Dayton Audio DSP408 /miniDSP 6x8

Edit/Update:

The Dayton Audio had a noise/whine that I couldn't overcome. I removed it, packed it up and sent it back. I then ordered a miniDSP C-DSP 6x8. No issues with whine or noise.


Any tips or tricks with this DSP? I'm putting one in my truck for a pure 3-way active system -

AudioControl LC6.1200 amp
Kenwood DMX905s

On the DSP I'll be assigning the following:

Channel 1/2 - Morel CCWR254
Channel 3/4 - Morel Tempo Ultra 692 6x9 woofer drivers
Channel 5/6 - open for future use
Channel 7/8 - JL 12 TW3-D8 (linked)

On the amp, they will be assigned:

Channel 1/2 - Morel CCWR254
Channel 3/4 - Morel Tempo Ultra 692 6x9 woofer drivers
Channel 5/6- JL 12 TW3-D8 (bridged)

Looking for advice from anyone using a DSP408 with an aftermarket head unit. I have a few technical questions (besides tuning it) -

1. How do I set the gains when not using the DSP remote for volume?

2. How many RCAs do I really need to plug into the input of the DSP from the head unit?

Thanks!

 

I have that same amp waiting to go in.

If your not going to use the DSP volume knob for sub output, just make sure all setting for EQ are flat.

If your going to use the remote knob for the 6.1200, then you want to make sure the bass knob will at max setting when setting the gain. That way when you turn up the knob to max, you are not clipping.

RCA wise, that depends on the DSP. Some can go with only two (L+R) and others can do all six channels (F+R+SUB).

 

You're going to love the amp. It is ridiculously easy to set gains with. Seriously.

 

I am actually going to run the 1.800, 6.1200, DM-810 DSP, and the 4.300 (mini amp). Running all active system.

 

holy crap lol

 

Yeah, I tend to open wallet and let the budget go out the window.

All my speakers are Focal K2. 6.5", 3", and Tweeter for front stage. 6.5" coaxial for rear doors. K2 12" sub that I hope can squeeze behind the rear seats.

 

That's awesome. I tend to start at the bottom, then work my way up to what people have been telling me for years..... LOL

 

and I have a Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX headunit to put in the dash as well.

Lets not forget sound deadening the whole truck.

 

Yeah, there's that.

I wrote out an order of operations to tune/set gains - does this look right to you?

All right, because I am pretty OCD about it, I put together an "Order of Operations" checklist to go by to mitigate me being stupid:

• Reset all head unit settings to flat/off. No crossovers, no subwoofer settings, nothing.
• Ensure all speakers are disconnected at the amp
• Connect DD-1 to Head unit RCA outputs, and get head unit max volume for 1000hz -5dB and 40hz -5dB – then average to get max overall volume
• In DSP software, match outputs to inputs (can be done ahead of time)
• Outputs 1/2 use inputs 1/2 – 1000hz -5dB test tone
• Outputs 3/4 use inputs 1/2 – 1000hz -5dB test tone
• Outputs 7/8 use inputs 3/4 - 40hz -5dB test tone
• Connect RCAs from head unit to DSP
• Connect DD1 to DSP RCA outputs and get max volume for 1000hz -5dB and 40hz -5dB – then average to get max overall volume for DSP
• Connect RCAs to amplifier
• At head unit and DSP’s max useable volume set gains on amp:
• Using a DMM set to voltage, set channels 1/2 to 12.65V as a baseline using 1000hz -5dB tone
• Using the amp’s MILC Source Clip LEDs, set channels 3/4 using 1000hz -5dB tone
• Using the amp’s MILC Source Clip LEDs, set channels 5/6 using 40hz -5dB tone
• Turn head unit volume down to minimum!
• Channels 1/2 – Morel CCWR254 Wideband
• Channel 1 – Linkwitz Riley – High Pass – 500hz Low Pass – Max – 12dB slope
• Channel 2 – Linkwitz Riley – High Pass – 500hz Low Pass – Max – 12dB slope
• Channels 3/4 – Morel Tempo Ultra 692 – 6x9 drivers
• Channel 3 – Linkeitz Riley - High Pass – 90hz – Low Pass – 2000hz – 12dB slope
• Channel 4 - Linkeitz Riley - High Pass – 90hz – Low Pass – 2000hz – 12dB slope
• Channels 7/8 – JL12TW3-D8
• Linkeitz Riley - High Pass – 20hz – Low Pass – 100hz – 12dB slope
• Fix any polarity issues
• Fine Tune Channels 1/2 gain by ear to match
• Fine tune settings in DSP

Does this look right? Am I missing anything?

 

I would check polarity first if possible. I use the following:

$30 PAC TL-PTG2 Tone Generator and Speaker Polarity Tester with RCA Cable Tester

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-TL-PTG2-Generator-Speaker-Polarity/dp/B0072LHMME/ref=sr_1_1?crid=P1RFJO8NQ96Y&dchild=1&keywords=pac+tone+generator&qid=1600698701&sprefix=PAC+tone%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZTA8XMI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as crossover settings, start where your at. I usually run the sub a 1/2 octave lower than my midbass high pass crossover point. Meaning, if I crossover my midbass at 80hz, then my sub low pass will be set at 60hz. With midbass drivers, you can use the FS measurement (HZ) and make the high pass just above that, and set it to a 24db slope. Or you can take the FS measurement and double it and put your crossover high pass at that frequency as a starting point and use a 12db slope.

The only issue with the Morel Tempo Ultra 692, is that you have the midbass woofer and tweeter on that passive crossover. So you will need to tune those components to 2khz. To bad you could not move the tweets to the CCWR254 and put the crossover there. Then you could tune the 6x9 for midbass and the high end to the 2.5 and tweet. (Thats why I am going active).

The DD-1 is a great product. I have one also. Looks like you are going "middle of the road" over SQ (0db) and SPL (-10db) on the settings.

Other than that, it all looks good. What are you using to mic the car and check acoustics in vehicle? I have a laptop and a minidsp mic to setup in the drivers seat for tuning.

 

I have the polarity checker on the way. Also, I have all the tone files on a USB.

The speakers are no longer on a passive crossover. I removed those, and am assigning each speaker to its own channel. I'm just using the 692 6x9 drivers for the midwoofers, and using the CCWR254s as the tweeters. The 692 kit's tweeters are in a box in the garage.....

As for a mic, I got the Dayton Audio mic, but I haven't even gotten to that point.

Edit to add: The FS for the CCWR254s is 112. I can't find the FS for the 6x9s. The settings are just a baseline

 

Just a suggestion....if your budget allows it.

I would get this amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACM4300/AudioControl-ACM-4-300.html?tp=35782

This will allow you to run the tweeters off of it and leave room on the table to add another set of speakers down the road if you decide to add rear fill. Then you can run an full active setup.

I would then put the 2.5" in the dash, 6x9 in the door location, and then mount your tweeter either in the bottom of the A-pillar or sail panel on the door. I think if you are going to try and run the 2.5" as tweeters your not going to be happy with the high end. Kinda like the OEM speakers in the dash.

Tweeters, set it to 32khz, and set to either 12db or 24db slope. See how it sounds.
For the 2.5", I would set the crossover at 224hz with a 12db slope. Looks like they have a capacitor at about 350hz, which will be fine (safety measure).
For the 6x9s, I would set the crossover around 90hz with a 24db slope. Are you able to set a top end frequency to cut off?
Sub, try and set it at 80hz with a 12db slope. Probably will have to play with this to get the sound you want. I usually have to.

Which Dayton Audio mic do you have? Not the little headphone jack one right?

 

I was just reviewing the AudioFrog tuning guide, and am starting to get a better understanding. I'm going to follow your recommendations for the cut offs.

I can band pass anything in the DSP software. Yeah, it's the little Dayton Audio IMM-6. I'm going to load the software on an old Samsung tablet I have.

I haven't decided whether or not I'm going to add the tweets back in or not - I have some pretty "good" tinnitus and don't get much of the extra high frequencies.

I need to put in the caps - I haven't done that as of yet.

 

That Audiofrog guide is excellent. Great info in there on where to start. I have it also.

 

If you can tune bandpass for crossovers, that would be great.

Sub, 80hz low pass. You can try 12db or 24db slope depending on how you like it. Put subsonic filter on (probably on amp) and set it to just below port tune on your sub box. If your box is sealed, you can set it lower or off.
2.5", 224hz to 3khz high pass, 24db slope.
6x9s, 90hz to 200hz w/ 24db slope
tweets, 32khz high pass with a 24db slope.

Make sure to take plenty of pics and share.

 

200 or 2000hz?

 

200, the 2.5" should start picking up from there.

 

So no overlap. Ok

 

No overlap, or you might end up boosting a frequency and then using the EQ to turn it down.

 

Ahh I see.



Working the backside now.