Towing To The Max

Very good info. I'd love to go over the divide to some national parks but I'm unsure with the setup I'm considering. For now, I'm just going to campgrounds around me and along the front range. I feel like with the setup I'm considering, it seems fine for short trips with low grade to no grade. Everything else is probably questionable.

 

Indeed it does. I think the wife and I are packing quite light normally. At most two chairs and clothes for a week. Food and such will be gotten after I hook up. I like where you're going. I did calculate that every 100lbs added in cargo (in the RV) equates to an additional 2% against my towing cap.

 

Make sure you show your wife every post in this thread, to see if she has a warm and fuzzy about riding with you - just saying...

 

lol...she's right here with me.

 

I appreciate ALL of the feedback everyone. I can't afford to upgrade to the Tundra BUT I am going to look at shorter/lighter trailers. Thanks for all the good info!

 

Having towed this 25 footer twice a year since 2014 isn’t bad BUT once you get pulled out in front of or need to stop in a hurry.... that becomes a cheek clinching moment and makes you think twice about how many people around you don’t give 2 shits what you’re towing or why you’re driving the speed limit with caution ..... but once you’re at your destination it’s all good!

 

If I were to do it over again, I’d go smaller/lighter. I don’t want a full size truck

 

Here’s another stat to check if it hasn’t been mentioned yet:

555 tongue weight
200 wdh weight
360 occupants weight

1115 lbs total for payload. Most OR DCSB trucks come with a payload of 950-1000 lb depending on accessories.

The math on if, and how much, a wdh puts weight back on the trailer is unclear. Most of the effect is transferring weight to the front TV axle rather than back onto the trailer.

If the above holds, you’ll be above payload capacity. Personally, I’d be ok at/near/slightly over payload than I would be with pushing GCVWR to the max. I’d rather see 100 over payload and 80% max tow than 95% of each.

 

I was about to ask this question and you answered it. Good advice!

 

Thank you. So many people come here looking for justification of their ideas and when we tell them it's really not a good idea, they think they know better than all of us... combined!
On something like this, safety should be the number one goal. In this case a bigger truck or a lighter load are the two solutions. Either choice works and now we don't have to worry. Let us know what you choose and don't go over 4500 lb fully wet lol. The truck does fine between 3500-4500 lb.

 

OP, you state “100lbs random cargo“. My experience is more like 1,000 lbs. 100 lbs barely covers dishes, clothes, food, etc. I add in 3-4 bikes, outdoor chairs, tables, lights, hammock, sleeping bags, mini bike, games, firewood, etc., etc., etc.

I weighed my trailer recently, fully loaded at 2,200 lbs (axle) plus tongue weight (maybe 300?) for a total of 2,500 plus maybe 800 lbs of people and gear in the truck for a grand total of 3,300 lbs. My truck tows this pretty well with many miles in the Sierras in 3rd gear wound tight.

 

Check out some light weight trailers. Our set up comes in at about 75%

 

Thats a beaut. That will be my next trailer in 5 years, they build them a few hours away from my place.

But even that lightweight fibreglass Escape, I’ll be buying an F-150 V8 (currently my work truck) when it gets returned to the lease company. I like to be 50% of the rated capacity max.

 

We put in our deposit a couple months ago for an Escape 19. Delivery date of March 2021. Apparently demand has skyrocketed so high that they're currently out to September or November of 2021 reservations. Totally crazy and glad we got our order in when we did. Now I just gotta get our NoBo sold!

 

Should focus more on keeping a safe following distance and space on your sides instead of keeping up with traffic.

 

Yeah, because nobody ever pulls out in front of you or cuts you off. Especially when towing a trailer and leaving a larger than normal gap.

 

In reality, you're both right. With 5,000lbs+ you need to keep LOTS of room in front of you. That said, you can't stop a jackhole from using all that room as an invitation to change lanes in front of you. Unfortunately we always have to deal with this if we're driving a Fiat or an 18 wheeler.

 

At that weight you are way over GVWR. No matter what you dream the weight is you must pull the truck and trailer onto a truck scale (2 or 3 segment) and get total weight (GVWR). Drop the trailer on 1 segment and the trailer tongue on another and pull the truck off to get trailer and tongue it will amaze you the real tongue weight. Trailer sticker is with it empty and no battery, propane, water gray or black waste, no dishes , camping gear, clothes, bikes, etc so that's another 1000-1500 lbs. Need a good trailer brake as not only helps stop you can tap it alone to stop sway/wag after big rigs pass. I towed a 5600 lb stickered trailer and it weighted out at 6500 so I was overweight. Gas mileage drops to 8-10 and 6 up big grades in 3rd. Tow in 4th only can't use 5th (D) as it will bog down. Been there done that and got rid of it after 1 year - too heavy and actually in lots of smaller nat/state parks hard to fit the thing into the nice shady spots. Get a 17-20 ft bunkhouse trailer sleeps 2 in master and 2 bunks and if another kid use the dinnette bed. Stay at 3500 lb sticker but still weigh it before buying as the stickers and dealers all are not right - they will sell you anything you want ha ha. Finally that weight destroyed my rear diff and bearings. If stock springs they will bottom out so plan on a new set of heavy duty ones and shocks. Then the 2 piece driveline will self destruct at some point at that weight also.

Bottom line is you can do it but will soon regret it. After your first panic stop you will need new underware at that weight at least. If your heart is set on that beast and you have money the trailer sales guy will love you when you try and trade it in as they will royally screw you. You been warned. Been there done that.
Plus I did it with the 4.0 engine in 2 gen that pulls better.

 

Good info for sure. Just for accuracy though, the GVWR of my Tacoma for the original setup I considered would be 95% of max, not "way over". The GVWR for the trailer I originally considered would be very close to dry weight -/+ 150lbs. We pack light and bring nothing with us other than some electronics and a 6lb dog. (no kayaks, bikes, etc).

For clarity, here was the original numbers (Surveyor Legend 252RBLE) for which I'm now looking at a lighter trailer.

Tacoma Payload weight = 1,115lbs (95% of GVWR)
Tongue weight = 755lbs (before weight distribution (subtract ~20%)
Tow weight = 5,168lbs (80% of max)

Another smaller trailer (Explorer R-POD RP-202) I'm now considering has the following numbers:

Tacoma Payload weight = 945lbs (80% of GVWR)
Tongue weight = 685lbs (before weight distribution (subtract ~20%)
Tow weight = 4,574lbs (71% of max)

 

Sorry but you are calculating yourself into trouble but I wish you good luck and good travels.
I see 26-28 ft trailers behind Tacomas and always say glad that's not me anymore!
Start at 3000-3500 lb empty trailer. Bigger is not better, shorter and lighter wins here.

GVWR = 5600 truck and payload with people/pets/cargo
GCWR = 11360 that is total of everything/all of you as you drive away
Tongue load = 640 which will be sag city even 20% lower without better springs
Add all the stuff and over weight you go!

See:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-tacoma-towing-bible.4031/