tacoma clutch/rear main seal

Looking to do my clutch soon. Have a Aisin OEM kit with new flywheel bolts on the way. Plan on having my flywheel re surfaced, if it is in good enough condition. My truck has 116K, I don’t treat it nice though. My question is if it would be best to do my rear main seal while the tranny was already out, or if it isn’t leaking just leave it be. I have looked to order a seal but every time I go and find one ( even though it appears to be the right part number ( 90311-A0006), it shows a picture of the front portion of the engine not the rear. If someone could point me in the right direction with part numbers and replacement that would be helpful .

 

I would highly recommend doing the rear main, even for no other reason than preventative maintenance while the trans is out. You don't want to drop that sucker any more times than you need to, ask me how I know. Mine is an 06 and the rear main was seeping pretty steadily when I did the clutch at ~ 260k miles. (she was well maintained and highway driven). I can't help at the moment with the part itself, but I'll see if my buddy at Toyota can conform the part number for ya.

 

Also, does anyone know the part number for the pivot ball that the clutch fork goes onto? Finding ones for first gen tacos only.

 

100% do the rear main while you have it apart. Also, have you looked at the Clutch Masters hydro TOB? Gets rid of the fork and pivot ball... really nice upgrade.

 

31236-35050 is the pivot ball. At 116k, I'd leave the seal alone if it wasn't leaking. I did mine at 55k because I replaced the clutch/TOB and found it leaking. 90311-A0006 is indeed the correct P/N, it's around $40. I would suggest getting rid of the crap OEM setup and going with the Clutchmasters hydro setup. I actually have my old pivot ball if you want it for shipping cost, but it would likely be damn near the same as a new one by the time I ship it to ya.

 

New pivot ball is on the way, the old one appears to be worn down pretty well, the fork doesn’t sit super tight on it. While I was assembling the trans back together the pushrod on the slave cylinder popped out because I gave it too much angle, which resulted in my taking a bath in fluid. Got a new slave cylinder on the way and a pivot ball as well. Any identification on the old clutch? There is no numbers or markings. They used ARP bolts on everything which was a good sign, but when I went to take off the upper bell housing bolts with my 4 foot extension, there were no bolts to be seen. Appears the mechanic who did it before was very lazy. I already replaced the rear main and got the flywheel/clutch assembly on, just waiting for the pivot ball. Also forgot to mention that it already had a URD sleeve kit, but I was unaware of this so I had to remove it and put on a OEM TOB. It doesn’t appear that the shaft is worn at all, just a tiny bit of play in the bearing which appears to be normal. Also dropped a pic of the new clutch, there is no instructions for direction of the clutch, but form what I’ve seen and read the portion of the clutch that sticks out farther than the other side goes towards the transmission correct ?

 

Looks good. The clutch can only go in one way, otherwise the pressure plate won’t sit flat on the flywheel.

 

Thanks for all the help, clutch is in and feels 1000% better then whatever was in there before, the horrible grinding noise has disappeared and it feels better than ever !

 

I did mine. Was not hard. Bought the rear main seal. Not the front crank seal.
Removed the couple bolts holding on the rear main seal case. Cleaned up the mating surfaces with scotchbrite. Then installed with new RTV.
Am not looking to drop the trans again (big job with many hours) just for a $10 seal when I could've replaced it while already in there during a clutch job.
While letting the sealant sit curing for a few hours during re-installation of the drivetrain.

Installed Clutchmasters hydro TOB to eliminate squeaking factory TOB design. Removed stock pivot ball and threw into trash can.

 

For what it's worth, I saw one video, I think it was Kflo, that said the top two bell housing bolts are easier to get to from inside the cab once the console and shifter are removed.

 

definitely not. I have a 1” body lift and they still very difficult to navigate. I used about 4’ of extensions and a swivel socket and took it off from behind the transfer case lol

 

Here was my weapon of choice

 

Damn, I'll keep that in mind for when it comes time for mine! Hopefully, that won't be for a few years. Maybe by then I'll have my lift.

 

It’s much easier with a lift and a second set of hands. I’ve done them solo and it’s sketchy

 

I also used the 4' extension method.... I followed Kflo and dont remember him saying anything about through the cab....

 

Even for someone who has done clutches it's sooo much easier with 2 people under there.

find a buddy with another truck and make a deal.

 

That’s what I did as well. What’s hilarious is the person who did the clutch before me, didn’t care enough to put in those upper bell housing bolts, so I put two new ones in when I reinstalled the transmission.