Dobinsons 2016-2023 Taco Suspension Options

From reading this thread and some build threads,
It looks like drive line vibration id not uncommon.
I guess it's simple enough to fix with shims.
I also noticed that the ims shock is available for smaller lifts.
If there was no plan to go over 2.5 inch of lift would you ever notice the shorter shock assembly on the front?

 

A lot of lift kits/full suspensions come with rear axle shims for this very reason.

 

Can you explain what a rear axle shim does, where it goes?

 

Since your axle will be lower relative to the truck compared to stock, the angle of the driveshaft will be sharper.

The shim is a small angled plate that goes under your rear axle to help angle it up (usually a 3 degree shim) to help the drive shaft angle be less extreme

https://4xshaft.com/products/axle-shims

 

Here is a pic of the "where it goes" part. Between the axle and the leaf pack.

 

Hey @Crikeymike is the center pin on the 110-R leafs 3/8? I have to shim and want the right pins before I take it apart.
Thanks!

 

I'm not sure sorry. You can measure the little bit that sticks out the bottom of the spring, or check the stock pin size if you still have those.

 

No problem Mike. I'll figure it out. Thanks for the reply.

 

Are you getting vibrations with the 110's and needing the shims to for correction? I have roughly 10K on my 110's and haven't had any issues.

 

I've seen some people pre-emptively buy shims, and then not need them. Almost everyone I've sold suspension to hasn't needed shims once the suspension has settled and/or once the correct weight and load is on the springs so that it's not over-lifted.

 

I have a slight decel vibration. I checked my driveshaft angles and the last one at the pinion is out of spec. A 3 degree shim would bring it back in spec. I have no acceleration vibration only on decel with or without braking. Now I am a bit OCD about it. It is a small vibe and my wife said she never felt it. I put some washers on the carrier bearing to shim it down and the vibe went away, but the real fix is to shim the axle so that last angle is good. The other angles are fine. Learned a lot about measuring drive line angles.

 

@Crikeymike After reading most of this thread, I want to give you my monies - looks like you run a great shop with awesome service.

Any chance you could confirm I'm choosing the right parts before I order?

Truck + Weight
3rd Gen Access Cab Long Bed M/T with constant weight: fiberglass shell (~200lb), prinsu-style rack on shell (maybe ~60lbs?), sleeping platform (~90lbs), steel skids (front, transmission, transfer case @ ~100lbs total), sliders (~150lbs), recovery gear (~50lbs).

Will be adding ~150lbs in the front in the next year (bumper + winch). Rear bumper when torn off.

Lift Goals
Around 2.0"-2.5" of lift in front plus more in rear to regain rake with constant weight (don't mind if rear ends up at 3" to get rake). Would like to future proof any settling/sagging too.

I'm currently level on stock suspension.

Parts to Order?
Front coils: 352?
Front shocks: 221?
Rear springs: 111-R (or 112-R for rake?)
Rear shocks: 940?
Spacer for driver's side lean
Will I need additional pair of greasable pins/bolts for leaf springs?

Thanks in advance man!

 

Hey bud, thanks for the kind words!!

C59-352 with GS59-220 will be what I'd suggest up front with the current and future weight. Access cabs come taller than dual cabs, so gotta add the taller 220 struts to gain the correct amount of lift height.

Getting into UCA territory too with that kind of height.

For the rear, L59-112-R with the rear bumper weight and to keep additional rake. Yes, 940 shocks will work great.

No, additional pins aren't needed, you can just grease up the stock bolts during assembly.

 

Thanks for the quick response!

Uh oh...was looking at 2.5" max in hopes of keeping my stock UCAs...what front setup would you recommend to stay out of UCA territory then and how much lift would it net vs. the original recommendation above? I'm assuming the same 352 coils but maybe the 221 struts, giving 1"-1.4" of lift?

Just when I thought I was close to finalizing my choice - appreciate the recommendations

 

The problem is that you don't have all the weight on there. A bumper and winch weight will drop it down at least 1/2", so you'll be riding taller until you add that weight. So do you want 2.5" before the bumper/winch, or after? If you do it "after", you'll get 3" until you add that extra weight, and 3" is where new UCA's should really be added. You can use C59-350 on GS59-220 will be 2.5" without the front added weight, and 352's would be ~3" without it, and 2.5" with it.

What's your hub to fender measurement now? Most access cabs are ~21" or so, whereas a dual cab is ~20"

 

did this thread ever get built??

 

Thanks for the info again! Sounds like I’ve got some timing/cost considerations to take into mind.

Sliders haven’t been installed yet, but I’m currently 21” on all corners except front driver’s is 20.5”. Loaded up this past weekend for only a 3 day hunt and my rear dropped ~0.5” as well - photo is only on half tank of gas left:


How many inches will the 112 leaf pack raise my rear you’d guess with my weight? I see your site listed it 2.1” at 800lbs but not sure how much extra height that gives me if I’m a tad under that.

Seriously appreciate the insight! Calling up some shops for install quotes in the meantime.

 

I have the 111s and with ~335lbs including topper I netted 2.75 inches of lift. I think they're rated for up to 800 or 880lbs static load.

 

Anyone running the twin tube shocks?